Conduct a store visit market research: when, where and how?

#Christine Tsui Fashion Community Group Discussion#

How to conduct a market research on physical fashion stores?

Date:07/06/2018

Time: 8pm to 10pm

Host by Amin-Shenzhen-Handbag designer

Amin is a handbag designer with five years working experience in fashion industry, four years of which in online fashion brands.
The following discussions are from the participants. They do not represent any views from Christine Tsui.

 

Pic from internet 

 

FORWARD

Store visit is an useful market research method to know about the business in a physical store as well as a technique to figure out consumer behavior.

 

DISCUSSION OUTLINE 

1. Preparation before market research

2. How to decide when and where to conduct market research?

3. What are the focuses in fashion store visit?

4. Conclusion

PART ONE Preparation before market research 

a. Research Objectives

1. Know about the operation situation of stores, including but not limited to sales performance, shopping atmosphere, and service experience.2. Know about competitors; Figure out the operation situation of competitors; Know about the products of competitors (categories, sewing techniques, patterns, etc.).

3. Figure out consumer preferences and buying power.

4. Verify the problems shown in the reports.

b. Research Team

 
Conducting a market research by store visit need both physical power and mental power. The focuses of this kind of market research vary from research teams. 

Macy’s group store visit (Pic from internet)

 

What kind of people would be involved in a market research team in terms of different research objectives? 

A market research team may consist of designers, pattern makers, merchandisers, sales and so on. Sometimes, all of them are from different departments, while they are from the same department more often.

c. Research Objects

 
According to different market research objectives, the research objects are correspondingly different. Stores of brands as well as their competitors are usually chose as the research objects. Also, products in different styles can be the research objects.

PART TWO How to decide when and where to conduct market research?  

Store visit would be conducted at different time in terms of different research objectives. For example, at the beginning of the season, the sales performance is the main research object, while at the end of the season, the unsalable is the focus of market research.

Gucci in different location and time (Pic from internet)

 

a. WHEN

Discussion shown as below

 

Tina- Xiamen-AGL
We always firstly talk with store managers to know about the peak time in stores, then come and observe stores at the peak time.
Ye Fangben-Nanchang-Shopowner
The best time to visit a street store and a store in shopping mall are different. The peak time are from 10:00 am to 11:30 am, from 4 pm to 06:30 pm, and from 7: 30 pm to 9: 00 pm.Amin- Shenzhen-AGL 
In working days especially at afternoon, there are less consumers in stores than usual. Thus visiting stores during these period is mainly for products researchWhen visiting stores at evenings or weekend, the research team will pay more attention to the sales performance.

Tina- Xiamen-AGL

Market research on store sales performance is best conducted in weekend. Because sales performance in weekend reflects on the real consumption power.

b. WHERE

 

(Pic from internet)

Sales performance in stores of the same brand but located at different business circles may be different. For example, there would be a number of consumers walking into stores in mid-range department stores while there are less consumers in stores located at top grade shopping malls. To gain a comprehensive market research result, the research team should visit and observe stores located at different areas.

PART THREE What are the focuses in fashion store visit? 

1. Store location

2. Store area

3. Store construction style

4. Customer service

5. Amount of merchandises

6. Visual merchandising

7. The proportion of new arrivals

8. The proportion of seasonal products

9. The proportion of discounted products

10. Consumer traffic

11. The dress up of consumers

12. Sales turnover

PART FOUR CONCLUSION 

Store visit is an important and necessary market research method to know the consumer as well as business situation in fashion industry. In terms of different departments, research focuses vary from store area, store location, visual merchandising, category merchandising, customer service, promotion and so on. Moreover, results from store visit market research conducted at different time would reflect various problem.

 

What is color planning in design development?

 

#Christine Tsui Fashion Community Group Discussion#

What is color planning in design development?

 

Date:07/06/2018

Time: 8pm to 10pm

Host by Sophia-Hangzhou-Fashion Design Consultant

Sophia was major in apparel engineering and now serves a consulting firm that focuses on fashion industry. She is working on promoting the new retailing mode combined with aesthetics.

 

 The outline of discussion:

 

  1. What is design style?
  2. What problems do apparel companies encounter in design development?

3.The importance of color planning

  1. Brands with good color-planning
  2. Conclusion

 

 

FOREWORD

The designs of style and color are based on a rigorous theoretical system. It is a fluke to succeed in designing a best-selling dress by designers’ own feelings while most of them are failed, especially when seasons, trends, and consumer preference are changing. Thus, it is important for designers to understand what is design style and how to manage color in design development.

 

PART ONE What is design style?

 

Words to describe style:

Urban, elegant, natural, romantic, refreshing, personality, classical, modern, elegant, gorgeous, dramatic, lovely.

 

Words that can not accurately describe style:

Simple, fashionable, retro, British, classic.

 

PART TWO What problems do apparel companies encounter in design development? 

 

  1. A bad color planning may result in many changes even risks in the process of product development.
  2. How to utilize trendy elements to develop innovative designs in keeping with brand image?
  3. How can buying team choose products in keeping with brand style?

 

PART THREE The importance of color planning

The style of design is determined by color, shape, and quality of fabric. Color is the most important element in design development.  A well-planned color design can solve more than 50% of the problems in design development. Only considering the style and quality will enable design development more difficult.

 

PART FOUR Brands with good color planning 

Discussion shown as below

 

Wiiliam-Jeweler-Student
I think the colors of MOSCHINO are always uniform. Italian brands have put a lot of effort on keeping color adapted to design style. They use cartoon pattern prints and warm color blocks to create exaggerated and vivid style and brand image. D & G and Versace are two examples.

 

Sophia-hangzhou- Fashion Design Consultant

I would say Max Mara and domestic brands such as ICICLE and Mo & Co. These brands do well in color planning because their colors are consistent with brand positions and can meet the demands of target consumers.

 

Yuan Liu -Shanghai-Designer

I think Gucci also does a good job. Its color is always strong but not abrupt. Also, the unique color style enables Gucci easily recognized.

 

PART FIVE CONCLUSION

Commercial design development should be based on the requirements of consumers. Designers should be both sensual and rational.

Every trendy element could be utilized to develop innovative design so long as it can be in keeping with brand image.

A well-planned color design can solve more than 50% of the problems in design development. Only considering the style and quality will enable design development more difficult.

The current situation and development of Chinese street fashion brands

 

#Christine Tsui Fashion Community Group Discussion#

The current situation and development of Chinese street fashion brands

 

Date:05/05/2018

Time: 8pm to 10pm

Host by Qiuyu-Shanghai-AGL Jiaxi-Beijing-AGL

 

 The outline of discussion:

 

1. The definition of Chinese street fashion brands

2. The early Chinese street fashion brands

3. The rising Chinese street fashion brands

4. Conclusion

 

 

FOREWORD

In recent years, Chinese street fashion brands have become the consumption hotspots indirectly caused by the following reasons.

  1. The preference of the younger generation is quickly changing
  2. Cultural communication between the international community has been more frequently.
  3. The influence of KOLs is boosting.
  4. The variety of shows such as “Hip-hop in China” and “This is Street Dance” are promoting street culture.

During the Shanghai Fashion Week, the market research company Nielsen and OFashion released the world’s first big data research on street fashion brands and users analysis report. The data shows that the growth rate of street fashion brands consumption is 3.7 times than that of normal fashion brands. Post-90s and Post-95s are the main consumers. The proportion of Post-95s of the street fashion brands consumers has gradually climbed to 25%. Among them, the top 10% of the ashes users accounted for 60% to 80% of the total personal expenditure, accounting for 48% of the whole street fashion brands market.

At present, the potential market of street fashion brands has been paid more attention by people. The mining and development of local street culture has gradually become a commercial hot spot. Guan Jian, the person in charge of Tmall, mentioned in an interview that the program “This! is Street Dance” has been planned two years ago. The idea of this program came from the result of Ali Big Data on consumer insight. In the past three years, the sales volume of street fashion brands on Tmall has increased to 106% times of before. The data has already shown the shopping trend. Obviously, street fashion brands are the next hot spots.

This discussion would discuss the current situation and future development of the Chinese street fashion brands. At the same time, I would like to learn the evaluation and suggestions on the development of Chinese street fashion brands from all of you.

PART ONE The definition of Chinese street fashion brands

 

I have not found a clear definition of “Chinese Street Fashion” in authoritative materials, but I have compiled a more directional concept from most media articles and reports, which is namely: “Chinese Street Fashion” can be said to be “the street fashion brands of China”. They have their own design, and promotes designers’ unique ideological character, style and life attitude.

CLOT is the earliest independent designer brand that we can think of. It was founded in June 2003 by Hong Kong famous artist Edison Chen. In 2009, Li Chen and Pan Yibo collaborated in the street fashion brand, NPC.

From 2011 to 2014, many brands with the banner of “Chinese street fashion” entered into the market with lack of industry norms and related standards. The design and originality of “Chinese street fashion” has become a topic of discussion. Although the Chinese street fashion brands have been developing in recent years, the demands from the younger generation has increased. Due to the inequality of regional resources, JUCIE, DOE and other domestic and offline well-known entities are almost in the market. In 2017, the turnover of the online Chinese street fashion stores in the Double Eleven Taobao Festival reached nearly 400 million RMB.

 

PART TWO The early Chinese street fashion brands

 

According to YOHO!’s consumer portraits, the group of 18-22 years old accounted for 51%. As Chen Anqi claims, these people having money and being able to contribute to sales traffic, will make Chinese street fashion to be very popular. However, the taste of young people is always changing. The “Chinese street fashion” is a market with extremely fast development and changes. If the brand is unable to build strong relationships and viscosities with consumers, there is no guarantee of continued profitability.

PART THREE The rising Chinese street fashion brands

 

The younger generation of consumers who have grown up with the prevalence of consumerism are even more eager to “live in the moment and be happy in time.” They pursue recognition, pursuit of interesting ideas and original designs. Nowadays, the tier categories of Chinese street fashion brands are becoming more and more obvious. In addition to CLOT, PHANTACI, NPC, ANB BRAND, ATTEMPT, FMACM, RANDOMEVENT are also popular in the first tier. MISTER UNINVITED, COC CUBE and 714 STREET, WASSUP are the representatives of the mass market brands with affordable price.

 

PART FOUR Conclusion

From the perspective of the market: from 2012 to 2016, the growth rate of global apparel consumption is about 3% to 4%, while the growth rate of fashion brands is around 25%. China’s GDP accounts for 15% of the world. However, the consumption of China’s fashion brands account for only 2% to 3% of the world. Therefore, it can be found that regardless of the growth rate or the proportion of consumption, the Chinese street fashion brand is still a huge market.

Although the market is fast developing, the public is pursuing the speed of output and consumption. I believe that brand is not a tool to make money, but a carrier of personal expression. Consumers and brands need to infiltrate and influence each other. The products and culture behind them are the core competence of brand development. Consumers need to give time for Chinese street fashion brands to grow up. At the same time, the Chinese street fashion brands also needs to down-to-earth to make products with conscience. At present, there are still differences in regional development of Chinese street fashion brands. We are looking forward to the well-developed Chinese street culture in the future.

 

Internationalization of Local high-end fashion brand

 

#Christine Tsui Fashion Community Group Discussion#

Internationalization of

Local high-end fashion brand

 

Date:16/06/2018

Time: 8pm to 10pm

Host by Maggie-Manchester-student

1 Bachelor degree of Economy in China

2 Studying international fashion retailing in University of Manchester for master degree.

 

 The outline of discussion:

 

1. How many Chinese high-end fashion brands do you know?

1.1 What’s the features of them?

2. The development status and potential problems in Internationalization for Chinese high-end fashion brands?

3. Strategy

3.1 How to help local high-end fashion brand become worldwide accepted?

3.2 Are there any successful examples of Chinese high-end fashion brands?

3. Conclusion

 

 

FOREWORD

China is a large luxury products consumption country, but for the whole fashion industry, market of China is still a young market. We often focus on luxury brand from Italy, France even UK, but Chinese consumers tend to focus less on Chinese high-end fashion brand. To be honest, my dream is to help more local Chinese fashion brands become famous worldwide. So the topic appears in my mind. The topic is about internationalization of Chinese high-end fashion brand.

 

PART ONE: How many Chinese high-end fashion brands do you know?

 

discussion:

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

uma wang.

 

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

Jorya.

 

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

Guo pei.

 

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

rose studio.

 

Maggie-Manchester-student

huishan Zhang.

 

  • What’s the features of them?

high price, craftsmanship, good material quality, prestige.

 

Designers of some Chinese high-end brand has overseas background, they have advantage of combining west features to eastern culture.

 

Discussion:

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

It is their prestige.

 

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

Price is high.

 

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

high price

 

Maggie-Manchester-student

Yes, price needs to be considered in the definition.

 

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

quality is not as good as luxury brands are so commercial now.

 

Maggie-Manchester-student

Craftsmanship.

 

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

But is it becoming less?

 

Maggie-Manchester-student

Craftsmanship is still essential and it is a representative of quality and heritage of culture.

 

Christy-Canada-marketing

Since high-end brand stresses prestige, its target consumers should be elite rather than middle class.

 

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

aim for middle class also.

 

Christy-Canada-marketing

Hermes is a good example for delivering craftsmanship notion.

 

Maggie-Manchester-student

Elite is the target customer, but middle class has contributed a lot of consumption.

 

Maggie-Manchester-student

yes, Hermes can stand for craftsmanship with high level of price.

 

Christy-Canada-marketing

I don’t think middle class is a right group here in China. They still focus more on how trendy a brand is while ignoring the crafts behind that.

 

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

what ab the scarcity?

 

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

material quality. Craftsmanship.

 

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

There really no scarcity left unless Kelly bag.

 

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

I think many of the high-end brands are independent designer brands?

 

Maggie-Manchester-student

Most of them are designer brands at the beginning.

 

 

PART TWO: The development status and potential problems in Internationalization for Chinese high-end fashion brands?

 

Design and quality of products still have problems for Chinese brand.

Chinese fashion market is very young. The maturity and experience of the entire industry still have a gap when compared with overseas.

 

Discussion:

Christy-Canada-marketing

I think the issue is that how to create a Chinese brand that can be understood and accepted by western society’s.

 

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

It is about time and product.

 

Maggie-Manchester-student

Yes, it is good point. There still exist culture differences.

 

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

those Japanese ones started earlier than us.

 

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

our product also especially fitting.

 

Christy-Canada-marketing

Too many counterfeits make people question the ability of creation in China.

 

Maggie-Manchester-student

Chinese fashion market is very young. The maturity and experience of the entire industry still have a gap when compared with overseas. But because it’s very young, it has a lot of possibilities.

 

Maggie-Manchester-student

Now we can ask ourselves a question, if you pay for a leather bag with a high level of price, will you choose a Chinese brand or an Italian brand?

 

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

I think it really depends on how it looks.

 

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

our leather aint that good.

 

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

and quality.

 

Maggie-Manchester-student

I think the answer is in your mind.

 

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

if both brands are not well known and both are made in Italy then it goes to design.

 

Maggie-Manchester-student

We usually from the perspective of retailers, but we are also consumers. I really love my country, but at that moment I hesitated to make a decision.

 

Christy-Canada-marketing

True~ we are not willing to spend time training people and use the real good stuff.

 

Maggie-Manchester-student

I recommended Chinese brands to my family and friends, but when I met the question, I will consider brand, quality even the design whether suitable for me.

 

Christy-Canada-marketing

And consistence.

 

Mel-christchurch-student

I can’t see what’s the problem…I’d say there are some good Italian stuff for sure just…this country is basically famous for luxury and of course prosciutto.

 

Christy-Canada-marketing

They got history.

 

Julie~Shanghai~High-end retail

I have visited a showroom of Chinese designers this week, what has impressed me is that for bags, even the price and design is similar, the material and craftsmanship is of lower quality compared to made in Italy brands.

 

Mel-christchurch-student

Just like when you wanna but a really good watch you’ll think Belgium firstly pretty much all the time.

 

Julie~Shanghai~High-end retail 14:05

Jewelry pass but when talking about bags… sad to say but china made is out of my choice for accessible luxury level brands.

 

Mel-christchurch-student

This question is like if you wanna eat sushi what restaurant you wanna go Chinese chef one or Japanese chef one?

 

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

our leather here just not as good.

 

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

good ones are from like Spain.

 

Christy-Canada-marketing

So for developing Chinese brand, we should target more on younger generation since they are more open minded, more easily to change their preference.

 

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

Maybe that’s really related to our mindset towards a certain category.

 

Maggie-Manchester-student

design and quality of products still have problems for Chinese brand.

 

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

It’s a cultural and geographical issue?

 

Julie~Shanghai~High-end retail

yeah, chat with some made in Italy foreign brands, the level is like this, Italy made is better than Spanish made for European consumers.

 

Ari-Melbourne-Master of fashion

Yeah,I think cultural is a big problem .

 

Maggie-Manchester-student

Regardless of the origin of a brand, there must be quality and design to support the brand, so that it can create a good word-of-mouth.

 

Julie~Shanghai~High-end retail

agree, quality and design are essential elements.

 

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

yeah that’s what we lack of,a typical well-known element/design.

 

PART THREE: Strategy

 

3.1How to help local high-end fashion brand become worldwide accepted?

A brand should have its own story

Commercialize your product

To be a world-class company

World-class design, sourcing and branding

Promotion strategy: celebrity endorsement, brand cooperation, hungry strategy

Gain more exposure on media

 

Discussion:

How to help local high-end fashion brand become worldwide accepted?

 

Ari~Melbourne-Master of fashion

First as a brand should has it own story.

 

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

to be a worldclass company.

 

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

worldclass design, sourcing and branding.

 

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

gain more exposure on media.

 

Maggie-Manchester-student

culture background supported.

 

Maggie-Manchester-student

Brand and marketing communications are quite essential.

 

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

may not necessary has to be strong cultural supported.

 

Maggie-Manchester-student

culture will be a factor to influence a brand.

 

Maggie-Manchester-student

just like a background behind a brand.

 

Julie~Shanghai~High-end retail

I think sometimes culture could be negative for a brand to be accepted worldwide.

 

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

the background not necessary has to have strong cultural influence.

 

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

So meaning a luxury brand does not have to have strong national or ethnic culture.

 

Christy-Canada-marketing

But for Chinese brand to expand overseas, this is our selling point

 

Julie~Shanghai~High-end retail

not everyone like Chinese culture element. Just the brand origin is enough. Too much culture telling could be helpful or negative, could be risky.

 

Maggie-Manchester-student

We do not deny that culture is two-sided, but how can we rationally use culture for Chinese brands?

 

Julie~Shanghai~High-end retail

A successful example i can think of is La maison kitsune, French-Japanese crossed. Japanese culture story of fox helps this brand.

 

Christy-Canada-marketing

Maybe the cultural things could be a start point and then we could give more notions that are accepted worldwide

 

Julie~Shanghai~High-end retail

but yes, culture telling is not necessary.

 

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

in order to be a global brand u actually have to commercialize your product to fit the taste of everyone.

 

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

and that can be dangerous.

 

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

cause u risk losing your identity.

 

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

like michael kors is an example.

 

Hannah-Beijing-BD

coach also?

 

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

coach is a bit different, coach is less identity. Ever since the day they start their big plans

which is when Sara lee gave up.

 

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

michael kors commercialized rather than upgraded.

 

Maggie-Manchester-student

How to help local high-end fashion brand become worldwide accepted? what do you think of celebrity endorsement and brand cooperation?

 

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

Well-known ones like charlize theorem.

 

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

Their promotion could be very helpful

 

Maggie-Manchester-student

what about brand cooperation, cross-border cooperation is also popular.

 

Christy-Canada-marketing

Influencer is so important now. Think about Kanye’s marketing strategy. As I know, he always invites celebrities or influencers to wear his clothes and shoes before selling them, and also he uses hunger strategy, which arouse people’s desire to get one.

 

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

Very frequent nowadays,such as recent Xuweizhou and Coach

 

 

3.2 Are there any successful examples?

A successful example is Angel Chen.

In foreign channels, brand focuses on quality and location of the stores. Angel Chen has already cooperated with channels like LuisaViaRoma in Italy, Selfridges in London.

While in China Angel Chen cooperates with Lane Crawford and IT

 

PART FOUR: Conclusion

 

Chinese high-end fashion brands with features of high price, craftsmanship, good material quality and prestige. Because fashion market of China is still a young market, there still exist potential problems in Internationalization for Chinese high-end fashion brands. For example, design and quality of products still have problems for Chinese brand. In order to help local high-end fashion brands become worldwide accepted, it is essential to build brand story, commercialize your product, to be a world-class company, to have world-class design, sourcing and branding. Also promotion strategy is needed with celebrity endorsement, brand cooperation, hungry strategy and gain more exposure on media

Mass Customization in garment industry

Christine Tsui Fashion Community

Mass Customization in garment industry

 

Date:23/06/2018

Time: 8pm to 10pm

Host by Yutong-Shanghai-Donghua University

The outline of discussion:

Q1.What is Mass customization.

  1. Characteristics and current situation of Customization.
  2. Characteristics and current situation of Mass Production.
  3. Characteristics of Mass customization.

Q2. The current situation of Mass customization in Garment Industry.

  1. Mass customization in garment enterprises.
  2. Market size of mass customization?

Q3. Limitations of Mass customization in Garment Industry.

FOREWORD

With the increasing individual preferences and multiple demands of clothing consumers, mass customization has gradually become a business model for manufacturers or brand companies to improve their market competitiveness. Mass customization refers to the low cost, high efficiency and high quality basic production mode of providing products and services by mass production. Consumers use the price of large-scale production to obtain personalized products, so enterprises have gained competitive advantage.

On the basis of basic production line, mass customization utilizes advanced manufacturing technology and information technology to integrate enterprise, customer, supplier, service provider and environment, so as to realize the whole upgrade and optimization of production mode. This discussion focuses on the history, current situation and development of Mass Customization in garment industry.

PART ONE: What is Mass Customization

 

Mass customization, as its name implies, refers to two abilities: Mass and Customization. Large-scale refers to the mass production line, when customization refers to the customization of personalized elements. For a long time, mass production and personalized customization are a pair of contradictions, until the production entered the era of modularization, this contradiction can be resolved, efficient personalized production can be achieved. There was the birth of the “mass customization”. Therefore, when discussing mass customization, we need to consider “the characteristics of personalized customization” and “the characteristics of mass production” at the same time.

 

1. Characteristics and current situation of Customization.

Personalized customization is that the user is involved in the production process of the product. It also refers that the specified elements are configured to the specified product, and the user obtains the goods with strong personal attributes or the products or services (Source: MBALib) that meet their particular needs. In the garment industry, the custom category has gradually expanded, in addition to the dress customization, suit customization, T-shirt customization, team clothing and other team clothing also have custom demand. The common customization demands are about designs, styles, fabric, details.

At the same time, according to the degree of customization, personalized customization can be categorized into local customization and full customization. Take a suit as an example. Semi-custom (Made-To-Measure), refers to that the guest select a set of ready-to-wear model when tailors are responsible for make it more fit with the guest body shape; Full-custom (Bespoke) refers to the tailor-made according to the size of the customer to make a full fit of the shape of the format, which is also known as “tailored suit.” In the mass customization projects mentioned below, different companies will use different degrees of customization to carry out mass customization business in terms of different business needs, operating costs, strategic planning and so on.

 

2. Characteristics and current situation of Mass Production.

Mass production refers to the large number of products, fixed workplace, certain production rhythm (Time between two products one after another in assembly line production) .(Source: MBALib).

But in today’s clothing industry environment, these characteristics to a certain extent limited the development of enterprises. Smaller order scale weakens the low cost advantage of mass production. Differences between orders are getting bigger so that production planning is getting more difficult. Meanwhile, the customer’s demand is changeable. A great deal of time is wasted in communication, the rate of production reaction is reduced, or because the difficulty of recruitment increases (such as Guangdong, Fujian, Zhejiang and other areas), young people are not willing to enter garment factories, and the mobility rate of workers greatly affects the quality and efficiency of fluid work; In addition, the stock overstock risk and pressure also make the rapid return mode or become the development opportunity of garment enterprises.

 

3. Characteristics of Mass customization.

Mass customization is the production mode that achieves personalized customization in the way of mass production. Although it involves the personalized requirements, the basic requirements of its realization is the similarity and generality of the product structure, that is to say, the parts of the product family customized on the same pipeline need to be similar to each other. On this basis, through cloud computing, Internet of things, Internet, information and industrialization and other technologies, to achieve the intelligent manufacturing of customized products. In the garment industry, it mainly refers to the personalized customization platform where the customer directly faces the manufacturer, the consumer directly sends the order to the factory and cancels the intermediate agency link, so its cycle can be greatly shortened.

Comparing the characteristics of mass customization (MC) with that of mass production (MP), we can find that MC is guided by information instead of operation line in production process, workers drive themselves and govern themselves; on output, MC gets personalized products. Enterprises hold almost zero inventory of products, only hold a small amount of raw material inventory; profit model, MP from the traditional economies of scale evolved into a payoff or pay-as-you-go. These characteristics to a certain extent solve the limitations of large-scale production in garment enterprises.

PART TWO: The current situation of Mass customization in Garment Industry.

There have been cases of mass customization in foreign countries, such as Nike id, which can be used for reference by clothing category, but there are also some differences. Shoes vary in size, but the same size can be worn by different people, while the same figures are difficult to find, so clothing categories may have higher requirements when dealing with returns. In recent years, there are also a number of traditional garment enterprises who have transformed to mass customization business, including Shandong red-collar, YiBangRen, BaoXiNiao and so on.

PART THREE: Limitations of Mass customization in Garment Industry.

Although there are some advantages of mass customization, it still has many limitations. From the point of view of market, compared with the traditional mass production of ready-to-wear, personalized customization is still a segment of the market. The brand has more uncertainty on the way to the customization business. From the point of view of production mode, there are questions about the way to collect figure data and the quality of data. The category of mass customization on the same assembly line is single, and the business scale of enterprises is limited. Expanding the category relies more on owning multiple factories or outsourcing to other manufacturers that also have mass customization capabilities; men’s wear is simpler and less varied than women’s, making it easier to carry out mass customization. In the mass customization of women’s wear, it is worth exploring how to make use of the production line to fully meet the changing individual needs of women. In addition, in the production process of intelligent upgrading, software development quality and cost coordination, and so on, are the factors that enterprises need to consider before the transformation.

 

 

 

How to design a collection for a clothing brand?

 

#Christine Tsui Fashion Community Group Discussion#

How to design a collection for a clothing brand?

 

Date:07/07/2018

Time: 8pm to 10pm

Host by Estelle Feng-Shanghai-Fashion designer

Graduated from the Tianjin Academy of Fine Arts, major in fashion design. Studied at ÉCOLE SUPÉRIEURE D’ART DE TOURCOING and ESMOD PARIS; Served the newly established domestic brands “ La Vaste Mer ”; US Target brand “ KNOX ROSE ” “ MOSS BLACK ” .

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 The outline of discussion:

1. As a designer of a brand company or as a designer of a new brand, how to develop a clothing collection?

2. How to do the research?

2.1 Use of Tools?

Trend tools such as WGSN VOGUE POP … +(If you are designing for a brand exist for a while, have to understand  his history /brand identity)

2.2 If you design for a new brand?

(Have to understand the position of this brand,  and understand the clients of this brands, what they want to buy)

3. The design process

3.1 How to find the source of inspiration?

3.2 How to refine the style you want?

3.3 how to create CADs? (30min)

4. Conclusion

 

 

FOREWORD

In fashion industry, the very beginning is fashion designers. They have to consider which style should develop for this season, what kind of stories we going to tell customers, how can we balance the price and quality/good looking… too much work actually for fashion designers…

 

PART ONE: How to develop a clothing collection?

 

Karen Shanghai Merch Planning

Think in customer’s shoes + investigate the market trend. Refer to the like brand (if this company has) historical archived designs…

 

Derek Shanghai PM

Study and understand the brand DNA, and market trend

 

Queena DAI

In company, to develop a new collection, maybe need to get guideline of this season from merchandising planning department

 

Derek Shanghai PM

Actual before design, normally we will have merchandise category assortment plan and brief to design team

 

PART TWO: How to do the researches?

 

Research is very important part for fashion design, we cannot just draw whatever you feel is good, we have to do a lot of researches to make sure we are doing is in right way. Research is an essential part of the fashion design process. Whether you are designing for a brand or you’re putting together a portfolio to apply to design school, research is not optional.

 

Natalie~Xiamen~Analyst

Market research

 

Queena DAI

Get some trend from the website like WGSN/Analysis your customer.

 

Valeria-Seoul-postgraduatestudy

FuckingYoung website. Lots of brands look books there

 

2.1 For a brand excite a while?

 

Derek Shanghai PM

For a brand exist for a while, they have exist silhouettes, just need some new, many can be kept, actually we devided the styles to be essential/core/fashion, each segment we have the sku ratio during planning, each segement goes to different type of store to reach the different level target consumers.

 

2.2 If you design for a new brand?

 

Derek Shanghai PM

Designer need to understand who the target consumer is, why this new brand was created, what this new brand want to express, then designer can find the suitable theme for design to build the brand identity in the market.

 

Estelle Feng

For new brand, we can start with 4 questions~

a) What identity do I want this clothing brand to project?

b) Who will want to wear my clothes?

c) What can customers get from my clothing brand that they can’t get anywhere else?

d) What makes my clothing unique?

Estelle Feng

For new brand, I will use brand La Vaste Mer for explanations. This is a complete new brand, when customer first came to me, he doesn’t have that much ideas.  he told me he wants a swimwear brand for younger generations, and plan use Tmall (China) AliExpress(overseas) eBay(overseas) this kind of e-commerce website to sell his products in China and overseas. With prices around $20-50.

 

Spring–Guangzhou–buyer Brand spirit;

Target consumer; uniqueness.

 

Estelle Feng

Then we should to think about what identity do I want this clothing brand to project.

The brand named “La Vaste Mer”, this is French name, means the vast sea in English. What I think is French chic and blue ocean … very relaxing and comfortable with French chic style swimsuits …French typical colors … red blue and white 🇫🇷…

We remember this kind of environment, always helpful when we are designing.

 

Estelle Feng

But who will want to wear my clothes? So we can set ages range; price range and any things else you want to clarify.

 

Estelle Feng

What can customers get from my clothing brand that they can’t get anywhere else?

For La Vaste Mer, they have swimwear fabric factory background, so the advantage is they are really familiar with swimwear fabric development, they can lower the cost of fabric etc…and they used be production firm for Europe and American brands. They need now is design team. So they have unrestricted fabric choices, we and choose colors we like and design fabric print as well.

So this collection can be cheaper than independent designers brand, have unique fabrics, and better designs compare with other cheap swimwear brand.

 

PART THREE: The design process

 

3.1 How to find the source of inspiration?

 

Estelle Feng

Inspiration can be everything ~Needs be stuff that inspires you. A pic, a song, a smell, a poem. All those could inspire you to design.

 

Derek Shanghai PM

The import part is how you use material and execution on the products to express the inspiration.

 

Spring–GuangZhou–buyer

As for me, The source of inspiration, mainly depends on the individual, even if society is impetuous.

 

 

3.2 How to refine the style you want?

 

Natalie~Xiamen~Analyst

First of all need to know or list all the styles in the market

 

Derek Shanghai PM

After decided the design theme, design team can have a brainstorm, to find the most suitable elements to be used sketch website sharing: http://pretatemplate.com/

(Sketches from Estelle Feng)

 

 

3.3 How to create CADs?

 

Estelle Feng

To develop a sample or manufacture a style, factories need to know every detail about your design so they can ensure garment accuracy.  Which is why they expect designers to provide professional tech pack.

 

Lizzy-Chicago-student

In school, we always use hand drawing for technical drawing, how about in company? Using CAD only?

 

Derek Shanghai PM

I use AI draw sketch, we can put the remakes on the sketch for detail workmanship and construction.

 

Derek Shanghai PM

Then put the BOM, and color combination, and measurement chart.

 

Derek Shanghai PM

For some detail part, if you cannot show in measurement chart, it is better to make a special sketch with measurement to make your detail design be easier understood.

 

Estelle Feng

We can always add detail pic reference or another AI sketch for better explanation.

 

PART FOUR: Conclusion

 

First ,really happy to be host this time, as a fashion designer I still have many things to learn, the meaning of group always learn from each other and help each other. After our discussion about this topic, please see my summary below. 

“Fashion is amazing in the way it balance art and commerce, but it’s a business.”

 

1. Importance of research.

Any successful or financially viable collection requires an enormous amount of research, investigation and planning. Designing a collection is not only a personal work but also need integrate information resources, such as investigate the market trend; understand the brand DNA; refer to like brand( if this company has)historical archived designs; well follow brand guideline; merchandise category assortment plan… Use them to inspire and improve your design.

Using fashion analysis website to research easier: WGSN; POP; Pinterest; Pantone; Vogue; FuckingYoung …

Using self-feeling when you designing… Inspiration can be everything. Needs be stuff that inspires you. A pic, a song, a smell, a poem. All those could inspire you to design.

 

2. Development

Themes and directions can be enhanced and developed from primary research, regardless of location, time or season.

When we are designing for a new brand. Three point for begain: Brand spirit; Target consumer; Uniqueness.

When we are designing for a brand exist for a while.Using exist silhouettes and divided the styles to be essential/core/fashion, each segment we have the ratio during planning.

Using website http://pretatempl ate.com/ to easier download any type of template you need and draw you sketches.

Always communicate with merchandisers sales and costing peoples to check if your collection is really workable.

 

3. Finalization of CAD

To develop a sample or manufacture a style, factories need to know every detail about your design so they can ensure garment accuracy.

Which is why they expect designers to provide profession tech pack.

Using Adobe AI/CorelDRAW to draw every detail of garment, and always insert detail notes inside, we can always add some specify measurement if we think that is necessary. For some detail part, if you cannot show in measurement chart, is better to make special AI sketch with measurement to make your detail design be easier understood.

And remember to put BOM (Bill Of Material) so the factory can easier to check all material need to be used.

 

 

 

 

 

The whole discussion is shown as below

—————  2018-7-7  —————

Christine Tsui 下午7:15
pls be on time. Those who never show up will be removed fm the group

Estelle Feng 下午7:16
[表情]

蓝梦媛Natalie Lan 下午7:49
[表情]

Estelle Feng 下午7:57
Be ready~

Heather 下午7:58
[表情][表情]

代谦娜 下午7:58
[表情][表情][表情]

LITTLE L 下午7:59
[表情][表情][表情][表情]

吉阿喜 下午7:59
[嘿哈]

Karen Kun YAN 下午7:59
[表情][表情][表情][表情]

Heather 下午8:01
@Estelle Feng-SH-fashion designer Let’s start

Estelle Feng 下午8:01
ok

Estelle Feng 下午8:01
Hi guys, nice to meet you all, I’m Estelle. I was graduated from the Tianjin Academy of Fine Arts, major in fashion design. And studied at ÉCOLE SUPÉRIEURE D’ART DE TOURCOING and ESMOD PARIS ; Served the newly established swimwear brands “ La Vaste Mer ”; US Target brand “ KNOX ROSE ” “ MOSS BLACK ” .

Estelle Feng 下午8:01
Theme: How to design a complete collection for a clothing brand?

Estelle Feng 下午8:01
We all came here for communication, so please don’t be shy, let’s enjoy our discussion time!

Estelle Feng 下午8:02
If I have English writing/grammar mistakes, please accept my apology. Thank you!

Estelle Feng 下午8:02
[表情]First, as a designer of a brand company or as a designer of a new brand, how to develop a clothing collection?

Karen Kun YAN 下午8:03
Think in customer’s shoes + investigate the market trend.

Derek Wei 下午8:03
study and understand the brand DNA, and market trend

Karen Kun YAN 下午8:03
Refer to the like brand (if this company has) historical archived designs…

代谦娜 下午8:03
In company, to develop a new collection, maybe need to get guideline of this season from merchandising planning department

Estelle Feng 下午8:03
yh~ In fashion industry, the very beginning is fashion designers. They have to consider which style should develop for this season, what kind of stories we gonna tell customers, how can we balance the price and quality/good looking… too much work actually for fashion designers…

Estelle Feng 下午8:04
yh our company have guideline as well

代谦娜 下午8:05
Which department do the guideline in your company?

Derek Wei 下午8:05
actual before design, normall we will have merchanise caterogry assortment plan and brief to design team

Karen Kun YAN 下午8:05
do you also involve sales team to provide their view?

蓝梦媛Natalie Lan 下午8:06
How about Products managers ? Does fashion industry has this role?

Derek Wei 下午8:07
yes

Estelle Feng 下午8:07
We have target brand guidelines for each brand

Estelle Feng 下午8:07
Each brand have their own guidelines

Karen Kun YAN 下午8:07
do you mind sharing a bit more about ‘target brand guidelines’? thanks

蓝梦媛Natalie Lan 下午8:08
@Derek Shanghai PM ‘tks for ur answer ~~

Estelle Feng 下午8:09
Like brand “Knox rose”, neckline opening cannot lower the modesty point. This is one of those standard

Karen Kun YAN 下午8:10
thanks

Derek Wei 下午8:10
the target brand guidelines you mentioned is brand CI guideline?@Estelle Feng-SH-fashion designer

代谦娜 下午8:10
Is The guideline include the SKU or clothing category of this season?

LITTLE L 下午8:11
Who/which department makes this brand guideline for designers in clothing company ?

Derek Wei 下午8:11
for my understanding, the guideline is that what you can do or use in the design, what you can not do or use in the design

Estelle Feng 下午8:12
For our company, retailers actually (Target)

Estelle Feng 下午8:12
@Lovelyn-Shanghai-Sourcing

LITTLE L 下午8:12
Thanks for your answers dears

Estelle Feng 下午8:13
Yes @Derek Shanghai PM

LITTLE L 下午8:13
It’s good to know

Estelle Feng 下午8:13
Really good answer

Estelle Feng 下午8:14
[表情]Second, how to do the researches ?

Estelle Feng 下午8:15
Research is very important part for fashion design, we cannot just draw whatever you feel is good, we have to do a lot of researches to make sure we are doing is in right way.

蓝梦媛Natalie Lan 下午8:15
Market research

Estelle Feng 下午8:15
Research is an essential part of the fashion design process. Whether you are designing for a brand or you’re putting together a portfolio to apply to design school, research is not optional.

覗四 下午8:15
N style research

代谦娜 下午8:16
Get some trend from the website like WGSN/Analysis your customer. I think

Karen Kun YAN 下午8:16
so true!

Karen Kun YAN 下午8:16
Set the right direction!

Estelle Feng 下午8:16
What should be included in fashion research?

蓝梦媛Natalie Lan 下午8:16
Materials?

Derek Wei 下午8:16
check if any import events related to the brand for the product launch time, to find the design theme

LITTLE L 下午8:16
Color trends/materials?

蓝梦媛Natalie Lan 下午8:17
Pantone

Derek Wei 下午8:17
then find the mood designer want to express, chose the color flow

覗四 下午8:17
Pics that u get ur inspiration, material n sketch?

Estelle Feng 下午8:18
I have websites to share, maybe you guys know them very well alrealy

Karen Kun YAN 下午8:18
like color, silhouettes, key details, prints….

Estelle Feng 下午8:18
We have WGSN which is really useful for fashion companies. They have like newest analysis reports in different categories ( women/men/kids/swimwear/lingerie/colors/trend/style development …) WGSN is my favorite website for research.

Karen Kun YAN 下午8:18
[握手]

Estelle Feng 下午8:18
And Vogue, everyone knows we can always catch new fashion event and runway pics there.

Estelle Feng 下午8:19
POP I don’t really use this, but pop is famous in China, they have also really good analysis reports, of anyone know this web better, you can just share your thoughts with us.

Estelle Feng 下午8:19
or*

Derek Wei 下午8:19
yes, i also like WGSN, also pintrest

Estelle Feng 下午8:19
And any other website you guys think is good for research? Please share with us ~

蓝梦媛Natalie Lan 下午8:21
Btw For those websites u all read English version or Chinese?will there be any differences?

覗四 下午8:21
FuckingYoung website

覗四 下午8:22
Lots of brands lookbooks there

Estelle Feng 下午8:23
For WGSN, they have a little bit differences but not that much, just some reports maybe have no Chinese vision yet. I use both of English Chinese vision actually

Julie 下午8:23
trend forecast is also important right?

Estelle Feng 下午8:23
Yh @Julie~Shanghai~High-end retail

蓝梦媛Natalie Lan 下午8:23
Tks!@Estelle Feng-SH-fashion designer

Estelle Feng 下午8:23
@Valeria-Seoul-postgraduate stude Thank you for share !

蓝梦媛Natalie Lan 下午8:23
How to forecast?

代谦娜 下午8:24
You guys really share so many useful websites

蓝梦媛Natalie Lan 下午8:24
Use Pantone?

Estelle Feng 下午8:24
Pantone is great as well!

Estelle Feng 下午8:24
But when have have choices to pick colors [偷笑]

Estelle Feng 下午8:26
If you are designing for a brand exist for a while, you have to understand his history /brand identity as well. which style they like to show to coustomes… and colors… sales situation…

Estelle Feng 下午8:27
You can try to get as much info as you can.

Karen Kun YAN 下午8:28
do you have any concern of the info quality from these websites?

Karen Kun YAN 下午8:28
And, how to avoid the mis-leading information?

Heather 下午8:29
I’m wondering how do u select those infor you want,as there are so much infor on those websites,how to select?

蓝梦媛Natalie Lan 下午8:29
i am curious for big brands like maxmara they must have a mature mechanisms to mix the trend and their own gene

Estelle Feng 下午8:30
We can focus on typical topic when we do research.

Estelle Feng 下午8:30
If I’m designing for Americans

Estelle Feng 下午8:31
I’ll go American websites check what they’re liking, what they’re selling …

Estelle Feng 下午8:32
Don’t waste too much time with websites, we just grab info we need, we want to know

Estelle Feng 下午8:33
@Natalie~Xiamen~Analyst I think the answer is Yes

代谦娜 下午8:33
As a foreign design,does it difficult to understand the usa market trends?

Heather 下午8:34
@Estelle Feng-SH-fashion designer Thanks you

蓝梦媛Natalie Lan 下午8:35
@Estelle Feng-SH-fashion designer [抱拳]

Estelle Feng 下午8:35
U.S unlike Europe, they have less trend stuff in designs, so we always have basic shape they like, some colors they are used to wear.

代谦娜 下午8:36
@Estelle Feng-SH-fashion designer thank you for your answer

Estelle Feng 下午8:36
Also we have reports from target. They have big design directions for us

Derek Wei 下午8:36
for a brand exist for a while, they have exist silhouettes, just need some new, many can be kept, actually we devided the styles to be essential/core/fahsion, each segement we have the sku ratio during planning

Estelle Feng 下午8:37
@Derek Shanghai PM Good~

Derek Wei 下午8:38
each segement goes to different type of store to reach the different level target consumers

never say never 下午8:38
Turns out there was a discussion in the group today.

Estelle Feng 下午8:39
But if you guys are designing for a new brand?

never say never 下午8:39
I just finished .I’m Climbing the stairs.

Estelle Feng 下午8:39
haha welcome~

穿越SAHARA 下午8:39
I have a question,Does the basic styles company need a designer?

Estelle Feng 下午8:40
@Henry-Hangzhou-Wholesale&Retail haha I think someone else can answer your question ~ do we have [偷笑]

Derek Wei 下午8:40
design for a new brand, i think it is much more difficult

Estelle Feng 下午8:41
Yh now we have so many brands come out everyday

代谦娜 下午8:41
The brand like uniqlo need to do the guideline for new season?[表情]

Estelle Feng 下午8:42
@Queena-Luoyang-AGL Yes. Guideline is very basic standard

Estelle Feng 下午8:43
Uniqlo must be much more detail than us

Estelle Feng 下午8:43
For new brand

We can start with 4 questions~
What identity do I want this clothing brand to project?
Who will want to wear my clothes?
What can customers get from my clothing brand that they can’t get anywhere else?
What makes my clothing unique?

never say never 下午8:43
In my opinion,Every company has its own product plan.

Derek Wei 下午8:44
designer need to understand who are the target consumer, why this new brand was created, what this new brand want to express, then designer can find the suiatable theme for design to build the brand identity in the market

Estelle Feng 下午8:45
@Derek Shanghai PM good answer~

Estelle Feng 下午8:46
For new brand, I will use brand “La Vaste Mer ” for explanations. This is a complete new brand, when customer first came to me, he doesn’t have that much ideas. he told me he wants a swimwear brand for younger generations, and plan use Tmall (China)Aliexpress(overseas)EBay(overseas)this kind of e-commerce website to sell his products in China and overseas. With prices around $20-50.

代谦娜 下午8:46
[强]

never say never 下午8:46
Brand spirit
Target consumer
uniqueness

Estelle Feng 下午8:47
@Spring–GuangZhou–buyer [强]

never say never 下午8:47
Can I understand that?

Estelle Feng 下午8:48
Then we should to think about what identity do I want this clothing brand to project.
The brand named “La Vaste Mer ”, this is French name, means the vast sea in English. What I think is French chic and blue ocean … very relaxing and comfortable with French chic style swimsuits …French typical colors … red blue and white [表情]…
We remember this kind of environment, always helpful when we designing.

Estelle Feng 下午8:49
But who will want to wear my clothes?
So we can set ages range; price range and any things else you want to clarify.

Estelle Feng 下午8:49
anything else ?

Estelle Feng 下午8:49
🤔

Estelle Feng 下午8:50
Below is what I’ve been put in for my client.

Estelle Feng 下午8:50
图片1(可在附件中查看)

Estelle Feng 下午8:51
What can customers get from my clothing brand that they can’t get anywhere else?
For La Vaste Mer, they have swimwear fabric factory background, so the advantage is they are really familiar with swimwear fabric development, they can lower the cost of fabric etc…and they used be production firm for Europe and American brands. They need now is design team. So they have unrestricted fabric choices, we and choose colors we like and design fabric print as well.
So this collection can be cheaper than independent designers brand, have unique fabrics, and better designs compare with other cheap swimwear brand.

Estelle Feng 下午8:53
Any new ideas for this part?

Heather 下午8:54
wow[强]

Estelle Feng 下午8:56
[表情]Third, the design process~

Estelle Feng 下午8:59
Sorry for too much information~ we can always talk ~

穿越SAHARA 下午9:00
don’t worry

Heather 下午9:03
@Estelle Feng-SH-fashion designer It’s ok,we can continue[愉快]

Estelle Feng 下午9:04
What else we should be careful when we designing for a new brand ~?

Estelle Feng 下午9:09
And we can also set a planning sheet to see if your styles covered all things you want ~

Estelle Feng 下午9:10
Ok Let’s go to the third part~

代谦娜 下午9:11
About the inspiration

Estelle Feng 下午9:12
Yes ~

Estelle Feng 下午9:12
Inspiration can be everything ~

Estelle Feng 下午9:12
Needs be stuff that inspires you. A pic, a song, a smell, a poem..all those could inspire you to design.

代谦娜 下午9:13
When I at university, I just choose some pictures that inspire me

代谦娜 下午9:13
The picture from online like pinterest

Estelle Feng 下午9:14
yh~ I always use Pinterest as well, when I have some ideas in mind but hard to tell, I’ll use it go through pics and found those suitable pics, they always have original link so you can check the all infos .

代谦娜 下午9:16
But for me, in this high speed developing society, that is more and more difficult to choose an inspiration [捂脸]

Derek Wei 下午9:17
the import part is how you use material and excution on the products to express the inspiration

Estelle Feng 下午9:18
Yes, when we’re be able to use inspiration to make something out , the feeling must be stronger

never say never 下午9:19
As for me,The source of inspiration, mainly depends on the individual,Even if society is impetuous.

Estelle Feng 下午9:21
Yh inspiration is personal thing

Estelle Feng 下午9:21
Tiny list share with you guys. We can always go througt them when we looking for inspiration~

Estelle Feng 下午9:21
图片2(可在附件中查看)

Estelle Feng 下午9:22
which is not exhaustive[嘿哈]

Estelle Feng 下午9:25
How to refine the style you want?~

Heather 下午9:25
Thank you for sharing!

Karen Kun YAN 下午9:25
thanks for sharing this list

Heather 下午9:26
by extracting some key elements?

Estelle Feng 下午9:26
@Heather-Wuhan-AGL Yh Good way

Estelle Feng 下午9:29
After lots of sketches we’ve been drawn, we can extract some key elements easily…

Estelle Feng 下午9:30
So I’m gonna share a website(they have app as well) for sketches ~

蓝梦媛Natalie Lan 下午9:30
First of all need to know or list all the styles in the market

Derek Wei 下午9:30
after decided the deisgn theme,
design team can have a brainstorm, to find the most suitable elements to be used

蓝梦媛Natalie Lan 下午9:31
Yeah brainstorm is a good approach

Estelle Feng 下午9:32
@Derek Shanghai PM yh brainstorm is helpful

Estelle Feng 下午9:33
and we can also always go back to reasearch part to check if our styles is suitable ~

Estelle Feng 下午9:36
And that sketch website is PRÊT-Â-TEMPLATE

Estelle Feng 下午9:37
图片3(可在附件中查看)

Estelle Feng 下午9:38
图片4(可在附件中查看)

代谦娜 下午9:38
Thank you for sharing

SuyyLizzy 下午9:39
Thank you for sharing the sketches

Estelle Feng 下午9:39
They have lot of templates we can use

Estelle Feng 下午9:42
So let’s go to next part~

Estelle Feng 下午9:42
how to create CADs?

Estelle Feng 下午9:43
To develop a sample or manufacture a style, factories need to know every detail about your design so they can ensure garment accuracy. Which is why they expect designers to provide professional tech pack.

Estelle Feng 下午9:44
We have technical designers here ?[表情][表情] or anyone have any questions for this part?

SuyyLizzy 下午9:45
In school, we always use hand drawing for technical drawing, how about in company? Using CAD only?

Estelle Feng 下午9:46
Our company use CAD, but a lot of Chinese company just draw some simple sketches and let designer to communicate with pattern marker

Estelle Feng 下午9:46
And sewing people

SuyyLizzy 下午9:47
Coreldraw is another software I heard a lot where a lot of company required when hiring designers, is it also for techinical drawing?

Derek Wei 下午9:47
i use AI draw sketch, we can put the remaked on the skech for detail workmanship and constuction

Estelle Feng 下午9:47
Yes But now more and more people are using AI for drawing

Estelle Feng 下午9:48
@Lizzy-Chicago-student

Derek Wei 下午9:48
then put the BOM, and color combination, and measurement chart

SuyyLizzy 下午9:48
Thank you for asking my question

Estelle Feng 下午9:49
AI is easier for me[憨笑]

Estelle Feng 下午9:49
@Derek Shanghai PM really good call out

Estelle Feng 下午9:49
@Derek Shanghai PM can you please explain what’s is BOM for us

Derek Wei 下午9:50
bill of material

Estelle Feng 下午9:50
Thank you

Estelle Feng 下午9:51
图片5(可在附件中查看)

Estelle Feng 下午9:52
Details in CAD

Estelle Feng 下午9:52
图片6(可在附件中查看)

SuyyLizzy 下午9:52
Do we need to include the measument in technical drawing?

Estelle Feng 下午9:52
BOM

Estelle Feng 下午9:53
@Lizzy-Chicago-student Yes we need give them some measurements

Estelle Feng 下午9:53
Like the length of garment

Estelle Feng 下午9:53
Pockets size

SuyyLizzy 下午9:54
Got it.

Estelle Feng 下午9:54
All measurements you think you should call out, you can always add some measurements

Derek Wei 下午9:54
for some detail part, if you can not show in measurement chart, it is better to make a speical sketch with measurement to make your detail design be easier understood

Estelle Feng 下午9:55
Yes[强] @Derek Shanghai PM

代谦娜 下午9:55
@Derek Shanghai PM you are so professional [强]

Estelle Feng 下午9:56
We can always add detail pic reference or another ai sketch for better explanation

Estelle Feng 下午9:57
So by now, I’ve been finished all things I should share ~

Estelle Feng 下午9:58
Please leave me a message if you have questions~

Chloecat 下午9:58
thanks for sharing~~

Derek Wei 下午9:59
thank you

Heather 下午9:59
@Estelle Feng-SH-fashion designer Thank you!

Estelle Feng 下午9:59
Really happy to be host this time, as a designer I still have many things to learn, but I do like share some experience that I know with our group members~ I’ve been learned a lot from you guys as well~And again If I have English writing/grammar mistakes, please accept my apology.

代谦娜 下午9:59
@Estelle Feng-SH-fashion designer Thank you!

SuyyLizzy 下午10:00
@Estelle Feng-SH-fashion designer thank you!

sand hue[表情] 下午10:01
[表情]

Christine Tsui 下午10:04
@Estelle Feng-SH-fashion designer thank you

Estelle Feng 下午10:05
Than you all!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

What is Merchandising Planning?

Christine Tsui Fashion Community

What is Merchandising Planning

 

Date:18/03/2018

Time: 8pm to 10pm

Host by Midori-shanghai-designer

Pisces, a post-90s designer with mild obsessive-compulsive disorder, has a strong executive power and a combination of care and patience. Three years local brand designer experience, in the design has its own preference and opinion.

The outline of discussion:

Q1. What is Merchandising?

Q2. Why is Merchandising Planning important?

Q3. How to make a Merchandising Planning?

 

PART ONE: What is Merchandising?

Merchandising is a general term. It involves a wide range of occupations. They are retail purchasing, designers, buyers, displays, merchandising managers, marketing operations, production managers and other occupations.


a. What are the occupations involved in merchandising?

 

Hangzhou-Buyer-Crystal

The first thought coming out must be Buyer.
Jason- Guangzhou- Independent buyer +manager
Designer, Buyer, Visual Merchandising, Merchandising Manager, Marketing, Operation, Production Manager, etc.

Deng Hua- Shanghai- Buyer of Children’s Wear
Buyer in R & D department , Retail Buyer.

Jing Jing- Hangzhou- Jewelry sales
Merchandising specialist.

Yvonne-Shanghai-Garment
Product manager.

Zitong-Shanghai-Merchandising
Buyer, merchandising planner.

Midori-Shanghai-Designer
Buyer is a general designation.
Zitong-Shanghai-Merchandising
Brand manager.

Yi Maoban-Shanghai-Culture & Travel
Merchandising planner, designer

Ziwen-Ningbo-Ecommerce
Visual Merchandising, sales, merchandising director, marketing, designer.

Abby-Guangzhou-Merchandising Manager
Merchandising, merchandising manager, buyer.

Jason-Guangzhou-Independent buyer + Manager
All of these should be involved in the whole merchandising.

Midori-Shanghai-Designer
Buyer is the main position in Merchandising. And rest of them are more likely to be relevant to retail buying.

Yu Siqi-Beijing- Buyer’s assistant
Merchandising manager, buyer, etc.

Yvonne-Shanghai-Clothes
Purchasing should also be considered as a large general term. It involves merchandising.

Una-South Africa-Former buyer
Buyer / designer / visual merchandising / merchandising analyst / branding director.

Yu Siqi-Beijing-Buyer’s Assistant
The department of merchandising.

Midori-Shanghai-designer
The designer belongs to the design project.

Una-South Africa-former buyer
We used to be that buyers making merchandising plans, and then the marketing department, sales department, merchandising department, and purchasing department holding a meeting together.

Midori-Shanghai-designer
The visual merchandising is a spatial planner, and this part overlaps with the merchandising, involving these several departments, which is the influence factor we will discuss later. My understanding includes: retail purchases, buyers (niche brand buyers / traditional buyers / consumer-oriented buyers / mass buyers). The main two parts will be more in favor of merchandising.

b. What does Merchandising include? 

In different enterprises, the content of merchandising will be different. However, from a marco-perspective, merchandising includes design planning, product planning, process control, and so on. 

Details include OTB planning (width and depth of SKU), launching plan, collection theme, merchandising structure and category planning (E. G. product style and structure, color, fabric, pattern, etc.), Sales Budget, Purchasing Budget, Spatial Planning, Marketing Planning, and pricing.

Jason-Guangzhou-independent buyer + manager
Design planning, product planning. Process management and control includes quarterly theme planning, merchandising structure planning, band amount planning!

Zitong-Shanghai-Merchandising
Proportion of merchandising category.

Lengyun-Shanghai-Master of group
Is it a business that we know?

Cheng Liang-Guangzhou-buyer
Style, theme, color.

Lengyun-Shanghai-Master of group
In other words, is it a question of personal opinion or corporate phenomenon?

Midori-Shanghai-Designer
Business that we know.

Abby-Guangzhou-Merchandising Manager
OTB, banding, merchandise style and structure, color, fabric, pattern, and collection.

Deng Hua-Shanghai-Buyer of Children’s Wear
In our company, buyers come up with the merchandising planning every quarter and keep communication with designers. Then designers will design according to the framework of merchandising.

Zitong-Shanghai-Merchandising
The structure of each band goods.

Hangzhou-buyer-Crystal
Launching planning, category planning, demand planning, marketing planning, pricing (merchandising first planning, then analysis, and finally inspection).

Una-South Africa-Former Buyer
I used to have a vague concept in my mind. After learning the teacher’s curriculum I summed up that first according to the sales, we can forecast and formulate marketing target, profit target (gross profit / net profit), stock-to-sales ratio goal, discount strategy, and merchandising structure classification. According to the above objectives, the OTB budget and the design planning (merchandising visual planning / spatial planning / marketing band and product line planning) are worked out.

Yu Siqi-Beijing-Buyer’s Assistant
Planning, brand selection, communication, signing of contracts, OTB, selection, observation of sales data, timely replenishment / return of the entire product line.

Yi Maoban-Shanghai-Wen Lv

Product positioning, target clientele, style series, output and price range.

Jing Jing-Hangzhou-Jewelry sales
Product purchasing budget, product portfolio, product width, pricing.

Lengyun-Shanghai-Master of group
@Deng Hua + Shanghai + Buyer of Children’s Wear: Dear you still haven’t explained what the merchandising is including?

Susan-Shanghai-Buyer
Macroscopic aspects include political and economic trends; microcosmic aspects include OTBs, listed bands, category proportions, spatial planning ,and sku width and depth.

Lengyun-Shanghai-Master of group
Back to the fundamental question, what is the purpose of merchandising? Why should there be a merchandising?

Midori-Shanghai-Designer
What I have observed is that merchandising generally includes merchandising launching plan, merchandising category planning, sales budget, purchasing budget, and a subdivided purchasing budget.

Anlan-Shanghai-Design
OTB, category structure, profile structure, each shelf band, SKU, amount allocation, pricing, post review, and promotional activities.

Susan-Shanghai-Buyer
The purpose of merchandising is to maximize the profits.

Una-South Africa-Former buyer
The purpose of merchandising is to guide the design and development of merchandise from the point of view of maximizing the profits of enterprises.

Midori-Shanghai-Designer
@ Susan- Shanghai- buyer: This is very detailed.

Deng Hua-Shanghai-Buyer of Children’s Wear
OTB, category planning, market band, launching plan, sales forecast, and pricing strategy.

Midori-Shanghai-Designer
In addition, clothes is a seasonal product, when to sell, how much should be sold, what amount of the style all need to be planned in advance, and to ensure that planning in line with the law of seasonal changes in climate. In addition to being affected by the climate, retail sales are also much affected by holidays.

Lengyun-Shanghai-Master of group
Actually, I do not think the concept of profit maximization exists, just more for the sake of sales, gross margin and inventory balance.

Lily-Shanghai-Buyer
I will also increase more key section developing plans.

Midori-Shanghai-Designer
So the part of the launching plan is also of great importance.

Abby-Guangzhou-Merchandising Manager
Make the planning of the amount of money, profits, basic funds, image section.

Anlan-Shanghai-Design
Define the attributes of the merchandise

Ziwen-Ningbo-ecommerce
There are merchandising sales forecast, the formulation of OTB plan, and merchandising positioning (price band, style, and sales strategy)in the early stage, and in the later stage, the actual sales data analysis (such as the purchase, sales, storage, return, and other indicators).

Hangzhou-Buyer-Crystal
Can it be understood as reducing inventory risk to more accurately find out the popular style, the amount of money, so as to maximize sales?

Midori-Shanghai-Designer 
Profit maximization is also important to set the demand for the number of styles, and plan how many sku in each quarter to sell.

Lengyun-Shanghai-Master of group
In particular, the question of the width and depth of the merchandise is very important.

Deng Hua-Shanghai-Buyer of Children’s Wear
We will always keep an eye on the sales situation, starting with the launching.

Lengyun-Shanghai-Master of group
Yeah, it’s all a rolling plan.

Anlan-Shanghai-Design
And the depth of each item ~.

Midori-Shanghai-Designer
Yes, then the historical making-the-plan data will be used as a reference value.

c.What is the relationship between merchandising and design planning?

 

It is generally accepted that design planning is a part of merchandising. The difference between the two is that the former is more perceptual and pays more attention to the visual presentation, while the latter is more rational,  based on the historical data and focus more on overall business planning of the company. 

Jason-Guangzhou-independent buyer + manager. 
Merchandising includes design planning!

Una-South Africa-former buyer. 
Between them, the ability to sell products, sales season and sales history are very important.

Candy-Shanghai multibrand buyer. 
Design planning is more focused on merchandise style.

Deng Hua-Shanghai-Buyer of Children’s Wear. 
The designer plans under the framework of merchandising.

Midori-Shanghai-designer. 
Yeah, they’re subset relation.

Yvonne-shanghai-clothes. 
Does it depend on whether the company is buyer-led or design-led to determine their relationship?

Lily-shanghai-buyer. 
In depth I will refer to the definition of historical data, channel changes, and style, but the most important basis is OTB.

Hangzhou-buyer-Crystal. 
Merchandising plan as a guide, gives the direction of design planning and demand. Design planning according to fashion trends, colors, fabrics, and the combination of popular elements to design merchandise.

Fioriah-Shanghai-Brand and Market expansion.
Merchandising on the basis of design planning is more sensitive to the market response, and design planning focusing on culture and style.

Lengyun-shanghai-master of group. 
@ Midori- Shanghai-designers: we’d better talk about the differences between merchandise planning and design planning.

Lily-shanghai-buyer. 
Merchandising is shown by numbers.

Yu Siqi-Beijing-Buyer’s Assistant. 
Merchandising includes design planning. Merchandising for the overall retail merchandising, and design planning focus on the sense of design.

Lily-shanghai-buyer. 
Design planning focuses on vision.

Midori-Shanghai-designer. 
Merchandising is rational planning, while design planning is perceptual planning. Design planning needs merchandising to give a general planning direction before it can be carried out.

Candy-Shanghai multibrand buyer. 
The difference between the two I think is the different focus. Merchandising focuses on depth and breadth, which is the quantity aspect while design planning more emphasizes on style.

 Anlan-Shanghai-Design. 
Our merchandising will also set a push rhythm, and add some promotional activities.

Midori-Shanghai-designer. 
Merchandising is up to the number of planning requirements, and merchandising cost budget requirements.

Una-South Africa-former buyer. 
Merchandising tends to be formulated price positioning, market positioning, and consumer positioning while the design planning inclines to make the trend of the brand, color, style, and fabric.

Midori-Shanghai-designer.
Design planning will be based on the data above to specifically plan fabric type, style, color, and thickness.

Ziwen-Ningbo-ecommerce. 
Early there is the merchandising, whose part is design planning. Is the design planning entirely done by the design department?

Zitong-shanghai-merchandising. 
The design plan should be meticulous to a series of themes, styles, main colors, surface accessories and so on.

Lu Xiaokang-Shanghai-buyer. 
What is harder to design is the relationship between seasonal themes and the rest of the band themes with consumers.

Midori-Shanghai-designer.
Yes, the design planning is entirely done by the design department, and most companies do so.

Lu Xiaokang-Shanghai-buyer. 
No department of planning can be separated from it.

Zitong-shanghai-merchandising. 
I think merchandising is more based on historical data and the corporate’s overall planning framework.

Jason-Guangzhou-independent buyer + manager. 
Design planning should be the source of early inspiration, fashion trend analysis and theme Kanban, etc.

Midori-Shanghai-designer. 
Design planning needs merchandising to give the specific launching time, sales cycle, the number and relative proportion of all kinds of goods listed, the price range, and the respective proportion of the basic, fashion, characteristics, essential section.

Jason-Guangzhou-independent buyer + manager. 
More perceptual, merchandising is the whole business case.

Lengyun-shanghai-master of group. 
Merchandising is data planning while design planning is visual planning.  That’s my simplest definition.

-Yi Maoban-Shanghai-Wen Lv. 
That is to say, merchandising has a guiding influence on design planning.

Midori-Shanghai-designer. 
That’s right.

Abby-Guangzhou-Merchandising Manager. 
According to the design planning, the proportion of display space planning, style series, color, as well as the proportion of merchandise attributes, fabric, and pattern.

PART TWO  Why is Merchandising Planning important?

 

a. How does buying team work without a merchandising planning?

The benefits from a good merchandising planning are shown below:

A.  It is a well explanation of fashion trends, an analysis of historical data and a monitor on inventory level. It is scientific and caters the changing customers’ demands.

B. It works when company try to reduce reduction caused by excessive inventory and shortage of stocks. It can improve sales performance and increase profit margins!

C. The key issues when merchandising planning is that how to select the depth and breadth of inventory, how to distribute basic products and fashion commodities, and how to calculate OTB purchases and amounts. The maximized utilization of funds ensure that there will be enough back-up fund when the sales performance is not good as expected.

Susan-Shanghai-buyer. 
The boss patted his head.

Lu Xiaokang-Shanghai-buyer. 
The boss is talking nonsense.

-Yi Maoban-Shanghai-Wen Lv. 
Hit the head + 1.

Lu Xiaokang-Shanghai-buyer.
So do we.

Una-South Africa-former buyer. 
By feeling.

Deng Hua-Shanghai-Children’s clothes. 
Buyers refer to competing brands.

Zitong-shanghai-merchandising. 
I recalled that the department manager of our company bought goods. I just thought it would be OK to order this 500 and that 1000 with no reason.

Jason-Guangzhou-independent buyer + manager. 
By the eye, it’s a perceptual choice!

-Yi Maoban-Shanghai-Wen Lv. 
Or based on experience, and data from the previous year.

Candy-Shanghai multibrand buyer. 
In the absence of a specific merchandising, our boss estimated it roughly on the basis of the sales budget.

Abby-Guangzhou-Merchandising Manager. 
According to historical data.

Lu Xiaokang-Shanghai-buyer. 
It’s just so crazy and not reliable.

Jing Jing-Hangzhou-Jewelry sales. 
Experience and intuition.

-Yi Maoban-Shanghai-Wen Lv. 
The sixth sense.

Candy-Shanghai multibrand buyer. 
As far as the specific style is concerned, it is entirely based on feeling.

Cheng Liang-Guangzhou-buyer. 
In fact, in many small branded chain stores, there is no merchandising. It’s based on sales, previous data, and the current quarter of the hot categories, or to see what stores are needed, to make purchases.

Ziwen-Ningbo-ecommerce. 
Buy what’s popular.

Una-South Africa-former buyer. 
Historical data is important.

Hangzhou-buyer-Crystal. 
If there is no merchandising, more is the upper echelon and the boss according to their own experience of the market, sensibility to buy goods, with the market wave by flow.

Abby-Guangzhou-Merchandising Manager.
City tune, fashion trend.

Midori-Shanghai-designer. 
Generally speaking, it is based on individual preferences for style to buy it.

Yvonne-shanghai-clothes. 
According to the actual sales situation and last year’s experience, which sells well will increase the quantity or turn over the order.

Lengyun-shanghai-master of group. 
How can the trend of market research and fashion be explained into figures?

Candy-Shanghai multibrand buyer. 
There will also be a reference to the brand company’s recommendations, and the main merchandise.

Lu Xiaokang-Shanghai-buyer. 
Consumer self-portraits are important.

-Yi Maoban-Shanghai-Wen Lv. 
Follow the celebrities.

Hangzhou-buyer-Crystal. 
Refer to what competing brands are selling.

Zitong-shanghai-merchandising. 
Sometimes the designers were cut off too many styles by the buyers, and the department manager picked out some of last year’s popular styles and changed the fabric and color to renew them.

Una-South Africa-former buyer. 
The opinions of the salesmen and franchisees.

-Yi Maoban-Shanghai-Wen Lv. 
Refer to the factory styles and recommendations.

Lily-shanghai-buyer. 
A lot of trends can also be seen in the street photography.

Midori-Shanghai-designer. 
So what will be the problem by this way of buying?

Zitong-shanghai-merchandising

Sales and franchisees’ opinions sometimes come too late and will be referred to the later rapid response, but in the initial order, it is all based on experience and personal preferences.

-Yi Maoban-Shanghai-Wen Lv. 
Following the trend with the general public results in a backlog of goods.

Zitong-shanghai-merchandising. 
How else can we sell our inventory at a 70% discount for five or six weeks?

Lily-shanghai-buyer. 
Irrational, it is likely to lose control of good inventory.

Deng Hua-Shanghai-Buyer of Children’s Wear. 
Bad style doesn’t sell out, but good style sells out too early.

Candy-Shanghai multibrand buyer. 
For example, to buy according to historical sales, the original model may be popular, but the next season is not popular. According to the recommendation of the brand company, maybe our customers are not that type.

Ziwen-Ningbo-ecommerce. 
I will consult the supplier or the factory’s opinion. The possibility of buying the new general is quite big because we have the fluke psychology.

Zitong-shanghai-merchandising. 
Sometimes, we turn last season’s good fashion models, which are supported by sales data, into this season’s VW models. (AP Photo / trendy / trendy).

Midori-Shanghai-designer. 
Therefore, the merchandising is to make a “framework guidance” for this quarter’s order before the order meeting. If the merchandising can be compared to setting up the skeleton, then the order will be specifically order goods.

Yvonne-shanghai-clothes. 
@Ziwen Ningbo ecommerce.

What do you mean by reference to the opinions of suppliers and factories? Will they give a trend of competing goods or fabric styles with high order volume in the current time?

Midori-Shanghai-designer. 
Have you ever met any unreasonable situation in the formulation of merchandising?

Jason-Guangzhou-independent buyer + manager. 
Yes, but according to the data of the same period in previous years, it is still relatively referential. If there are differences, we can make adjustments in the later period.

Zitong-shanghai-merchandising. 
In fact, a lot of merchandising is also very perceptual.

Abby-Guangzhou-Merchandising Manager. 
The proportion of the key categories planning does not coincide with the sales.

Candy-Shanghai multibrand buyer. 
Yes, for example, a certain category plans to order SKUs too large, but the options are not so many.

Lily-shanghai-buyer. 
This will be adjusted on the spot according to the order.

-Yi Maoban-Shanghai-Wen Lv. 
This is because the designer is not our company?

Jason-Guangzhou-independent buyer + manager. 
There will be one in the company.

Una-South Africa-former buyer. 
How to effectively avoid perceptual formulation? What is the most important point?

Midori-Shanghai-designer. 
Sometimes poor portfolio planning results in excessive production costs while overstocking of unpopular products, and insufficient inventory of marketable products, result in losing sales opportunities.

Ziwen-Ningbo-ecommerce. 
Suppliers sometimes have a better grasp of the product or details than we do. With more information, they directly improve according to the feedback they get from the original product.

Candy-Shanghai multibrand buyer. 
Right. Equalitarianism is a very easy mistake to make when ordering an order, and it is sometimes impossible to make a correct choice when you choose it with a particular focus.

Midori-Shanghai-designer. 
This is an irrational expression of merchandising. Merchandising Planning is to make a specific quantitative decision for the purchase, through at the right time, in the right store, providing the right goods to meet the needs of customers.

b. What will be the impact of good or bad merchandising planning?

 

If there is no merchandising, many companies make buying decisions according to the bosses’ opinions. Some will also take reference to historical sales data, seasonal fashion trends and reference to competing brands, asking salespeople and franchisees for advice to determine. These methods may have some drawbacks, such as the emotional judgment of the boss alone being likely to face inventory problems in the future; if reference to historical sales data, the trends today may not be popular next season; Sales and franchisees’ comments sometimes come too late for later quick response.

Merchandising Planning, as a framework guidance, is really important. A good merchandising planning can greatly be beneficial for an enterprise to make a profit. Bad merchandising will directly affect the interests of the company, leading to a decline in retail terminal performances. The unreasonable Category structure, and too many or too few products will increase the probability of inventory risk. In other words, merchandising is the steerer of a ship, and whether a steerer is good or not affects the passengers of the whole ship.

Ziwen-Ningbo-ecommerce. 
Egalitarianism may be caused by market research not done well, or money being measured.

Candy-Shanghai multibrand buyer. 
I think we need to think about the business case in many dimensions and in many ways. For example, in the article shared by the teacher, there are several key points that need to be paid attention to in the planning, and market research has identified more than 10 of the most influential points that we need to carefully consider in the planning.

Midori-Shanghai-designer. 
From the purchasing aspect: if the retailer planning and quantity of ordering the merchandise is insufficient, lack of the target customer’s merchandise can cause the sale loss. On the other hand, overbuying of commodities may lead to overstocking at the end of the season, leading to low returns on profits.

Lengyun-shanghai-master of group. 
You have to read your article in conjunction with me. Otherwise, it’s always limited to your own experience.

Midori-Shanghai-designer. 
Neither the quantity nor the style nor the choice of goods, it is not an easy or simple decision for the buyer.

Hangzhou-buyer-Crystal. 
A bad merchandising will have a direct impact on the interests of the company, which causes the decline in retail terminal performance. Secondly, the category structure is unreasonable, the product is too much or too little, and the probability of inventory risk is increased. In other words, merchandising is the steerer of a ship, and whether the steerer good or bad affects the passengers of the whole ship.

Candy-Shanghai multibrand buyer. 
As far as our company is concerned, the main reference factors are OTB, historical sales data, fashion trends, and the store display.

Midori-Shanghai-designer. 
So, our article has talked about some experimental ways to guide people in buying methods to make breakthroughs, to maximize profits.

-Yi Maoban-Shanghai-Wen Lv. 
Will merchandising affect the liquidity of the company?

Midori-Shanghai-designer. 
The impact is due to the limited budget for each product, limited shelf space, store space for commercial displays, and a limited number of suppliers are able to offer competitive products.

Merchandising develope on the basis of trade-off decisions between multiple decision factors (e.g. marketability, budget, economy) to meet customer requirements. Also they take the uniqueness of clothes products into consideration (e.g., short time to market, changing variables, unpredictable consumers).

Candy-Shanghai multibrand buyer. 

But even if these factors are taken into account, there will be a lot of restrictions in the specific purchase. At present, I feel in the purchase of good planning is just to give myself a concept, when we have specific orders it is not so easy to follow the plan. It’s a combination of reason and sensibility.

PART THREE  How to make a good Merchandising Planning?

There are many factors affecting merchandising planning.

Internal factors include: 

1. Budget (OTB).

2. The number of shops and the size of each store.

3. Brand positioning.

4. Historical sales data of previous years.

5. Product evaluation (marketability and sales cycle).

6. Product cost and fare increase.

7. Surplus inventory level and total inventory level.

External factors include: 

1. The characteristics and requirements of the target market.

2. Information of epidemic trend.

3. Competitor products and product planning.

4. Supplier evaluation.

5. The economic condition of the shop area and the disposable income of the customers.

6. Weather conditions and changes.

It is worth noting that sometimes it is necessary to consider the length of the product production cycle and whether the product can be launched on time as planned. If not, missing the sales session will affect sales, and we need to take timely measures to deal with it. This is a common problem in practice (such as setting aside a small portion of the buffer during a product planning to prevent a product delay, and preparing a plan B to replace the problem product, such as flipping through a list or getting a quick order with a common fabric in advance of the book).

In addition, when the design language is presented into the sales language, the terminal sales staff words is also very important. Because sales staffs are the people facing consumers ultimately, so sale words can highlight the advantages of the products and persuade consumers to buy more.
a. What are the factors that affect merchandising planning? 

Midori-Shanghai-designer. 

This part is mainly discussed from three aspects:

(1) Consumer cognition and preference.

(2) retailer constraint.

(3) external environmental factors.

 

Jason-Guangzhou-independent buyer + manager. 
As the article recommended by the teacher, there are internal and external environmental factors, 13 items to be taken into account in total.

Internal environmental considerations: 

1. Budget (OTB).

2. The number of shops and the size of each store.

3. Brand positioning.

4. Historical sales data of previous years.

5. Product evaluation (marketability and sales cycle).

6. Product cost and fare increase.

7. Surplus inventory level and total inventory level.

External environmental considerations: 

1. The characteristics and requirements of the target market.

2. Information of epidemic trend.

3. Competitor products and product planning;

4. Supplier evaluation.

5. The economic condition of the shop area and the disposable income of the customers.

6. Weather conditions and changes.

Candy-Shanghai multibrand buyer. 
I would like to know what the most important factors are in your respective companies?

Midori-Shanghai-designer. 
First one is budget. For most clothes retailers, the initial total budget is created by executives ahead of the new season or the start of the new year. Although product selection based on qualitative forecasts may seem easy, classification plannings are considered difficult because they are usually carried out within a limited budget.

Una-South Africa-former buyer. 
Merchandising efficiency.

Midori-Shanghai-designer. 
How does merchandising efficiency affect merchandising?

Yvonne-shanghai-clothes. 
I think we should take into account the length of the production cycle and whether or not we can launch the product on time as planned. If you can’t miss the sales session, that will affect your sales volume, then we need to take timely action to deal with it.  This is a common problem in practice (such as setting aside a small portion of the buffer during a product planning to prevent a product delay, and preparing a plan B to replace the problem product, such as flipping through a list or getting a quick order with a common fabric in advance of the book).

Lengyun-shanghai-master of group. 
That’s great. In reality, that’s the problem.

Yvonne-shanghai-clothes. 
Well, planning is very important, but can we go according to the plan? How to control should also be a task that is controlled by the buyer.

Midori-Shanghai-designer. 
In reality the supplier’s development cycle will also have a great impact.

Susan-Shanghai-buyer. 
In reality, what our company does not pay attention to is the level of surplus inventory and the total inventory level.

Candy-Shanghai multibrand buyer. 
Yes, in reality it will delay delivery due to the company’s liquidity problems.

Midori-Shanghai-designer. 
For example, the supplier cannot deliver the goods on time because of the planned style and quantity.

Una-South Africa-former buyer. 
I think merchandising efficiency is the key point that must be analyzed before each purchase by analyzing the historical data on the sell-out rate and by analyzing SKU / each item / each category. Make sure you know exactly what to do, and then plan for a specific implementation plan.

Lengyun-shanghai-master of group. 
That’s right. All this needs to be considered in the early stages of development.

Jason-Guangzhou-independent buyer + manager. 
Another point is that when the design language is translated into the sales language, it is also very important for the Fab knowledge to be well translated into the words of the terminal salesperson, because it is salespeople who face the consumers.

Jason-Guangzhou-independent buyer + manager. 
This will also be reflected in the planning.

Candy-Shanghai multibrand buyer. 
Also, I think we need to reflect on our plans for the last quarter, which will help us to find out problems. Our company is lacking of reflection at the end of the quarter.

Una-South Africa-former buyer. 
It seems that there’s no time for reflection. You’re right.

Candy-Shanghai multibrand buyer. 
Usually it’s finished after the project is done and the goods are sold out.

b. What is the basis for merchandising? 

Una-South Africa-former buyer. 

Merchandising is based on:

1. Sales forecast;

2. Historical sales;

3. consumers’ perceived preferences (consumer instability)

4. Retailer constraints (physical space / market positioning, etc.);

5. External environment (macroeconomic / changing trends in consumer lifestyles, etc.).

Midori-Shanghai-designer. 
That’s right.

Deng Hua-Shanghai-Buyer of Children’s Wear. 
Ecommerce business also considers platform activity time and discount.

Midori-Shanghai-designer. 
Are there any problems during the implementation of these principles?

Hangzhou-buyer-Crystal. 
First of all, according to the purchasing planning for the entire quarter, the full indicator determines the quantity of goods for the quarter.

Secondly, the width and depth of the merchandise is determined by the number and size of the existing and the next three months’ total stores. Referring to the historical sales data of previous years, we can judge the demand planning and sales positioning of sales in this quarter. For the categories missing from previous years, we should adjust and improve the category structure in time this year. Besides, according to the existing inventory, control the overall issue of orders inventory. The time to market is determined by the sales cycle of the merchandise, the delivery time of the supplier and the recent weather changes.

Jing Jing-Hangzhou-Jewelry sales. 
Check deviations between planned and actual sales.

Midori-Shanghai-designer. 
When everybody is making the merchandising, what kind of problem consult historical data will appear?

Una-South Africa-former buyer.
Can ‘consumer instability’ be one problem?

Midori-Shanghai-designer. 
Yeah. For example, a good model selling well in the last season will be done a continuation in this season. Will this continuation sell well?

Una-South Africa-former buyer. 
I usually combine the latest fashion trends in Europe and the United States to design merchandises for new season.

 Li Fangfang-Shanghai-Cross-border e-commerce operations. 
The problem for me is that the difference between the new sales target and the historical sales data market.

Hangzhou-buyer-Crystal. 
The difference in the number of stores, such as 10 stores in the first year and 80 or 90 stores in the second year, makes the reference accuracy of the sales data low.

Candy-Shanghai multibrand buyer. 
Yes. For example changes in stores. Shopping mall changes will greatly affect sales, if not take them into account, these reference historical data will have a large deviation.

Li Fangfang-Shanghai-Cross-border e-commerce operations. 
Team competencies are not taken into account and the channel structure has changed.

Deng Hua-Shanghai-Buyer of Children’s Wear. 
Some categories which are missing last year will be enlarged in this year. If the degree of amplification is not controlled well, there will be inventory sharing.

Midori-Shanghai-designer. 
Yes, so what is the reasonable choice for historical reference data?

Li Fangfang-Shanghai-Cross-border e-commerce operations. 
Percentage of 80% as a reference to 20% is recommended as a supplement to other anomalies.

Candy-Shanghai multibrand buyer. 
I think there should be a very detailed analysis on the historical data, such as what the specific factors leading to sales rising are, whether this factor will still exist in the next quarter, and whether there are other factors.

Deng Hua-Shanghai-Buyer of Children’s Wear. 
We should not only refer to historical data, but also look at trends.

-Yi Maoban-Shanghai-Wen Lv. 
Will fashion trends affect it?

Candy-Shanghai multibrand buyer. 
If most of the store environment has changed, the data is of little reference value.

Jing Jing-Hangzhou-Jewelry sales. 
Combine the historical data and the surrounding environment together.

Amin-Shenzhen handbag design. 
In the case of performance not particularly good and the pace of previous shipment not very normal, almost it’s impossible to find the reference of the previous planning.

Li Fangfang-Shanghai-Cross-border e-commerce operations.
Should we consider the weight of historical data?

Candy-Shanghai multibrand buyer. 
Yeah, there’s still a lot of variation.

Una-South Africa-former buyer. 
That is to refer to historical data while combining trends with the external environment. Right?

Candy-Shanghai multibrand buyer. 
The weight of historical data requires specific shop analysis. The general environment can almost refer to more, otherwise we should be cautious.

Una-South Africa-former buyer. 
I think this issue of weight cannot be quantified. Who knows how much has changed?

Midori-Shanghai-designer. 
Apart from historical data, is there any problem with cost control?

-Yi Maoban-Shanghai-Wen Lv. 
Cost control should be a very important factor in planning.

Li Fangfang-Shanghai-Cross-border e-commerce operations. 
About how to forecast the cost of the new quarter and the market environment changes, we are relatively uncontrollable.

Una-South Africa-former buyer. 
I think it is a difficult problem to increase fees and charges by multiples and discounts.

Candy-Shanghai multibrand buyer. 
Our company buyers do not need to consider much in this aspect, the range of price increases is certainly fixed. In our company, this mainly depends on the requirements of the management for the company’s gross profit margin.

Li Fangfang-Shanghai-Cross-border e-commerce operations. 
Plus, we’re fixed, too.

Ziwen-Ningbo-ecommerce. 
The reference value of historical data is limited. As for seasons, holidays, the renewal of their own products, the changes of actual operation of the store sales team, it is difficult to say. Changes are based on the actual market, and there is no law in the short term. If the database is relatively large and the content is relatively rich, the reference may be large and the more stable classic product data reference will be a little larger.

Zitong-shanghai-merchandising. 
We also have a fixed rate of increase.

Midori-Shanghai-designer. 
Our company here also first sets a multiple of the increase, sets a retail price tag, and then controls the cost of production.

-Yi Maoban-Shanghai-Wen Lv. 
Isn’t it possible to set a certain range for fare increase multiples? The sales model and cost control of each company should be fixed. Only when the increase multiple is sure will it make money.

Candy-Shanghai multibrand buyer. 
Right. Therefore, I feel that the specific implementation of the buyer here seems to have nothing to do, but control mainly when the activities of discount.

Deng Hua-Shanghai-Buyer of Children’s Wear. 
The rate of increase will vary according to the different types.

Li Fangfang-Shanghai-Cross-border e-commerce operations. 
Control of gross profit rate, right?

Deng Hua-Shanghai-Buyer of Children’s Wear. 
But there’s a bottom line.

Abby-Guangzhou-Merchandising Manager. 
Yes, according to the enterprise gross profit target to specify the increase multiple.

Amin-Shenzhen handbag design. 
Our accessories are prepared in advance after the planning out to control costs. Leathers of handbags account for a high proportion of the cost. Having set the price of fabrics, the cost is relatively easy to control.

-Yi Maoban-Shanghai-Wen Lv. 
Is the float going to be very large, say, 5 for the most part, and then one of the categories becomes 2 or 3?

Una-South Africa-former buyer. 
We used to be buyers who set premium multiples for each style, as long as the average premium multiple was reasonable. Then it’s ok.

But the drawback is:

1. Buyers are doing it entirely on the basis of their own experience.

2. If the price of certain models is too high or too low, it will affect profits.

So, does anyone have the best way?

Midori-Shanghai-designer. 
Floats typically do not exceed 2.

Candy-Shanghai multibrand buyer. 
This depends on whether the style is run or image. Different styles will have some different strategies, but the difference is not big.

Deng Hua-Shanghai-Buyer of Children’s Wear. 
We’ll base it on the positioning of the money.

-Yi Maoban-Shanghai-Wen Lv. 
I think the average premium multiple control is reasonable, after all, there will be consumers feeling that low prices of one category and buy other merchandise by the way.

Midori-Shanghai-designer. 
On this issue, it is generally possible to limit the price band.

Li Fangfang-Shanghai-Cross-border e-commerce operations. 
Have any statistics been made on the changes in the rate of fare increase and the rate of conversion of consumers, and the extent to which they have been affected?

Abby-Guangzhou-Merchandising Manager. 
We usually plan the pricing strategies, that the proportion of high price, middle price and low price segments.

Una-South Africa-former buyer. 
By the way, I remember that the teacher’s curriculum has mentioned the drainage section, the star section, and the image section.

Midori-Shanghai-designer. 
Make the distinction of premium multiple inside different price belt, then be very clear about the fixed position of run quantity paragraph, and the image paragraph.

Merchandising is based on:

1. Sales forecast;

2. Historical sales;

3 consumers’ perceived preferences (consumer instability);

4. Retailer constraints (physical space / market positioning, etc.);

5. External environment (macroeconomic / changing trends in consumer lifestyles, etc.).

If it is an ecommerce platform, we should also consider the time of platform activity and discount dynamics.

 

c. How to plan merchandises (online and offline) according to the different nature of buying them?

 

As the online and offline platforms are different in nature, the merchandising planning of these two platforms should be different as well. The customers online are much more than that  of offline. Thus, the biggest difference between planning in online and offline distributions should be the allocation frequency and the diversity of categories.

Sales attributed by different stores are different as well. For example, flagship stores and Taobao c stores has been allocated different styles and quantity requirements. In general, the brand flagship stores have a shorter sales cycle.

As for merchandising planning, some companies utilize an online-offline mixed strategy. Online platforms are responsible for selling new collection and inventory online when offline platforms take charge of displaying products, building lifestyle concept and communicate with customers. The SKU number online is much bigger than that of offline. Online merchandising content will be detailed designed, including new band SKU number, style length, thickness, fabric properties, and price band.

But some companies utilized a contingent merchandising planning online and offline. They do not have any discount both online and offline, so there is no specific online planning. The strategy online is only selling more of each hot product.

Una-South Africa-former buyer.
The first difference between online and offline, I think it should be “style and quantity”. The online range is larger and the offline range is limited.

Deng Hua-Shanghai-Buyer of Children’s Wear. 
Merchandises online are included many the category-oriented.

Midori-Shanghai-designer. 
Because online merchandises are sold according to platform activities, it is required to be fast in terms of upfront periodicity.

Zitong-shanghai-merchandising. 
I think the biggest difference between online and offline is the frequency and type of stock.

Midori-Shanghai-designer. 
So, how do you differentiate between online and offline merchandising, and what is the difference between what is going on, online or offline?

Amin-Shenzhen handbag design. 
The same brand online and offline planning data base is not the same, and customer groups are not the same.

Li Fangfang-Shanghai-Cross-border e-commerce operations. 
Crowd, merchandise life cycle, loading frequency, replenishment cycle.

Midori-Shanghai-designer. 
So, what are your requirements on the replenishment cycle?

Deng Hua-Shanghai-Buyer of Children’s Wear. 
Online planning is mainly based on the activity of sales data to test the tracking.

Li Fangfang-Shanghai-Cross-border e-commerce operations. 
And promotion.

Deng Hua-Shanghai-Buyer of Children’s Wear. 
If you want to catch up with the sale, you have to prepare the fabric in advance.

Li Fangfang-Shanghai-Cross-border e-commerce operations. 
Yes, I agree.

Una-South Africa-former buyer. 
Then I have to think of the terrible ‘inventory’.

Li Fangfang-Shanghai-Cross-border e-commerce operations. 
Supply chain response is slow. Not preparing inventory, you had better prepare fabric.

Midori-Shanghai-designer. 
Because of online platform, it is the idea that clears stock before. Nowadays does everybody still plan so?

Li Fangfang-Shanghai-Cross-border e-commerce operations. 
Our platform is dominated by new models.

Una-South Africa-former buyer. 
Isn’t the fabric inventory?

Deng Hua-Shanghai-Buyer of Children’s Wear. 
There will be plans to set different discounts according to the old and new items at the time of the activity.

Zitong-shanghai-merchandising. 
Basic fabric can be, or can be prepared for the embryo cloth.

Midori-Shanghai-designer. 
About the merchandising online, what is the difference between the SKU number and the offline merchandising?
Li Fangfang-Shanghai-Cross-border e-commerce operations. 
The number of booths on the line is much larger than that off the line, and the number of booths is infinite.

-Yi Maoban-Shanghai-Wen Lv. 
I think it is more reliable to change the sales model.

Fioriah-Shanghai-Brand and Market expansion. 
We mainly sell new models and digest inventory online while display merchandise and lifestyle offline. In SKU, online is much larger than offline.

Midori-Shanghai-designer. 
Any other suggestions?

Una-South Africa-former buyer. 
I have not done online, but weakly ask: I have seen some online shops but sku is not many, and the category is not complete, but single sales are particularly large. What’s going on here?

Deng Hua-Shanghai-Buyer of Children’s Wear. 
About our online, sku numbers are based on the target amount and volume for the current season. The depth of each category is certain and online may not necessarily be greater than offline.

Una-South Africa-former buyer. 
Is it possible to say that there are two types of online:

1.There is a complete range (of all kinds).

2. Earmarked funds (I sell dresses, or hooded sweatshirt).

Ada- Supervisor-Guangzhou. 
We are selling flat & unsalable money online because the discount is stable at 70%-80% discount on line (except for off-season clearance) so the best-selling model or the newly launched band will not be sold online.

Hangzhou-buyer-Crystal. 
We are online and offline unified, we are not discounted both online and offline, so there is no specific online planning. As far as I understand, there is no strict category structure planning online, but more important thing is the amount of running in a single model.

Deng Hua-Shanghai-Buyer of Children’s Wear. 
More category-oriented.

Midori-Shanghai-designer. 
Planning on line should be divided by the shop attribute. For example, brand flagship stores, Taobao c stores. Different stores have different requirements of style and quantity. In general, the brand flagship stores have a faster new cycle.

Ziwen-Ningbo-ecommerce. 
Online good operation is very powerful, and of course, there must be enough money to support.

Jason-Guangzhou-independent buyer + manager. 
Now a lot of brands because of good online sales, dedicate style to the online team, different from offline merchandises.

Deng Hua-Shanghai-Buyer of Children’s Wear. 
Yes, we have online and offline two separated teams.

Midori-Shanghai-designer. 
Our company is separated from online and offline, and the planning is also carried out separately. Online merchandising content will be specific to platform activities, new band, SKU number, style length, thickness, fabric properties, and price band.

Jason-Guangzhou-independent buyer + manager. 
Many aspects will be considered. For example, the supply chain fast reverse, and development of a big data analysis of user needs and characteristics, should be more based on the reverse sales, rather than based on the traditional design to promote.

Midori-Shanghai-designer. 
So what about offline merchanising planning?

Una-South Africa-former buyer. 
Offline merchandising is more about combining local needs with other factors we’ve discussed before. It is regionalization that is more distinct.

Midori-Shanghai-designer. 
However, in the case of specific operations, there are a normal order and a quick order which have operational differences between the two. The periodicity of a normal order is based on the factors we discussed earlier. As for the planning, a fast order belongs to the type of fast reflection.

Jason-Guangzhou-independent buyer + manager. 
Personal summary: merchandising is selling the merchandises to the right people at the right time, the right place, with the right merchandises, and the right price. It should be a balance, and a rational and emotional combination!

 

The utilization of fur in sustainable fashion

Christine Tsui Fashion Community Group Discussion

The Utilization of Fur in Sustainable Fashion

 

Date:01/05/2018

Time: 8pm to 10pm

Host by Midori-shanghai-designer

Pisces, a post-90s designer with mild obsessive-compulsive disorder, has a strong executive power and a combination of care and patience. Three years local brand designer experience, in the design has its own preference and opinion.

 The outline of discussion:

 

1.  Definition of fur.

1.1What is fur? (10 min)

1.2 Production of genuine fur (20min)

2. The application of fur in the clothing industry.

2.1 What kind of clothes does fur usually make? (20 min)

2.2 How to maintain the clothing of fur? (20 min)

3. The application of fur in society.

3.1 Since the application of dermis involves the killing of animals, how do you think about this problem? 30 (mim)

4. How to get fur into sustainable fashion (30min)

 

Forward

In the fashion industry, the use of animal fur has been controversial. In recent years, many luxury brands have launched calls to reject the use of fur. In addition to the cruelty with which animal fur is used, Will it still have a place in the fashion industry? How to use fur to develop in the field of sustainable fashion?

 

PART ONE: Definition of Fur

 

1. What is fur? 

Fur is the hair covering of non-human (and some human furry) mammals, particularly those mammals with extensive body hair that is soft and thick. The stiffer bristles on animals such as pigs are not generally referred to as fur.

 

The discussion is as follows:

 

Midori-shanghai-designer

What is fur?(10min)

Midori-shanghai-designer

By nature

Midori-shanghai-designer

like this

(pictures come from the web)

Midori-shanghai-designer

Fur is also used to refer to animal pelts which has been processed into leather with the hair still attached. The words fur or furry are also used, more casually, to refer to hair-like growths or formations, particularly When the subject is referred to exhibits a dense coat of fine, soft “hairs”.

Midori-shanghai-designer

If layered, rather than grown as a single coat, it may consist of short down hairs, long guard hairs, and in some cases, medium awn hairs.

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

Ok,that is very complex

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

Very detailed

Midori-shanghai-designer

Our topic Fur refers to the use of animal fur made of clothing ,has a warm effect.

Yohanna

Now many brands use artificial fur

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

Seems that any fur could be made into cloth?

Midori-shanghai-designer

and now the fur is more beautiful and higher prices are also many consumers. Animals such as foxes, rex rabbits , and sheep are all major sources of raw materials for fur.

 

2. Production of Genuine Fur 

There are many kinds of fur classification methods, which can be divided in to early maturity, middle maturity, late maturity and most advanced maturity according to the mature period of the hair.

 

The discussion is as follows: 

 

Midori-shanghai-designer

Fur clothing was first worn during the fourteenth to seventh and is a symbolic garment in European History

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

Means how old the animal is when you kill it?

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

@Midori-shanghai-designer  cool

Midori-shanghai-designer

So we’ll sort it out according to the way the hair is treated.

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

But I will say human like native Indians, Vikings ,and other wear fur for sake of keeping warm .

Midori-shanghai-designer

What kind of fur do you know ?

Midori-shanghai-designer

The need for warmth.

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

How is it with the maturity?

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

I’m interested

Midori-shanghai-designer

No , we’re not talking about skin removal.

Midori-shanghai-designer

According to the processing methods, they can be classified into the tanned, dyeing and finishing classes, shearing Class.

  • According to the appearance characteristics can be divided into thick fur, represented by fox skin; medium-thick fur, represented by molting; thin fur, represented by Persian lambskin.
  • It is more commonly used by people to classify them by the fur and the cortex of the raw material.
  • Small hairy skins: mainly include purple mink, chinchilla (Chrysanthemum, also known as Chrysanthemum) mink skin, mink skin, sea dragon skin, snow fleas, yellow skin, AI tiger skin, chin rat skin, silver skin, Musk skin, beaver skin, raccoon skin, etc.,
  • hair is thin and soft. Suitable for hair caps, coats and so on. Large capillary class: mainly including foxes, raccoon skins, tanned skins, raccoon skins, and raccoon skins. Larger picture. It is often used to make hats, coats, capes, etc.
  • Rough fur: Commonly used sheepskin, dog skin, wolf skin, leopard skin, marmot skin and so on. The hair length and width are slightly larger. Can be used to make hats, coats, vests, clothes, etc.
  • Miscellaneous fur: including cat skin, rabbit skin, etc., suitable for clothing accessories, the price is lower.

Midori-shanghai-designer

That’s my classification of the leather used in clothing.

Midori-shanghai-designer

Do you have another question of fur?

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

Do you have some pictures ?

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

Seadragon skin for example…I can’t really imagine how it looks like

Midori-shanghai-designer

the picture is from sinaweibo

Midori-shanghai-designer

This is Seadragon

 Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

or around the hood  @Alena~Shanghai~AGL damn…how do they hunt these guys down

 Alena~Shanghai~AGL

I guess it is the same like seals

Midori-shanghai-designer

Seadog skin, commonly known as “sea dragon skin”@Alena~Shanghai~AGL

 Alena~Shanghai~AGL

I had no idea they are used for fur to be honest.

 Midori-shanghai-designer

So the use of real leather is cruel.

 

PART TWO: The Application of Fur in Garment Industry 

 

1. What kind of clothes does fur usually make? 

Animal fur is often made into shoes, bags, accessories, coats, sweaters, down jackets, and other clothing. Commonly used are mink hair, rabbit hair, fox hair, wool, hippocampal hair, cattle skin, sheep skin, pig skin, etc.

 

 The discussion is as follows:

 

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

It doesn’t have anything to do with staying warm as they have been other materials invented

Midori-shanghai-designer

Let’s take a look at the history of fur use.

Midori-shanghai-designer

Fur clothing was first worn during the fourteenth to seventh century and is a symbolic garment in European History. The kings and queens of England ordered proclamations to regulate fur aka “sumptuary legislation”.

  • Sumptuary legislation established the stigmatism of Fur association limited to the higher social statuses and convey the idea of exclusivity.
  • Exotic furs such as fox, marten, grey squirrel and ermine were reserved for aristocratic elites. The middle class were known to wear fox, hare and beaver while the less fortunate wore Goat, wolf and sheepskin. Due to clothing being loose and garments were known to be layered, fur was used for visible linings. Different kinds of fur were worn during seasons and social classes. Animals with fur decreased in West Europe and began to be Imported from the Middle East and Russia

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

So it is a historical issue right

Midori-shanghai-designer

The fur at first was used as clothing for the royal family.

 Heather-Wuhan-AGL

Because of its scarcity?

Midori-shanghai-designer

So only noble people wear fur.

 Sailinli-Beijing-Researcher

In ancient China fur was also graded.

Enya.Y-Shanghai-PJ

Represent the power.

Midori-shanghai-designer

Because of the natural warmth of fur and the complexity of making clothes.

Midori-shanghai-designer

Of course ,in ancient hunting ,the fur of a hunted animal was worn as a symbol of victory.

Midori-shanghai-designer

@Enya.Y-Shanghai-PJ   A little symbol of power.

 Midori-shanghai-designer

As new kinds of fur entered Europe, other uses were made with fur other than clothing. Beaver was most desired but used to make hats which became a popular headpiece particularly during the wartime. Swedish soldier wore broad-brimmed hats made exclusive from beaver felt. Due to the limitations of beaver fur, hat-makers relied heavily on North America for imports as beaver was only available in the Scandinavian peninsula.

Midori-shanghai-designer

this is beaver

Enya.Y-Shanghai-PJ

So Cruel

Midori-shanghai-designer

The twentieth century was the beginning of the fur coats being fashionable in West Europe with full fur coats. With lifestyle changes as a result of developments like indoor heating, the international textile trade Affected how fur was distributed around the world. Europeans focused on using local resources giving fur association with femininity with the increasing use of mink. In 1970, Germany was the world’s largest fur market. The International Fur Trade Federation banned endangering species furs like silk monkey, ocelot, leopard, tiger, and polar bear in 1975. The use of animal skins were brought to light during the 1980s by animal right organizations and the demand for fur decreased. Anti-fur organizations increased awareness of the controversy between animal welfare and fashion. Fur farming became banned in Britain in 1999. During the twenty-first century, fox and mink have been bred in captivity with Denmark, Holland and Finland being leaders of mink production.

 

Midori-shanghai-designer

In addition to the fur applications mentioned above,do you know of other fur applications?

Midori-shanghai-designer

Now there are wool,fox hair are used to make cloth.

Midori-shanghai-designer

These furs are usually used in sweater ,sand down jackets.

 

2. How to maintain the clothing of fur? 

 

When placed indoors, for fur clothes:

a. It is best to hang in a dark, low temperature, well ventilated, dry environment.

b. Fur garments should be hung on special hangers with high-necked, wide-shouldered shoulders, and covered with a silk cover, and stored in a closet with air circulation.

c. There should be at least 6 cm space between the fur and other clothes to allow the fur to “breathe”.

d. Do not contaminate fur with other chemicals.5. In the summer, special attention should be paid to avoid high temperature and humidity and insect ant damage.

 

High-grade fur cleaning (mink skin).

Washing powder: Magnesium oxide powder, talcum powder ratio 1:1

Washing method: Spread the fur on the wash case, evenly rub the quilt with a sponge duster, wipe the special soiled part repeatedly, stand for 24 hours, clean the hair powder with a brush, and then put the fur on the portrait on the air mold, the powder was blown clean with an air spray gun, and the hair was straightened with a fine-tooth comb.

 

Ordinary fur cleaning (sheep skin).

Washing solvent: 95% alcohol Common dose: Alcohol 200-250ml

Washing powder: Talc powder Common dosage: Talc 500-1000g

Washing method: Put the fur on the figure air mold, spray the alcohol solvent evenly onto the blanket with an air spray gun, repeatedly rub the hair quilt with a sponge duster, supplement with a gentle rubbing, sweep the hair with a brush Powder, and then use air spray gun to clean the powder, with a sparse comb to the hair to be straight forward to clear the finishing.

 

White plush yellowing treatment.

Washing solution: hydrogen peroxide, water ratio 1:10

Washing method: Put the fur on the figure air mold, spray the solution evenly onto the blanket with an air spray gun, fully wet for 5 minutes, gently brush with a short-haired brushing solution from top to bottom, and finally use a water spray gun to coat the hair. Rinse thoroughly, place in a cool, dry place, and clean the hair in a straight line.

 

The discussion is as follows:

 

Midori-shanghai-designer

Do you know how to tell a hairy garment?

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

By burning?

Midori-shanghai-designer

Then smell it~

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

Just like distinct different fabrics ,does different fur has different smell?

Midori-shanghai-designer

Because there is a lot of wool-like clothing now , it’s not realistic to burn it alone , for the general public.

Midori-shanghai-designer

True wool contains a lot of protein ,and a few fibers are ignited on the clothes . Smell the scent .Look at the ash .If there is a charred scent ,the ash is crushed with a finger ,that is pure wool ;if there is no smell of charred feathers ,Ash pressure is not broken ,ag glomeration , it is chemical fiber fabrics. @Heather-Wuhan-AGL

 

PART THREE: The Application of Fur in Society

1. Since the application of dermis involves the killing of animals, how do you think about this problem? 

Fur used a lot of chemicals in the production process for degreasing and cleaning, such as formaldehyde. Damage to the surrounding water quality and the environment. This is contrary to the current concept of low-carbon environmental protection.

Some people have suggested that “for a piece of clothing, whether or not animals should be given a cruel price,” so-called no-buy, no harm, how consumers should take action?

 

The discussion is as follows:

 

Midori-shanghai-designer

Some people indiscriminately kill wild animals in the drive of their interests, leaving some rare wild animals on the verge of extinction,anyone agree that?

Midori-shanghai-designer

With the increase of human morality and civilization, the concept of environmental protection has received more and more attention. Fur and environmental protection have become the subject of constant controversy. What do you think?

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

sustainable sourcing

 Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

can real fur sourcing be ethical and sustainable?

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

Well I guess everybody agree

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

As long as it means killing a living creature

Midori-shanghai-designer

also,fur used a lot of chemicals in the production process for degreasing and cleaning, such as formaldehyde. Damage to the surrounding water quality and the environment. This is contrary to the current concept of low-carbon environmental protection.

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

fur has been part of humanity society since early homo sapiens.

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

And there have been so many leaked videos about the conditions of the animals.

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

so no real fur will be change of our mindset

Midori-shanghai-designer

Besides, if you don’t have real fur, will you be wearing fur imitation clothes?

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

Yes, but back then the fur was used for survival reasons

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

keep warmth

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

Yes

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

fur is excellent on this

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

Of course

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

like duck or Goose down

 Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

also wool is a superior fiber

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

But aren’t other materials now very good in keeping us warm as well?

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

not as good

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

down is breathable

Midori-shanghai-designer

But will the production of imitation fur also cause pollution to the environment?

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

Yes it will

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

Now there is a question what is better

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

In terms of protecting the environment

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

all those polyester based padding doesnt breath so well and not easy to have same level of warmth but technology is improving

Midori-shanghai-designer

Some people have suggested that “for a piece of clothing, whether or not animals should be given a cruel price,” so-called no-buy, no harm, how consumers should take action.

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

It depends much on consumers’ attitude

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

we should focus on low impact on the environment and longevity of the product

 Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

So , whatever we do we impact the environment as little as possible for sustainable living for mankind @Alena~Shanghai~AGL reused

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

Can fur be recycled?

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

for sure

 Midori-shanghai-designer

So, in recent years, many brands have called for a boycott of fur. Does this work?

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

@Midori-shanghai-designer when u boycott . somebody somewhere may Lose their job

 

PART FOUR: How to get fur into sustainable fashion

 

a. Finding new ways to produce textiles 

b. Natural furs from wild hunting and farming are sustainable

 

The discussion is as follows:

 

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

everyone do their part… step by step approach

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

reuse old fur

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

yes,especially farm consumers,every one of us

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

use fur that related to food industry?

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

You use the fur of the animals that is used for food industry…

Midori-shanghai-designer

Finding new ways to produce textiles

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

Also an option

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

@Alena~Shanghai~AGL yea that can have lower impact

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

True

 Midori-shanghai-designer

Different ways of producing and processing materials means that they have different effects on the environment. As we all know, there are risks in the production of petroleum compounds, such as the pollution from the chemical refining process to the toxic chemicals emitted during the production of chemical fiber fabrics. However, there are deficiencies in each fabric, including organic fabrics. For example, traditional methods of cotton cultivation use large amounts of water, synthetic fertilizers, and pesticides, which also destroy the habitat of wild animals. In the case of agricultural farming, waste treatment also needs to be considered. Another consideration is the environmental impact of raw materials and garments. Clothing entirely produced and sold locally has less impact on the environment than garments produced and sold in multiple locations, such as the production of chemical fiber garments, oil drilling in the Gulf of Mexico, processing into fabrics in China, sewing in Vietnam, and then selling in Europe.

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

But there wouldn’t be sufficient supply

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

price would go up and more pepole would enter

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

And there we go again

Midori-shanghai-designer

sorry,this is too long

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

There should be only a law enforcement

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

and may lead to more animal getting killed

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

Viciouscircl

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

Circle

Midori-shanghai-designer

Some people think that farmed fur is also environmentally friendly

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

sustainable living for mankind and sustainable economic growth

Midori-shanghai-designer

Materials can be divided into two categories: organic materials (plants and animals) and inorganic materials (coal, petroleum, ore, etc.).

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

I just wish there weren’t those Russian fur farms where the skin the animals alive and leave them to die

Midori-shanghai-designer

Organic materials are sustainable because they can be regenerated; plants and animals can continue to grow and can be continuously replenished. Common in clothing are cotton, linen, bamboo, wool, natural fur, down and leather. Inorganic materials are not sustainable because they cannot be regenerated; once they are consumed, they really disappear, unless more inorganic materials can be found. Important inorganic materials used in chemical fiber clothing are synthesized from petroleum such as acrylic and polyester.

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

@Midori-shanghai-designer goes back to sustainable farming

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

controlled forest

Midori-shanghai-designer

Natural fur farming, like other animal husbandry, is inherently sustainable because farmers can decide on the number of animals to feed based on market conditions

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

@Midori-shanghai-designer u always need to predict

Midori-shanghai-designer

We can indirectly believe that aquaculture is actually conducive to wild hunting because of the high demand for farmed animals while reducing the pressure of wild hunting.

Midori-shanghai-designer

Fur farming also minimizes the impact on the environment through other means, such as the use of human food residues for animal feeding; the use of manure as agricultural organic fertilizers; and the conversion of carcasses into biofuels.

Midori-shanghai-designer

and what do you think about it?

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

@Midori-shanghai-designer is good start

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

Hmmm I guess

Midori-shanghai-designer

Natural fur is one of the most sustainable materials on the planet. It comes from the sustainable production of natural materials, uses rather gentle production processes, and ultimately makes durable and recyclable garments that provide decades of warmth. After being comfortable, it will eventually be fully biodegraded.

Midori-shanghai-designer

Of course, I know what you are thinking: The truth about natural fur (Truth About Fur website) promotes natural fur, so it is not surprising that we praise it.

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

what about the use of artificial fur?

Midori-shanghai-designer

Although artificial leather is considered to be friendly to animals, its production process and non-recyclable and non-degradable properties are also indirectly harmful to the environment .@Heather-Wuhan-AGL

Christine-Shanghai-Group founder

to get fur farm animals is also a solution for ecology system.

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

@Alena~Shanghai~AGL we are getting more and more sustainable which is a good direction

Midori-shanghai-designer

These chemical fiber garments will be sent to landfills when they are abandoned. The resulting tiny plastic particles will then damage our oceans.

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

i have a PLA based poly bag is my office and is biodegradable but…getting thinner and thinner every time I show people.

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

that’s interesting

Midori-shanghai-designer

But if the clothing material we produce has a high durability of 3-5 years, it may reduce the degradation pressure.

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

I see

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

PLA is from corn starch and if everything turns into PLA then will compete with our food source…means more farmland?

Midori-shanghai-designer

@Vincent-shanghai-Incubator  interesting

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

@Midori-shanghai-designer so how do brands have a sustainable business model?

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

sustainability is not just environmental impact and working condition

Midori-shanghai-designer

Does the brand do the recycling of this part of the sustainable business model like h&m

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

@Midori-shanghai-designer they certainly can

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

i am going send my scrap polyester fabrics to recyclers to make recycled polyester yarns

Midori-shanghai-designer

But not many brands have the same ability to handle these used clothes as they do with H & M.

Midori-shanghai-designer

about the topic How to get fur into sustainable fashion my conclusion is

  1. Natural furs from wild hunting and farming are sustainable
  2. Finding new ways to produce textiles

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Discussion of the original text:

Midori-shanghai-designer

How to get fur into sustainable fashion(30min)

Midori-shanghai-designer

What is fur?(10min)

Midori-shanghai-designer

By nature

Midori-shanghai-designer

Fur is the hair covering of non-human (and some human furry) mammals,

particularly those mammals with extensive body hair that is soft and thick.

The stiffer bristles on animals such as pigs are not generally referred to as fur.

Midori-shanghai-designer

like this

Midori-shanghai-designer

Fur is also used to refer to animal pelts which has been processed into leather with the hair still attached. The words fur or furry are also used, more casually, to refer to hair-like growths or formations, particularly When the subject is referred to exhibits a dense coat of fine, soft “hairs”.

Midori-shanghai-designer

If layered, rather than grown as a single coat, it may consist of short down hairs, long guard hairs, and in some cases, medium awn hairs.

 

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

Ok,that is very complex

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

Very detailed

Midori-shanghai-designer

Our topic Fur refers to the use of animal fur made of clothing ,has a warm effect.

Yohanna

Now many brands use artificial fur

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

Seems that any fur could be made into cloth?

Midori-shanghai-designer

and now the fur is more beautiful and higher prices are also many consumers . Animals such as foxes , rex rabbits , and sheep are all major sources of raw materials for fur.

Midori-shanghai-designer

So let’s start the next ~

Midori-shanghai-designer

Production of genuine fur (20min)

Midori-shanghai-designer

Fur clothing was first worn during the fourteenth to seventh and is a symbolic garment in European History

Midori-shanghai-designer

There are many kinds of fur classification methods ,which can be divided in to early maturity ,middle maturity ,late maturity and most advanced maturity according to the mature period of the hair.

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

Means how old the animal is when you kill it?

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

@Midori-shanghai-designer  cool

Midori-shanghai-designer

So we’ll sort it out according to the way the hair is treated.

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

But I will say human like native Indians , Vikings ,and other wear fur for sake of keeping warm .

Midori-shanghai-designer

What kind of fur do you know ?

Midori-shanghai-designer

The need for warmth.

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

How is it with the maturity?

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

I’m interested

Midori-shanghai-designer

No , we’re not talking about skin removal.

Midori-shanghai-designer

According to the processing methods, they can be classified into the tanned, dyeing and finishing classes, shearing Class.

  • According to the appearance characteristics can be divided into thick fur, represented by fox skin; medium-thick fur, represented by molting; thin fur, represented by Persian lambskin.
  • It is more commonly used by people to classify them by the fur and the cortex of the raw material.
  • Small hairy skins: mainly include purple mink, chinchilla (Chrysanthemum, also known as Chrysanthemum) mink skin, mink skin, sea dragon skin, snow fleas, yellow skin, AI tiger skin, chin rat skin, silver skin, Musk skin, beaver skin, raccoon skin, etc.,
  • hair is thin and soft. Suitable for hair caps, coats and so on. Large capillary class: mainly including foxes, raccoon skins, tanned skins, raccoon skins, and raccoon skins. Larger picture. It is often used to make hats, coats, capes, etc.
  • Rough fur: Commonly used sheepskin, dog skin, wolf skin, leopard skin, marmot skin and so on. The hair length and width are slightly larger. Can be used to make hats, coats, vests, clothes, etc.
  • Miscellaneous fur: including cat skin, rabbit skin, etc., suitable for clothing accessories, the price is lower.

Midori-shanghai-designer

That’s my classification of the leather used in clothing.

Midori-shanghai-designer

Do you have another question of fur?

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

Do you have some pictures ?

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

Seadragon skin for example…I can’t really imagine how it looks like

Midori-shanghai-designer

the picture is from sinaweibo

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

Raccoon is popular

Midori-shanghai-designer

This is the Sea dragon skin made for coat

Midori-shanghai-designer

What kind of products do raccoons usually use ? @Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

What animal is it?

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

@Midori-shanghai-designer fur collar

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

No way!

Midori-shanghai-designer

This is Seadragon

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

or around the hood  @Alena~Shanghai~AGL damn…how do they hunt these guys down

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

I guess it is the same like seals

Midori-shanghai-designer

Seadog skin, commonly known as “sea dragon skin”@Alena~Shanghai~AGL

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

I had no idea they are used for fur to be honest.

Midori-shanghai-designer

So the use of real leather is cruel.

Midori-shanghai-designer

The next~

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

Indeed!

Midori-shanghai-designer

The application of fur in the clothing industry.

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

Well yes.

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

The clothing it is just for greed

Enya.Y-Shanghai-PJ

Oh my god,I really cannot imagine that

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

It doesn’t have anything to do with staying warm as they have been other materials invented

Midori-shanghai-designer

Let’s take a look at the history of fur use.

Midori-shanghai-designer

Fur clothing was first worn during the fourteenth to seventh century and is a symbolic garment in European History. The kings and queens of England ordered proclamations to regulate fur aka “sumptuary legislation”.

  • Sumptuary legislation established the stigmatism of Fur association limited to the higher social statuses and convey the idea of exclusivity.
  • Exotic furs such as fox, marten, grey squirrel and ermine were reserved for aristocratic elites. The middle class were known to wear fox, hare and beaver while the less fortunate wore Goat, wolf and sheepskin. Due to clothing being loose and garments were known to be layered, fur was used for visible linings. Different kinds of fur were worn during seasons and social classes. Animals with fur decreased in West Europe and began to be Imported from the Middle East and Russia

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

So it is a historical issue right

Midori-shanghai-designer

The fur at first was used as clothing for the royal family.

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

Because of its scarcity?

Midori-shanghai-designer

So only noble people wear fur.

Sailinli-Beijing-Researcher

In ancient China fur was also graded.

Enya.Y-Shanghai-PJ

Represent the power.

Midori-shanghai-designer

Because of the natural warmth of fur and the complexity of making clothes.

Midori-shanghai-designer

Of course ,in ancient hunting ,the fur of a hunted animal was worn as a symbol of victory.

Midori-shanghai-designer

@Enya.Y-Shanghai-PJ   A little symbol of power.

Midori-shanghai-designer

As new kinds of fur entered Europe, other uses were made with fur other than clothing. Beaver was most desired but used to make hats which became a popular headpiece particularly during the wartime. Swedish soldier wore broad-brimmed hats made exclusive from beaver felt. Due to the limitations of beaver fur, hat-makers relied heavily on North America for imports as beaver was only available in the Scandinavian peninsula.

 

Midori-shanghai-designer

this is beaver

Enya.Y-Shanghai-PJ

So Cruel

Midori-shanghai-designer

The twentieth century was the beginning of the fur coats being fashionable in West Europe with full fur coats. With lifestyle changes as a result of developments like indoor heating, the international textile trade Affected how fur was distributed around the world. Europeans focused on using local resources giving fur association with femininity with the increasing use of mink. In 1970, Germany was the world’s largest fur market. The International Fur Trade Federation banned endangering species furs like silk monkey, ocelot, leopard, tiger, and polar bear in 1975. The use of animal skins were brought to light during the 1980s by animal right organizations and the demand for fur decreased. Anti-fur organizations increased awareness of the controversy between animal welfare and fashion. Fur farming became banned in Britain in 1999. During the twenty-first century, fox and mink have been bred in captivity with Denmark, Holland and Finland being leaders of mink production.

 

Midori-shanghai-designer

In addition to the fur applications mentioned above ,do you know of other fur applications?

Midori-shanghai-designer

Now there are wool ,fox hair are used to make cloth

Midori-shanghai-designer

These furs are usually used in sweater ,sand down jackets

Midori-shanghai-designer

Do you know how to tell a hairy garment?

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

By burning?

Midori-shanghai-designer

right~

Midori-shanghai-designer

Then smell it~

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

Just like distinct different fabrics ,does different fur has different smell?

Midori-shanghai-designer

Because there is a lot of wool-like clothing now , it’s not realistic to burn it alone , for the general public.

Midori-shanghai-designer

True wool contains a lot of protein ,and a few fibers are ignited on the clothes . Smell the scent .Look at the ash .If there is a charred scent ,the ash is crushed with a finger ,that is pure wool ;if there is no smell of charred feathers ,Ash pressure is not broken ,ag glomeration , it is chemical fiber fabrics. @Heather-Wuhan-AGL

 

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

Thank you.

Midori-shanghai-designer

And I don’t know how to distinguish other furs.

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

That’s interesting

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

@Midori-shanghai-designer a lot of recycled wool also in the market

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

And also have recycled duck down

Midori-shanghai-designer

Wow the recycled duck down?

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

yep

Midori-shanghai-designer

Use it to make Down jacket ?

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

yep

Midori-shanghai-designer

And the duvet quilt?

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

yep

Midori-shanghai-designer

How do you recycle and reuse duck down?

Midori-shanghai-designer

Is the way of recycling complicated? @Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

u collect used down jacket

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

i dont know the detail method

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

but i know people who does that

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

and there is also US companies supplied recycled down

Midori-shanghai-designer

Okay .but thank you to tell us that method~

Midori-shanghai-designer

I’ll share some of your common fur care tips.

Enya.Y-Shanghai-PJ

Thank u

Midori-shanghai-designer

When placed indoors, for fur clothes

1.It is best to hang in a dark, low temperature, well ventilated, dry environment.

2.Fur garments should be hung on special hangers with high-necked, wide-shouldered shoulders, and covered with a silk cover, and stored in a closet with air circulation.

3.There should be at least 6 cm space between the fur and other clothes to allow the fur to “breathe”.

4.Do not contaminate fur with other chemicals.5. In the summer, special attention should be paid to avoid high temperature and humidity and insect ant damage.

Midori-shanghai-designer

High-grade fur cleaning (mink skin).

Washing powder: Magnesium oxide powder, talcum powder ratio 1:1

Washing method: Spread the fur on the wash case, evenly rub the quilt with a sponge duster, wipe the special soiled part repeatedly, stand for 24 hours, clean the hair powder with a brush, and then put the fur on the portrait on the air mold, the powder was blown clean with an air spray gun, and the hair was straightened with a fine-tooth comb.

Midori-shanghai-designer

Ordinary fur cleaning (sheep skin).

Washing solvent: 95% alcohol Common dose: Alcohol 200-250ml

Washing powder: Talc powder Common dosage: Talc 500-1000g

Washing method: Put the fur on the figure air mold, spray the alcohol solvent evenly onto the blanket with an air spray gun, repeatedly rub the hair quilt with a sponge duster, supplement with a gentle rubbing, sweep the hair with a brush Powder, and then use air spray gun to clean the powder, with a sparse comb to the hair to be straight forward to clear the finishing.

Midori-shanghai-designer

White plush yellowing treatment.

Washing solution: hydrogen peroxide, water ratio 1:10

Washing method: Put the fur on the figure air mold, spray the solution evenly onto the blanket with an air spray gun, fully wet for 5 minutes, gently brush with a short-haired brushing solution from top to bottom, and finally use a water spray gun to coat the hair. Rinse thoroughly, place in a cool, dry place, and clean the hair in a straight line.

Midori-shanghai-designer

These are the methods of care and washing for the kinds of furs we wear on a daily basis.

Midori-shanghai-designer

If you don’t have any questions about this, let’s move on to the next topic, which may be of interest to you.

Midori-shanghai-designer

The application of fur in society.

Midori-shanghai-designer

Since the application of dermis involves the killing of animals, how do you think about this problem? (30 min)

Midori-shanghai-designer

Some people indiscriminately kill wild animals in the drive of their interests, leaving some rare wild animals on the verge of extinction,anyone agree that?

Midori-shanghai-designer

With the increase of human morality and civilization, the concept of environmental protection has received more and more attention. Fur and environmental protection have become the subject of constant controversy. What do you think?

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

sustainable sourcing

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

can real fur sourcing be ethical and sustainable?

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

Well I guess everybody agree

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

That’s what is going on

Midori-shanghai-designer

That’s what’s at issue.

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

Fur is so unnecessary

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

I don’t think so

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

As long as it means killing a living creature

Midori-shanghai-designer

also,fur used a lot of chemicals in the production process for degreasing and cleaning, such as formaldehyde. Damage to the surrounding water quality and the environment. This is contrary to the current concept of low-carbon environmental protection.

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

fur has been part of humanity society since early homo sapiens.

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

And there have been so many leaked videos about the conditions of the animals.

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

so no real fur will be change of our mindset

Midori-shanghai-designer

Besides, if you don’t have real fur, will you be wearing fur imitation clothes?

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

Yes, but back then the fur was used for survival reasons

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

keep warmth

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

Yes

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

fur is excellent on this

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

Of course

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

like duck or Goose down

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

also wool is a superior fiber

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

But aren’t other materials now very good in keeping us warm as well?

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

not as good

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

down is breathable

Midori-shanghai-designer

But will the production of imitation fur also cause pollution to the environment?

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

Yes it will

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

Now there is a question what is better

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

In terms of protecting the environment

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

all those polyester based padding doesnt breath so well and not easy to have same level of warmth but technology is improving

Midori-shanghai-designer

Some people have suggested that “for a piece of clothing, whether or not animals should be given a cruel price,” so-called no-buy, no harm, how consumers should take action.

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

It depends much on consumers’ attitude

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

we should focus on low impact on the environment and longevity of the product

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

So , whatever we do we impact the environment as little as possible for sustainable living for mankind @Alena~Shanghai~AGL reused

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

Can fur be recycled?

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

for sure

Midori-shanghai-designer

So,inrecentyears,manybrandshavecalledforaboycottoffur.Doesthiswork So, in recent years, many brands have called for a boycott of fur. Does this work?

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

@Midori-shanghai-designer when u boycott . somebody somewhere may Lose their job

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

Doesn’t it get bad with age

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

?

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

@Alena~Shanghai~AGL depends on your care

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

just think low impact

Midori-shanghai-designer

yep~~

Midori-shanghai-designer

so,how to get fur into sustainable fashion (30min)

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

everyone do their part… step by step approach

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

reuse old fur

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

yes,especially farm consumers,every one of us

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

use fur that related to food industry?

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

How?

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

You use the fur of the animals that is used for food industry…

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

@Heather-Wuhan-AGL not sure i am not familiar

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

?

Midori-shanghai-designer

Finding new ways to produce textiles

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

Also an option

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

@Alena~Shanghai~AGL yea that can have lower impact

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

True

Midori-shanghai-designer

Different ways of producing and processing materials means that they have different effects on the environment. As we all know, there are risks in the production of petroleum compounds, such as the pollution from the chemical refining process to the toxic chemicals emitted during the production of chemical fiber fabrics. However, there are deficiencies in each fabric, including organic fabrics. For example, traditional methods of cotton cultivation use large amounts of water, synthetic fertilizers, and pesticides, which also destroy the habitat of wild animals. In the case of agricultural farming, waste treatment also needs to be considered. Another consideration is the environmental impact of raw materials and garments. Clothing entirely produced and sold locally has less impact on the environment than garments produced and sold in multiple locations, such as the production of chemical fiber garments, oil drilling in the Gulf of Mexico, processing into fabrics in China, sewing in Vietnam, and then selling in Europe.

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

But there wouldn’t be sufficient supply

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

yeah

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

price would go up and more ppl would enter

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

And there we go again

Midori-shanghai-designer

sorry,this is too long

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

There should be only a law enforcement

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

and may lead to more animal getting killed

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

@Alena~Shanghai~AGL u know what this leads to hahah

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

Haha

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

Sure

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

Viciouscircl

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

Circle

Midori-shanghai-designer

Some people think that farmed fur is also environmentally friendly

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

sustainable living for mankind and sustainable economic growth

Midori-shanghai-designer

Materials can be divided into two categories: organic materials (plants and animals) and inorganic materials (coal, petroleum, ore, etc.).

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

I just wish there weren’t those Russian fur farms where the skin the animals alive and leave them to die

Midori-shanghai-designer

Organic materials are sustainable because they can be regenerated; plants and animals can continue to grow and can be continuously replenished. Common in clothing are cotton, linen, bamboo, wool, natural fur, down and leather. Inorganic materials are not sustainable because they cannot be regenerated; once they are consumed, they really disappear, unless more inorganic materials can be found. Important inorganic materials used in chemical fiber clothing are synthesized from petroleum such as acrylic and polyester.

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

@Alena~Shanghai~AGL yeah,that’s the most cruel part

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

@Midori-shanghai-designer goes back to sustainable farming

Midori-shanghai-designer

yep

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

controlled forest

Midori-shanghai-designer

Natural fur farming, like other animal husbandry, is inherently sustainable because farmers can decide on the number of animals to feed based on market conditions

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

@Midori-shanghai-designer u always need to predict

Midori-shanghai-designer

We can indirectly believe that aquaculture is actually conducive to wild hunting because of the high demand for farmed animals while reducing the pressure of wild hunting.

Midori-shanghai-designer

Fur farming also minimizes the impact on the environment through other means, such as the use of human food residues for animal feeding; the use of manure as agricultural organic fertilizers; and the conversion of carcasses into biofuels.

Midori-shanghai-designer

and what do you think about it?

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

@Midori-shanghai-designer is good start

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

Hmmm I guess

Midori-shanghai-designer

Natural fur is one of the most sustainable materials on the planet. It comes from the sustainable production of natural materials, uses rather gentle production processes, and ultimately makes durable and recyclable garments that provide decades of warmth. After being comfortable, it will eventually be fully biodegraded.

Midori-shanghai-designer

Of course, I know what you are thinking: The truth about natural fur (Truth About Fur website) promotes natural fur, so it is not surprising that we praise it.

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

what about the use of artificial fur?

Midori-shanghai-designer

Although artificial leather is considered to be friendly to animals, its production process and non-recyclable and non-degradable properties are also indirectly harmful to the environment .@Heather-Wuhan-AGL

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

Is there any other solution then getting sustainable!

Christine-Shanghai-Group founder

true. no perfect leather

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

@Midori-shanghai-designer they are making bio based leather

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

like modern meadows

Christine-Shanghai-Group founder

to get fur farm animals is also a solution for ecology system.

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

@Alena~Shanghai~AGL we are getting more and more sustainable which is a good direction

Midori-shanghai-designer

These chemical fiber garments will be sent to landfills when they are abandoned. The resulting tiny plastic particles will then damage our oceans.

Christine-Shanghai-Group founder

yes.

Midori-shanghai-designer

@Vincent-shanghai-Incubator  Is this biodegradable?

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

@Midori-shanghai-designer well i dont see this a long term solution

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

people r working towards solving problems by having less landfills

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

@Midori-shanghai-designer not sure how long will take for fully biodegradable

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

compose is not a good solution cause not long lasting

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

i have a PLA based poly bag is my office and is biodegradable but…getting thinner and thinner every time I show people.

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

that’s interesting

Midori-shanghai-designer

But if the clothing material we produce has a high durability of 3-5 years, it may reduce the degradation pressure.

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

I see

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

PLA is from corn starch and if everything turns into PLA then will compete with our food source…means more farmland?

Midori-shanghai-designer

@Vincent-shanghai-Incubator  interesting

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

@Midori-shanghai-designer so how do brands have a sustainable business model?

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

sustainability is not just environmental impact and working condition

Midori-shanghai-designer

Does the brand do the recycling of this part of the sustainable business model like h&m

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

@Midori-shanghai-designer they certainly can

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

i am going send my scrap polyester fabrics to recyclers to make recycled polyester yarns

Midori-shanghai-designer

But not many brands have the same ability to handle these used clothes as they do with H & M.

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

@Midori-shanghai-designer is not that hard

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

if any local brands want to do it i can help

Midori-shanghai-designer

@Vincent-shanghai-Incubator -shanghai-Incubator expect that

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

@Midori-shanghai-designer h&m outsource this to another company I collect

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

as long as u have the mindset to take the initiate step

Midori-shanghai-designer

I learned. Your offer was good .@Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

key is take 1st step and collaborate

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

Wow

Alena~Shanghai~AGL

That’s interesting @Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

Midori-shanghai-designer

about the topic How to get fur into sustainable fashion my conclusion is

  1. Natural furs from wild hunting and farming are sustainable
  2. Finding new ways to produce textiles

thanks to join in the discussion!

 

 

How do Chinese celebrities run their fashion business?

Event

Date: April,14,2018

Time: 8pm to 10pm

Subject of discussion: How do Chinese celebrities run their fashion business?

Host: Oran Kang-Shanghai-Senior merchandize of apparels.

Brief Introduction of the host:

Oran Kang has engaged in apparel buying business for over 10 years. Currently she serves in a buying office of a Spanish department store in Shanghai.

She has rich knowledge in working with European major brands, developing diverse product lines and sourcing and selecting suppliers that provide competitive prices and good quality of goods in China and South Asia.

Part One: BRIEF INTRODUCTION OF DISCUSSION

Nowadays the idea of a “slash” identification has gained momentum in China. People act different social roles. When we talk about the celebrities, they are not only the ones famous in entertainment circle, also can be stars in fashion business field.

A good example is Victoria Beckham, a famous singer but also successfully launched her career in fashion business field.

This discussion focused on Chinese celebrities mainly, we also appreciate that you can share with us any good cases from your countries.

Part Two: OUTLINE OF DISCUSSION

1. Sharing about the stories of Chinese celebrities who have succeeded in fashion business.

** Wilber Pan who is a singer, songwriter, rapper, actor.

** Nic Li who is a Chinese host.

They have collaborated and ventured into the business world. In 2009, they launched the streetwear boutique N.P.C (New Project Center)

** Ryan Zheng is an actor and signer, who is also an entrepreneur into fashion business, as he has established his own brands of Dueplay and Dahood with product line of clothing, shoes and other accessories.

** Show Lo(Lo zhi xiang) is a singer also running his clothing brand STAGE(STAGE Hyaline of World)..

Good points from discussion:

Vincent-Shanghai- Incubator:

Kate Hudson is a good example

Eva Longoria is doing well in fashion business as well.

 

Alena-Shanghai-AGL:

Christina Aguilera has a perfume brand.

Rosie Huntington has her own underwear line for Marc&Spencer.

Heather-Christine Tsui Fashion community:

To have a slash career is also what I am working on it and I believe that this is the trend of the new generation.

Alena-Shanghai-AGL:

I aware of some celebrities who also work as influencers on Instagram and they have the different agreement with the brands as a side business.

Vanessa-Gangzhou-Couture:

CLOT is a streetwear label and lifestyle brand founded by Edison Chen and Kevin Poon aimed to bridge Eastern and Western. And it is quite popular among young people.

2. What are advantages for celebrities to do fashion business?

** Varies financial channels

** Rich connections with a range of areas

** Potential consumers in fans

Good points from discussion:

Heather-Christine Tsui Fashion community:

They have media exposure which could bring them many biz opportunities

Natalie-Xiamen-Analyst:

The public image of some or even most celebrities are created by professional company and staff, it is a luck for those who can show their true colors to public and even make money from the events.

 

Vincent-Shanghai- Incubator:

They have personal branding management team.

P.Joy-Mel bone-Master of fashion

Yes agree celebrity does it more for brand image. They know they have fans who will support them as well. Otherwise when you think what is a connection from a singer to open a fashion brand or sort of business? They don’t even have the knowledge or experience. But they have money, they have loyal costumer where they rely on them and know they would buy.

3. How do they develop products in China?

In general, there are two ways to launch products in China:

OEM(Original Equipment Manufacturer). It is the most common way for major brands to cooperate with manufactures. Brands provide designs, fabrics and raw materials and manufactures are responsible for production.

ODM(Original design manufacture). It means manufactures produce goods ordered as well as develop original designs for brands to choose. This way is getting more and more popular.

Nowadays, fashion business cluster is pushing Chinese manufactures to be more creative. OEM cannot survive anymore, so the celebrities are becoming the leaders who collaborate with manufactures to make initial designs together. They authorize the copyrights of their names and images to third-party companies who will work with manufactures to develop designs and produce merchandises.

EXAMPLE 1: DUEPLAY was founded in 2014 by Ryan Zheng, who has launched the product line with “P” logo on the clothes, shoes and caps. It is getting very popular in China. DUEPLAY also launched a product line of sweatshirts with chicken pattern in Chinese Red in the year of the Rooster. This enhanced the enthusiasm of netizens, especially the ones whose birth year are the Rooster.

EXAMPLE 2 : NPC(New Project Center) is a buying store run by two celebrities(Nic Li, Wilber Pan), now their stores are located in major cities in China. The first store was launched in July of 2009 to sell the most fashionable garments and accessories.

Good points from discussion:

Vincent-Shanghai- Incubator:

They have money and personal brand image to have a head start and license by leverage their own personal brands.

Julie-Shanghai-High-end retail:

I think celebrities do business is just like others who have resources and enter into business, the difference is the kind of resources.

4. What we can learn from their successful cases?

** Celebrities cherish their images and good reputations as their lives, so we can learn the importance for new brands to build up positive images.

** Celebrities rely on professional team to make business stronger.

** Celebrities have richer relationship network than us, but we can also try to expand our social circle and make more connections.

** Celebrities can cooperate with brands to get win-win benefits. As for individual business people, they can also collaborate small brands to build stronger group cohesiveness.

Good points from discussion:

Alena-Shanghai-AGL:

Yes, network is so important.

Heather-Christine Tsui Fashion community:

Good cooperation has a great power.

Grace-Shanghai-Media:

We can learn a lot from the successful cases and it would helpful for us to make our own fashion business.

Part Three: A BRIEF RECAP OF OUR DISCUSSION

1. We shared the stories of Chinese celebrities who have succeeded in fashion business.

** Wilber Pan, Nic Li and Ryan Zheng are successful models.

2. What are the celebrities’ advantages when they run a new business?

**Varies financial channels
**Rich connections with a range of areas
**Potential consumers in fans
**media exposure could bring them many business opportunities

3. How do they develop products in China?
** OEM and ODM are two common ways to produce the products for brands.

4. What we can learn from their successful cases?
** Celebrities maintains positive images to the public, so we can learn that our brands also needs a positive image.
** Celebrities have richer relationship network, but we can also try to expand our social circle and make more connections.

**Celebrities can cooperate with brands to get win-win benefits. As for individual business people, they can also collaborate small brands to build stronger group cohesiveness.

 

SUMMARY INFORMATION FOR DISCUSSION

Oran-Host- Shanghai-Senior Merchandizer:

Can you pls share about the stories of Chinese celebrities who have succeeded in fashion business?

 

Vincent-Shanghai- Incubator:

Kate Hudson is a good example

Eva Longoria is doing well in fashion business as well.

 

Alena-Shanghai-AGL:

Christina Aguilera has a perfume brand.

Rosie Huntington has her own underwear line for Marc&Spencer.

Heather-Christine Tsui Fashion community:

To have a slash career is also what I am working on it and I believe that this is the trend of the new generation.

Alena-Shanghai-AGL:

I aware of some celebrities who also work as influencers on Instagram and they have different agreement with the brands as a side business.

Oran-Host- Shanghai-Senior Merchandizer:

What do you think of advantages of celebrities to do fashion business?

Heather-Christine Tsui Fashion community:

They have media exposure which could bring them many biz opportunities

Natalie-Xiamen-Analyst:

The public image of some or even most celebrities are created by professional company and staff, it is a luck for those who can show their true colors to public and even make money from the events.

 

Vincent-Shanghai- Incubator:

They have personal branding management team.

P.Joy-Mel bone-Master of fashion

Yes agree celebrity does it more for brand image. They know they have fans who will support them as well. Otherwise when you think what is a connection from a singer to open a fashion brand or sort of business? They don’t even have the knowledge or experience. But they have money, they have loyal costumer where they rely on them and know they would buy.

Oran-Host- Shanghai-Senior Merchandizer:

Let check how do they work out the product in China?

Vincent-Shanghai- Incubator:

They have money and personal brand image to have a head start and license by leverage their own personal brands.

Julie-Shanghai-High-end retail:

I think celebrities do business is just like others who have resources and enter into business, the difference is the kind of resources.

Oran-Host- Shanghai-Senior Merchandizer:

What we can learn from their successful cases?

Natalie-Xiamen-Analyst:

Celebrities cherish their images and good reputations as their lives, so we can learn how important for new brands to build up positive images.

Julie-Shanghai-High-end retail:

Celebrities rely on professional team to make business stronger.

Alena-Shanghai-AGL:

Celebrities have rich relation network, which we don’t have, but we can also try to increase our social circle to recognize more people.

Grace-Shanghai-Media:

Celebrities can cooperate with brands to get win-win commercial mode, and we also can put small brands together for stronger group cohesiveness.

 

Fashion is for KOLs ?

 

Event

Seminar: KOL Marketing @ Christine Tsui International Fashion

Date: 13 March 2018

Seminar Host: Heather-Wuhan-AGL; Alena-Shanghai-AGL

 

Outline

  1. INTRODUCTION & BACKGROUND
  2. ADOPTION AS A MKTTOOL
  3. PROS&CONS

 

Part One: INTRODUCTION AND BACKGROUND

KOL, or s so called “Key Opinion Leader”, refers to a person with a significant influence on people. In China, it can be a famous or just a regular person with large-huge fan base. The term KOL has been used in the marketing field, however, in our seminar we use this term as a reference to Chinese KOLs, whereas those in the West will only be called as “influencers”.

KOLs in China are mostly active on different social media platforms, such as Weibo, Bilibili, Wechat and many others. As seen bellow, the KOL was compared to the Chinese words “wang hong” that seems to have a very negative connotation in the Chinese language, which is mostly linked to gossiping.

The very first KOL in Chine appeared in 1988. Taiwanese writer Pi zi Cai became the first Chinese internet celebrity with his online romance novel “The First Intimate Touch”. Since then, as the internet and techniques developed, more apps and platforms have sprung up, bringing huge opportunities and more exposure for this group.

In a nutshell, no matter KOL or influencer, their role is essentially the same — They both collaborate with brands in term of product promotion and trigger the interest of their audience in desirable direction.


 

The concept of KOL

Alena-Shanghai-AGL

At start, let me ask you the first question: Has everyone in here heard about the concept of KOLs or网红?

 

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

Someone very popular online and has both social and commercial value. What’s KOL in your opinion?

 

Vincent-Shanghai-Incubator

KOL is an influencer. For consumer, is influencer blogger. But B2B influencers are called thought leaders. The term is being used quite loosely.

 

Alena-Shanghai-AGL

Yes,very good. KOL,in other words:Key Opinion Leader.

 

Hangzhou-Jessie-co-founder

KOL means Key Opinion Leader.

 

Alena-Shanghai-AGL

Also, just to be sure. When we are talking about KOLs, in particular, we are referring to those in the Chinese market. Otherwise you also could have heard the term”influencer”as it was mentioned, but about that later.

 

Vincent-Shanghai-Incubator

KOL is a term used worldwide, not just in China.

 

Alena-Shanghai-AGL

It is, but it refers mainly to China. I would say that in the “West”, they are referred mostly as solely ”influencers”.

 

Vincent-Shanghai-Incubator

KOL is a term used in advertising and PR for quite sometime.

 

Alena-Shanghai-AGL

Ok, so to be more accurate. As we will be talking about the Chinese market. Let’s refer to them as wanghongs.

 

Natalie-Xiamen-Analyst

For me, wanghong is a bit negative, sorry. For the bias.

 

Vincent-Shanghai-Incubator

Influence’s are more precise in defining the role. Influencers, influence people.

 

Alena-Shanghai-AGL

Why so?@Natalie~Xiamen~Analyst.

 

Vincent-Shanghai-Incubator

@Alena-Shanghai-AGL~Shanghai~AGL Natalie’s comment actually is a reason why KOL all changed names into influencers.

 

Grace-Shanghai-Media

Because people have certain negative impressions about them@Alena-Shanghai-AGL.

 

Natalie-Xiamen-Analyst

Bias is hard to explain; and maybe because the word wanghong often appears in gossip etc.

 

Alena-Shanghai-AGL

Oh,I had no idea. How are these KOLs addressed in this case in China?As KOLs, influencers?

 

Grace-Shanghai-Media

KOL and influencers are more inclusive and precise, as many of the influencers are not only active online but also in real life.

 

Alena-Shanghai-AGL

Oh, I see.  When did they appear?

 

Alena-Shanghai-AGL

So anyway, Does anyone know how and when did they “appear”?

 

Alena-Shanghai-AGL

The whole concept of, first online, influencers appeared?

 

Grace-Shanghai-Media

I guess in China, it has something to do with Weibo.

 

Alena-Shanghai-AGL

Because I guess, once you are not a publicly known celebrity, you gotta start on the internet.

 

Astrid-Shenzhen-Operation

Maybe few years ago, people start call those girls“IT girl”?

 

Grace-Shanghai-Media

Like the Chinese version of twitter.

 

Alena-Shanghai-AGL

Good guess.

 

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

@Grace_Shanghai_media That’s one of their platforms.

 

Alena-Shanghai-AGL

Actually the very first one, that could be called an”influence”started in 1998.

 

Alena-Shanghai-AGL

Taiwanese writer Pi zi Cai became the first Chinese internet celebrity with his online romance novel“The First Intimate Touch”.

 

Grace-Shanghai-Media

Haha, I know that one, Pi zi Cai.

 

Alena-Shanghai-AGL

He actually got himself a nerdy audience of wanghong, or“networms”, which the term wanghong later was supposed to be created from:).

 

Alena-Shanghai-AGL

Sorry for using  this term again, just for the sake of explaining. I agree 100%, and done without the internet. Of course with the time, the internet speed , our personal electronic devices and their cameras improved and the internet created a haven for beauty, fashion, lifestyle bloggers. And of course, people started posting and sharing pictures.

 

Part Two: ADOPTION AS A MKT TOOL

There are many ways of how KOLs/influencer can collaborate with brands. It could be compared to a pyramid of channels: brand ambassador, brand spokesman/woman, product spokesman/woman or regional ambassador.

Either way or another, the collaboration is mostly product-oriented. KOLs/ influencers are responsible for product promotion, such as garments, make-up, handbags in either very apparent way or in a very casual manner, such as randomly sharing their daily life photos with occasional showcase of the product.

As for the effectiveness of such collaboration, some are successful while some are not.

For example, some celebrities, such as Xu Weizhou, known as one of the popular pretty boys or China’s “little fresh meat”, ranking No.1 for social influence, is ranked first among the bottom 10 in term of commercial value. In other words, his influence or number of social media followers in not translated into sales, and therefore may not seem as a good investment from the brands’ perspective.

 

Therefore, it’s necessary for brands to do a little bit of a marketing research and investigation before choosing suitable KOL. Understanding their fans values, and being clear about their consumption capacity and preference are the most important factors brands should understand.

 

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

I believe many of you have seen those people online,very very frequently.

无自动替代文字可用。

Source: 1’H 2017 Bomoda China Key Opinion Leader Index Reports

 

Natalie-Xiamen-Analyst

Where is the source for this list?

 

Vincent-Shanghai-Incubator

Oh yeah.

 

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

It’s a new study by Bomoda, a NY-based consumer intelligence company.@Natalie~Xiamen~Analyst

 

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

From are port that looks at effectiveness of thoseKOLs throughtwolenses: social influence and commercial influence.

 

Julie-Shanghai-High-end retail

To me, they are more‘ star’ rather than KOL in china. I will say Chinese KOLs like Zhang dayi , Gogoboi, Freshboy, Rebecca…etc.

 

Natalie-Xiamen-Analyst

Yes.

 

Astrid-Shenzhen-Operation

Yes.

 

Julie-Shanghai-High-end retail

But in terms of a ‘influencer’, maybe they can be classified in the same category?

 

Grace-Shanghai-Media

Agreed.

 

Oran-Shanghai-Merchandiser

This list shows much ads companies invest to those people.

 

Alena-Shanghai-AGL

Where I work, the marketing department refers to”celebrities”and”KOLs” but at the end of the day, the result should be similar.

 

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

They are all adopted as MKT tool by brands. Many brands are collaborating with them by using their media exposure.

 

Alena-Shanghai-AGL

Yes.

 

Julie-Shanghai-High-end retail

Take the example of an bingbing on小红书,she is a KOL there.

 

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

@Julie-Shanghai-High-end retail~Shanghai~High-endretail Yes!Haha.

 

Natalie-Xiamen-Analyst

I should say the difference shall be based on whether they have company or group to build their image to become KOL.

 

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

How many of you know the ways of collaboration between KOLs and brands?

 

Alena-Shanghai-AGL

Brands’ ambassadors. Angelababy for Dior or UGG.

 

Julie-Shanghai-High-end retail

I have a good article on this issue to share but it’s in Chinese…

 

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

Yes,those are very apparent ways@Alena-Shanghai-AGL~Shanghai~AGL

 

Julie-Shanghai-High-end retail

It explains the difference between brand ambassador, brand friend..etc.

 

Natalie-Xiamen-Analyst

Gogoboi and Mr.bag, Their commercial collaborations are successful.

 

Oran-Shanghai-Merchandiser

I think the brands are trying to catch the fans behind the KOL.

 

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

Exactly.

 

Vanessa-GZ-couture

Collaboration between KOLs and brands start from bloggers in west, first like models.

 

Julie-Shanghai-High-end retail

I’ll translate  some key points. Pyramid of channels: brand ambassador, brand spokesman (spoke woman), product spokesman (spokeswoman), regional ambassador, regional certain line ambassador. And also brand friend, brand muse…etc. Their levels are different.

 

Astrid-Shenzhen-Operation

I know that most of time brands send their products to KOLs, they post pictures. Sometimes KOLs get a special link, that will provide their commission according to the sell.

 

Vanessa-GZ-couture

They share their”daily style”makeup things….somehow actually from the brand.

 

Yohanna-GuangZhou-Student

Like some YouTubers who update their makeup videos, lots of brands will send their products to them.

 

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

Yes!As far as i know,Brands often expect more from collaboration with KOLs. They not only wish to expand their exposure by KOL’s attendance in many social activities like fashion show, but wish them to keep promoting their products in their daily lives.

 

Vanessa-GZ-couture

Maybe at the first they really shared daily style, but after were business.

 

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

Possible. Because that feels very genuine.

 

Alena-Shanghai-AGL

The KOLs receive a product from a company and then they decide whether to share it?

 

Oran-Shanghai-Merchandiser

That’s true! Soft tender ads all from daily life post chicken soup articles.

 

Astrid-Shenzhen-Operation

Something like that.

 

Vincent–Shanghai-Incubator

Ha ha ha, Chicken soup articles, ha ha.

 

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

Is there money payment?

 

Astrid-Shenzhen-Operation

And sometimes small company will offer KOLs a discount. I mean if you have a lot of fans, sure. But if you are more local, they will offer the discount.

 

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

So any way,  their collaborations are mainly product-oriented.

 

Astrid-Shenzhen-Operation

Yes,I think so.

 

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

Do you think those ways are really efficient?

 

Astrid-Shenzhen-Operation

Oh yeah, it works.

 

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

And let me post another pic ha ha.

图片中可能有:3 位用户

Source: 1’H 2017 Bomoda China Key Opinion Leader Index Reports

 

 Astrid-Shenzhen-Operation

Wow, that’s hurtful.

 

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

Those stars are very popular, But they’re ranked as bottom 10 in terms of MKT impact. Why?

 

Natalie-Xiamen-Analyst

Not agreed with Xuweizhou and Liuyifei.

 

Astrid-Shenzhen-Operation

I mean it hurts their personal feelings…

 

Astrid-Shenzhen-Operation

Yeah, me too. I thought Xuweizhou are doing good, but maybe his fans are not translated to sales.

 

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

Yep!

 

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

At the opposite end of the spectrum are celebrities such as XuWeizhou. Known as one of the popular pretty boys or China’s“little fresh meat,” the actor ranks No.1 for social influence. But when it comes to commercial value, he is ranked first among the bottom10.

 

Natalie-Xiamen-Analyst

The situation for zhaoliying might be changed in the near future since she now has a very professional and capable agent.

 

Astrid-Shenzhen-Operation

So that means the brand is wrong, they don’t do the homework well.

 

Alena-Shanghai-AGL

Yes.@Astrid-Shenzhen-Operation .

 

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

That because 99percent of the social media buzz by Xu’s fans is non-product or non-brand-related, according to Bomoda.

 

Natalie-Xiamen-Analyst

@Astrid-Shenzhen-Operation Yes.

 

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

In an other word,what makes you follow their recommendation? Any thoughts?

 

Natalie-Xiamen-Analyst

Who I follow are normally someone do a great in some other industry rather than just fashion industry such a s ads company or PR, etc.

 

Natalie-Xiamen-Analyst

I reckon their lifestyle and value first, then products.

 

Astrid-Shenzhen-Operation

Brands need to do a better  marketing research. Understanding their fans are most important.

 

Oran-Shanghai-Merchandiser

Me too!I never pay for the person I like, while pay for the products I need.

 

Vanessa-GZ-couture

@Oran-Shanghai-Merchandizer +1.

 

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

@Oran-Shanghai-Merchandizer Do they recommend things you need?

 

Astrid-Shenzhen-Operation

But what if you have second thought about two products, but KOL just post one of them?

 

Alena-Shanghai-AGL

Well, their job is actually to INFLUENCE your thoughts to get the first one. The one they are posting.

 

Natalie-Xiamen-Analyst

I will check the feedback from real consumers.

 

Astrid-Shenzhen-Operation

Let’s say they are equally good.

 

Vanessa-GZ-couture

I got to say i will choose the one looks more adorable.

 

Part Three: PRONS & CONS

When it comes to the PRONS & CONS of such marketing moves , It is undeniable that KOLs will bring huge profits for brands, and more undiscovered good products for consumers as well.

However, they can also be misleading for the public, by recommending those from brands they collaborate with, out of gaining interests.

And another fact is that most of the expensive KOLs actually won’t have any influence in China, simply because they don’t have any real influence. Their popularity is an illusion, created by so called zombie fans.

Such influencers, with a seemingly large fan base demand thousands of dollars to promote products on their personal accounts for…well…nothing.

So as it was mentioned before, with the goal of increasing sales and expanding the market, the brands need to do their homework. And as a consumer, you need to identify those really influential and beneficial to you.

 

 Alena-Shanghai-AGL

There are several platforms which allow influencers to reach their audience and get paid directly–virtual currency, gifts and many others. For example MeiPai, Yizhibo and HuajiaoZhibo, right?

Speaking of Weibo. I chose one example for our discussion, to see the concept from more practical, less theoretical perspective, and so 25-yo fashion blogger LiangTao, known as Mr.Bags(包先生).

Mr Bags: https://weibo.com/mayumilux?refer_flag=1001030102_

Mr Bags: https://weibo.com/mayumilux?refer_flag=1001030102_

 

Oran-Shanghai-Merchandiser

Pls also check the feedbacks from other users!

 

Alena-Shanghai-AGL

Everyone familiar?

 

Vincent-Shanghai-Incubator

Not really.

 

Astrid-Shenzhen-Operation

Just followed him last week.

 

Vincent-Shanghai-Incubator

I like to watch benny’s vlog on bilibili.

 

Alena-Shanghai-AGL

I am not familiar with bilibili.

 

Vincent-Shanghai-Incubator

Is fun!

 

Astrid-Shenzhen-Operation

Although I’m not a big fan of his writing style, use too much“!”

 

Oran-Shanghai-Merchandiser

Check the numbers of fans 3millions. Don’t you think that is because fakes bags are to much in well-known platform like Taobao..but he can offer real ones.

 

Vincent-Shanghai-Incubator

He is one of the most successful influencers at the moment, focusing on collaboration with luxury brands and promoting their products—bags.

 

Alena-Shanghai-AGL

Yes, he does. A huge fan base.

 

Vincent-Shanghai-Incubator

Some of those’开箱(Means unpacking)’ open boxed is so fake…so promotional…so bad…

 

Alena-Shanghai-AGL

He has direct links on his Wechat to e-commerce platforms of the brands. Or he even has the”limited”editions.

图片中可能有:文本

Mr Bags: https://weibo.com/mayumilux?refer_flag=1001030102_

图片中可能有:文本

Mr Bags: https://weibo.com/mayumilux?refer_flag=1001030102_

 

Alena-Shanghai-AGL

That get SOLD OUT within minutes. That is the power of such a strong KOL.

 

Vincent-Shanghai-Incubator

I need to check my watch history hehe.

 

Oran-Shanghai-Merchandiser

Oh limits make people crazy!

 

Astrid-Shenzhen-Operation

He is more into sale bags compare to other KOLs like gogoboi.

 

Alena-Shanghai-AGL

It has been taken to the extend that he even kind of sells or intermediates the sale of purses with his signature. So basically, as a fashion brand, you can get in touch with Mr.Bags and offer him a collaboration.

 

Astrid-Shenzhen-Operation

Mr.bag post more often compared to others bloggers.

 

Alena-Shanghai-AGL

Yes, because brands approach him very much.And he gets a lot of money out of such cooperation It can reach up to hundreds of thousands RMB for one article,Which I think is crazy crazy crazy scale of a business.

 

Astrid-Shenzhen-Operation

I’m not a big fan of him, so this whole cooperation is a little bit bother me. Because I only follow him for the content of the bag.

 

Alena-Shanghai-AGL

In this case, of course, the problem may appear if you are dealing with such an influencing person. As they very much case for their reputation, they can very picky in terms of the brands and their products.

 

Vanessa-GZ-couture

Anyone Follow her? Rebecca.

图片中可能有:1 位用户、微笑、文本

https://jingdaily.com/bomoda-report-ranks-china-kols-effectiveness/. 

 

Astrid-Shenzhen-Operation

Don’t like her style that much, not for me.

 

Vanessa-GZ-couture

She writes stylist, make-ups.

 

Astrid-Shenzhen-Operation

She cooperated with Mini Cooper last year.

 

Alena-Shanghai-AGL

It more than just paying the KOL to promote your product, of course they are more sophisticated than that. First of all, the must like the product(which does not have to be obvious, since being a KOL has turned into a very well-paid job).

 

Second of all, the product itself should be align with the KOL’s philosophy/ideology/lifestyle/fashion style. Just as a brand, they need to be consistent in terms of their articles, post and recommendation to keep their credibility.

 

Another question I would like to ask, is…do you think there are any cons about KOL marketing? For the brands. After what we have gone through and what we have learnt about KOLs.

 

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

Misleading, they could mislead their followers to some extend,but that’s also inevitable, tho.

 

Alena-Shanghai-AGL

Nice guess.The fact is that most of the expensive KOLs won’t have ANY influence in China, simply because they don’t have any REAL influence.

Their popularity is an illusion, created by so called zombie fans. Such influencers, with a seemingly large fan base demand thousands of dollars to promote products on their personal accounts for…well…nothing. So as it was mentioned before, the brands need to do their homework:).

 

Astrid-Shenzhen-Operation

If you pick the right KOL, sure you can increase your brand awareness. That’s a con I think.

 

 Conclusion

We have covered three parts during this group discussion: introduction and background of KOLs;their adoption as a marketing tool; pros and cons.

As for the first part, KOL, or s so called “Key Opinion Leader”, refers to a person with a significant influence on people. In China, it can be a famous or just a regular person with large-huge fan base. The term KOL has been used in the marketing field, however, in our seminar we use this term as a reference to Chinese KOLs, whereas those in the West will only be called as “influencers”.

KOLs in China are mostly active on different social media platforms, such as Weibo, Bilibili, Wechat and many others. As seen bellow, the KOL was compared to the Chinese words “wang hong” that seems to have a very negative connotation in the Chinese language, which is mostly linked to gossiping.

The very first KOL in China appeared in 1988. Taiwanese writer Pi zi Cai became the first Chinese internet celebrity with his online romance novel“The First Intimate Touch”.

Since then, as the internet and techniques developed, more apps and platforms have sprung up, bringing huge opportunities  and more exposure for this group.

For the second part, KOLs are often adopted as a marketing tool. They can serve as brand ambassadors, brand spokesmen/women, product spokesmen/women or regional ambassadors. As for any type, the collaboration is mainly product oriented.

As for the effectiveness of such collaboration, some are successful while some are not. For example, some celebrities, such as Xu Weizhou, known as one of the popular pretty boys or China’s “little fresh meat”, ranking No.1 for social influence, is ranked first among the bottom 10 in term of commercial value.

In other words, his influence or number of social media followers in not translated into sales, and therefore may not seem as a good investment from the brands’ perspective.

Therefore, it’s necessary for brands to do a little bit of a marketing research and investigation before choosing suitable KOL. Understanding their fans values, and being clear about their consumption capacity and preference are the most important factors brands should understand.