During the epidemic, online marketing was particularly prevalent. The fad of WeChat’s popular articles has faded, but there must be a blue ocean in an era of rapid information flow.
Clothing marketing overview
Clothing marketing purposes
Moderator: I wonder if people know why clothing companies are marketing. Just to make money selling goods? We have the phrase “people rely on clothes”. People buy clothes a lot of times because to convey “what kind of person I am”, and clothing marketing can be well implanted in the hearts of consumers’ clothing cultural values, once successful “planting grass”, can bring a large degree of revenue to the company. Marketing based on sales, seize the human demand for the embodiment of differences and social status through clothing, the long-term development direction of the brand, and cultural construction.
The current situation of the clothing market
Moderator: What’s the clothing market like now?
Audience Jessica： I’m not in a clothing company, but as a consumer, my desire to buy clothes has dropped significantly this year.
Moderator: I used to do lace as a market segment. Previously the department has done market research, found that the outbreak so that everyone generally stays at home, so do not need to buy clothes, we use money in tourism. Now the trend is not lace but casual sports style. Buy clothes will also choose more functional clothes like home fitness people will buy yoga clothes. This is evident in the LULULEMON brand. According to its results, the brand’s second-quarter revenue rose 2 percent in 2020, while direct-to-consumer business, including online sales, grew 155 percent year-on-year. By the second half of 2020, the stock is up about 50.2 percent, with a market capitalization of $45.5 billion. But LULULEMON has fallen a few percentage points this year, and its marketing investment is so large that while revenues are rising, profits will fall.
LengYun： Marketing is too expensive now. If you don’t spend money, there is no traffic, if you spend too much money, the result will be the opposite, after all, the product is the core.
Clothing marketing platform
Moderator: What clothing marketing platforms do you know? AudienceCarrier： Little Red Book has a lot of bloggers promoting it. AudienceJessica： Taobao, Weibo, B station these platforms can see the traces of promotional marketing. AudienceQueennie wang： Now is the ERA of IP, a person can sell multiple brands, for multiple brands endorsement. Everyone can be an opinion leader in a certain area. Moderator: Everyone said that the network red, star with goods, advertising (TV, subway, network) live on the line, short video, micro-movies are means. There are soft text, search engine SEO, online and offline activities, TV drama implantation, community to cultivate a common hobby of a group of people, etc., can be targeted consumer groups. The most important thing is that I chat with friends, I think very few people can think of this, that is, the company’s internal sales bonus algorithm, that is, the company’s internal sales staff sharing methods and management methods, can also be used by other employees and even customers.
LengYun： Now is the era of “everyone is a consumer, everyone is a seller”. Many big companies are doing this now.
Audience Carrier： Some companies ask employees to circle their friends to send information about the company’s products.
Moderator: Just mentioned these platforms, using WeChat, Shake Tone, Taobao, Weibo. In addition, there are video numbers, Little Red Books, Station B, INS, and FACEBOOK. Suppose you’re going to market something now, and you’re going to choose a platform. So, do you understand the operational logic, the pros, and cons behind these platforms? Let’s say I choose a Tik Tok because it’s “short, flat, fast” and so on.
Audience Queennie wang： Now there are many platforms, can only choose precise one or two, really too difficult.
Audience Jessica： Taobao traffic is large, customers’ profiles are accurate, but the disadvantage should be to do clothing with Taobao and brand public number is very expensive. I feel that it should be selected according to the precise positioning and brand positioning of the customer.
LengYun： Taobao’s traffic has reached the top, to tell the truth most of the platform traffic has reached the top.
Moderator: Let me share some of the advantages and disadvantages of the platform. First, WeChat Public Number, its advantages are
can have relatively close contact with the user.
Easy to cultivate core fans.
Cons: Channels are closed and it’s hard to grow your fans unless the content is very high quality.
LengYun： The public number is generally “closed”, so there are good and bad. But in the future with the video number, there are still opportunities, video number now is user stability, there are not too many big ups and downs. Between the Tik Tok and the video number, I am more optimistic about the long-term development of the video number. There is an algorithm that I think is a disadvantage, that is, too “to cater to the user”, not good for the next generation to grow. For example, if you like vulgarity, you can be pushed vulgar. The biggest problem with the platform right now is that your fans don’t necessarily see you, which is bad. So loyalty between users and platforms is not good for each other
Moderator: This is de-centralization, not the cultivation of loyal fans. Although it has a lot of traffic. I haven’t downloaded a Tik Tok, I downloaded Bilbili. WeChat video number should be able to bind to the public number, for the public number to direct the stream. Weibo is also very good, can be accompanied by a link. Also about Taobao: The development of clothing marketing is based on e-commerce. What year is it thought that the earliest fashion e-commerce rise? What events contributed to the rise during that time? What promoted your first time on Taobao? Will you worry about the quality of Taobao’s things because they can’t be picked by themselves?
Audience Jessica： The first time I bought clothes on Taobao was in 2004. Because it is cheap, that is just what I want, but at that time the seller shipping is too slow. But at the time, with the rise in rents in stores, labor costs were high. It is precise because of the high cost of entities that e-commerce has developed.
Audience Queennie wang： Because it’s convenient. Don’t waste time shopping, run broken legs can’t find what you like.
Moderator: Taobao can rise in China can not be separated from the time of the creation, when the environment let the physical cost rise, Internet technology made e-commerce come into being. And Taobao can develop so far, but also can not be separated from Jack Ma’s 10 years of hard work. Today’s requirements for clothing marketing talent 1. Specific requirements at a glance, there is nothing you did not expect.
Moderator: Does anyone in the group want to be a new medium? Want to do new media and do not want to do new media friends, to clothing company’s new media operation or copy planning positions, to do successful marketing on the talent what requirements? We can consider hard skills, soft skills, industry experience, management skills (managers), resource accumulation. Here are some examples of these five dimensions that you can refer to:
LengYun： Management skills are common for all management posts. Marketing is now scripted, but it can also be outsourced.
Moderator: The importance of these requirements is sorted from large to small, how do you rank?
LengYun： Depending on the level. The lower the level, the more important the hard skill. Different level requirements are different. The lower the level, the more you need to perform landing, so execution is more important. The higher you are, the more important creativity and management are, and the more important it is to be a person.
Audience Jessica： The higher the level, the more important the guidance and direction, and the more important the creativity is.
Moderator: Here’s how I score them, do you agree?
LengYun： Overall, yes. Specific to different enterprises still have differences. There are also levels.
Moderator: How do different companies distinguish between their “differences”?
LengYun： Depending on the product but also depends on the corporate management culture. Some are comprehensive, some can accommodate different advantages and disadvantages.
2. Why Clothing Marketing Talent Is Lacking
Moderator: Said so many such positions on the people’s requirements. Why do people think there is a shortage of talent in clothing marketing?
Audience Jessica： The threshold is low. People think that marketing is sales. Moderator: They are a little different, different in scope. I think marketing is bigger than sales, marketing and sales are not the same. Marketing is about spending money, sales are about making money, and that’s the biggest difference. Why is there a shortage of clothing marketing talent? I roughly wrote that because new media operations are emerging industries, there is strong demand. People who run new media operations may be heading to big factories, and they’re not broken down into clothes that must be in place.
LengYun： But now social business is different. Spend money while making money. Social media, for example, lets KOL forward a link, and the forwarding itself pays KOL, but after they turn around, the sales order may come in. The live broadcast is a combination of marketing and sales. It is not the lack of marketing talent, is the general lack of talent. Good designers, buyers, sales, marketing are lacking, this industry is generally so. Good styling matchmakers are also missing. Many businesses can’t find people and don’t match each other’s requirements. What companies want, the existing talent market can not reach. Frankly speaking, the overall level of talent in this industry is not high. It’s not hard to make a debut. Just let yourself do the industry TOP 10% level. If you represent most people’s level, it’s harder to be competitive. Enterprises are not short of average people, enterprises lack talent.
Clothing Marketing Case Study
Moderator: Now come to our case study, first ask the group of friends who have yoga? Have you ever used LULULEMON stuff?
Audience Queennie wang： Used, they are to break down the category to the extreme. So when you think of yoga, you think of this brand.
LengYun： I haven’t used it. But all the friends who have used it say yes.
Audience Jessica： I haven’t bought it, but it’s professional at first glance. Moderator: So as a user of it, would you care about its activities? Many yoga enthusiasts love to go to its activities. Their activity is to learn yoga lessons without money. Their online classes are done by yoga ambassadors or KOLs in the yoga world. They wear LULU products and record videos on their social networking sites, such as WeChat, Little Red Book, and Shake Sound, these traffic platforms. There are also offline activities, large ones like the “Hot Sweat Movement”. Usually, LULU invites yoga ambassadors to their offline stores. After the end, the students walk around the shop and buy things. But I don’t like doing this kind of activity as a yoga teacher because she earns more by teaching for an hour. Become a yoga ambassador, usually also regularly go to LULU to try new products.
LengYun： They belong to community marketing well, and they cost less than other big investors.
Moderator: In addition to precision new middle-class women, they also developed into men’s sweatpants, sports fast-moving products such as shower gel production. This is the horizontal development of similar products, the following image is Lulu’s products.
Audience Queennie wang： find a product category and become a nice. It’s also precision marketing, catching repeat customers and loyal fans.
Moderator: Such a marketing strategy quietly catches your attention and heart. In addition to this, their marketing I would like to talk about offline stores. Their guide purchases themselves are not called guide purchases, called brand educators. What’s different about them is that they are also sports enthusiasts themselves. In addition to basic sales, will also communicate with you sports experience, give you just the right advice. In addition to the community, LULULEMON is also looking for celebrity marketing. For example, American stars Avril Kardashian, domestic stars Yao Chen and Liu Tao are all users of LULULEMON. If you remember correctly, tech bigwigs come to help them market and wear their products. In addition, the patent of the product is also part of marketing. Summarize lululemon’s marketing success.
(1) Focus on the small category of the industry, consumer portrait accurate.
(2) Community marketing, the object of consumption – common enthusiasts, pull together.
(3) Apply for a patent and dig deep into the moat.
First, clothing marketing overview
Marketing is advertising, through the construction of trademark culture, to convey the value of goods to consumers a set of practices. Common means have webcasts, public tweets, celebrity IP with goods, and so on.
The topic we’re talking about today is SHEIN. Does this brand count as China’s first global fashion brand? Let me start with a brief introduction to SHEIN’s background. Some of the data I have on my memory may not be so accurate, and you are welcome to point them out.
The company was founded in 2008, but its booming period is in the last four or five years. The company made wedding dresses in the early days and was not called SHEIN in the early days. After changing their name to SHEIN, they began to focus on cross-border women’s clothing e-commerce. They are now said to have sold to 200 countries and regions around the world, with seven logistics centers around the world, logistics centers in China, and design centers in China.
Other basic data such as every day with 1,500 new products, a development capability that is far greater than that of other brands I’ve heard of today. I learned earlier that Handu’s clothes and clothing houses are about 30,000. ZARA is about 20,000 models per year. SHEIN prices range from $5 to $15.
How Do You Feel About Hearing These Data?
Since the reform and opening up, we have a lot of Chinese fashion brands to go to the world as their own development goals, then can we call SHEIN Is China’s first global fashion brand?
When I was live streaming, some compared SHEIN to ZARA. Frankly, whether it’s development, operations, sales, supply chain, they’re almost comparable.
ZARA should be the best company in the traditional apparel business that is digitally transforming. Even so, they’re only paying about $20,000 a year. The development of new products mainly depends on designers to see shows, run the street to see shops, or museums and art galleries around the world to collect new design elements.
Companies like SHEIN are more data-driven than traditional companies, which rely more on manual research and information gathering. Data collection, for example, relies on the data retained by end-users while they are visiting the platform to decide what to do with the design. Decision-making by people is not the same as decision-making by data, and their corresponding supply chain systems are different.
At least half of ZARA’s supply chain systems belong to their supply chain systems, such as tailoring centers and logistics centers, plus the integration of external small and medium-sized factories. Zara, of course, is the best in traditional companies in terms of supply chain integration.
SHEIN’s supply chain systems are technically powerful, but their supplier plants are not smart factories or highly digital factories themselves, and the plants themselves rely primarily on “manpower and time investment” to meet SHEIN’s high requirements. However, industry reviews say they pay suppliers well, plus the size of their orders, so it is understandable that many suppliers are willing to work with them. But I’ve also recently heard about their increasingly demanding suppliers, and I’m not sure about the reliability of the news.
So they are not the same as digital companies in terms of specific operating models, and they operate online and offline in a different way. So its previous model, the speed of the previous model, the frequency of the previous model, and the width of the SKU is much larger than ZARA. From a publicity point of view, most people know ZARA for fast fashion, so comparing the two is inertia, but they are two models, in my opinion, there is not much comparability.
IS SHEIN A CHINESE BRAND?
Back to today’s topic about whether SHEIN is the first Chinese global market brand. Here are a few additional backgrounds. First, it is now cross-border e-commerce, it has little market influence in China. The second factor is that although its overall operational headquarters are in China, it does not deliberately emphasize its Chinese brand in terms of publicity orientation, or even deliberately downplay its national identity in some ways. Of course, there is a reason, because in the face of such a large national market, if you deliberately emphasize national identity, the political factors to face are likely to turn it into a crisis. So as a businessman, he has a point in doing so. But I do not know in these two premises, you will define it as a Chinese brand?
I don’t think SHEIN is a global Chinese fashion brand, it doesn’t depend on our definition. Depending on whose definition? It’s up to the consumer.
If the consumer defines you as a Chinese fashion brand, you are the Chinese fashion brand. But as far as I know, today’s consumers are not very concerned, even if they may not know where SHEIN comes from. So whether it can be defined as a Chinese fashion brand is a question mark. From this point of view, we can’t define it as a global Chinese fashion brand. But objectively speaking, it has become a worldwide clothing platform company from China. From this point of view, it is also remarkable.
Is SHEIN a Brand?
Let me move on to the next topic, will people define a company like SHEIN as a “brand”? I’ll add my definition of “brand”. I think a brand is called a brand, must-have brand value and brand added value. If you don’t have this part of the brand added value, you can only be called a trademarked product at best, not a brand.
There was talk of the designer’s original ability during the live broadcast. Because some think that if a brand does not design original ability, it is not called “brand”.
I don’t think the role of designers on this platform is that important. Because their designers are more by the data requirements to cater to the public, to meet the public approach does not need to think creatively, so basically certainly not original designers. They have to pay so much in a short time, but also to ensure that such a fast rate of payment, can only be industrial assembly line design, so its design value in such a platform is difficult to be reflected. If you’ve seen his product, you don’t see any element of Chinese originality, it’s designed for the local market, and there may be a lot of seemingly repetitive models.
Fast fashion positioning is often difficult to play the value of designers, so even if it becomes a brand out of China, its value must not be by design to win, but by its operation. It’s good at operations, not the product itself.
SHEIN defines it as a “branded platform”, in other words, it is not a product like our brand, but a branded platform. But so far, SHEIN seems to me to be a selling platform, and it doesn’t run its brand. Of course, for a popular brand like it, if it succeeds in terms of market share, it will be successful. Now it’s a store for women’s cross-border e-commerce, which is completely different from ZARA in terms of brand value, and in 2019 ZARA’s brand value rankings are in the top 10. Although ZARA has been criticized for plagiarism, it does enable many ordinary people to afford luxury styles they could not afford, known as “fashion democratization”. But SHEIN has yet to establish its brand value.
The Future of SHEIN
After talking about SHEIN, let’s talk about its future development. SHEIN is now in more than 200 countries and is said to be earning almost $10 billion. How do you think SHEIN should develop if it wants to continue to expand its market?
Expand into the Chinese Market?
Now SHEIN’s model is to first spread the net, test out what styles each region or country probably needs, break down from those styles, hatch the corresponding brands and then develop. I think it’s a good path.
At the same time, because what it’s doing now is cross-border women’s wear, is it possible to make the Chinese market its next target market?
But they have little chance in the Chinese market. Because there are too many similar brands and e-commerce. They’re all fast.
Expand to the Full Range?
SHEIN is now involved in almost all product categories of lifestyle: men’s, women’s, children’s, beauty, accessories, and other body accessories. But at present, the most concentrated in clothing. In the future may be able to expand to more, such as furniture, porcelain, stationery, and other household items.
Expand into Offline Stores Abroad?
I think it depends on the specific market to do offline abroad. Especially now, the difficulty of doing offline is still very high, stores are particularly affected by local cultural policies and laws, and the cost of input is relatively high, so the probability of success of brick-and-mortar stores is relatively small.
Some think you can try the normalization of flash stores, this is a possibility. In addition, SHEIN offline store has its advantages, that is, data advantages. Before it entered the market, it had a lot of data on local consumers. It’s theoretically more accurate than those who don’t have the data to open offline stores.
Life Cycle and Future Risks?
The next time I also asked a new question, because our Internet company has grown very fast, but its life cycle is very short. Do people think that a platform like SHEIN is an explosive brand, or can it be a brand with a longer life cycle? Do you think it’s a platform of long-term value? What risks do you think it will face in the next development? I think first of all this platform will face the problem of trade protection, I think this is why SHEIN is currently deliberately downplaying the national image, it does not deliberately promote it as China’s fashion brand. But it now has some influence, with app downloads in many countries also within Top10, and some even topping Top1, so I think sooner or later it may catch the attention of some governments. But what is good on this platform is clothing, not high-tech content of things, perhaps not so high trade risk. In addition, how the platform catch users is also a big challenge. As SHEIN expands, so will its competitors. In overseas markets, how to capture the attention of young consumers in the Z-generation, which is easily diverted quickly, is a hidden risk issue.
There is also a legal and moral hazard. Because SHEIN has entered many mainstream markets in Europe and the United States, the laws and regulations of these markets are more robust, so it also means that they face a greater risk of legal action.
Such as the risk of plagiarism, the risk of user data privacy, legal risks, and the use of labor. These problems are likely to be big problems in both developed countries in Europe and the United States. Its products are cheap, and local consumers or some non-profits can question the labor treatment of the suppliers he uses, and the factory environment. Some European and American countries are very concerned about this kind of social equity. This corresponds to many issues related to social responsibility. If you are not careful, you may face prosecution. These increases in costs and are accompanied by risks.
Do you think the SHEIN platform is highly replaceable? In other words, does it have core competencies? Is its competitive barrier high or low? I know they’ve put a lot of effort into technology, too. I’ve also heard that its supply chain system is strong. But will there be a chance of replacement in the next 5-10 years?
I have no answers to these questions for the time being. However, you are welcome to give feedback in the comments section. During our sharing discussion this time, there are a few audiences involved, I also got a lot of information from our audiences’ feedback, thank you very much.
Leng Yun: Hello everyone, today our theme is to learn from luxury goods how to improve customer loyalty. Our guest today is Ms. Zhou Ting last week. If you want to know more about Ms. Zhou Ting, you can pay attention to Ms. Zhou Ting’s knowledge (account name: Dr. Zhou Ting).
Why talk about “customer loyalty”? Customer loyalty is becoming more and more important in our time. Now is the age of social business, it is becoming more and more difficult to capture the attention and time of customers. Everyone’s attention is very limited. It’s not easy to grab everyone’s attention, and even if he buys your stuff today, it doesn’t mean he’ll continue to be your customer next season or next year. So today we invite Mr. Zhou to share how our brand can improve customer loyalty.
What are luxury customers alike?
What exactly are luxury customers like? First, we throw to Mr. Zhou’s first question, is that since we want to talk about customer loyalty, we must know who our customers are. What kind of group are our customers like? What is their user portrait like? Let’s ask Ms. Zhou to introduce, what kind of group is the consumer of luxury goods? Please, Ms. Zhou.
Dr. Zhou Ting: Thank you, Ms. Leng. Hello everyone, there may be some old friends last time to pay attention to our topic, thank you for continuing to pay attention to me and Ms. Leng live today. Ms. Leng asked a good question – who are luxury customers?
Traffic is not equal to a valid user. This afternoon I visited one of Japan’s largest fast fashion companies. They also raised the issue that while fast fashion has been a success, they are now thinking about how to use services to further encourage younger customers to come to them and spend. Everyone cares about connecting with their customers. First, where are the customers? Who are the customers? And then how do I maintain a relationship with them? Often some Internet platform companies will fool our brand side to say, “I have a lot of traffic, how many customers I have, I probably have a lot of fans.” “But at this point if you want to be high-end and want a better customer, I think you should ask the other person a question, can you filter out the rich customers here?” Because there is often a misunderstanding in the market. I think I have a lot of data, I am a big data company. In fact, there is no equalization between the amount of data and big data. You have so many fans, you have so much traffic, it doesn’t mean these people are now your customers. Only when he has a need, and that demand is associated with your product, and interacts, can be called your customer, otherwise he is only a potential consumer.
Luxury customers: Liquid assets for the luxury industry, we are more concerned with high-end users, so our high-end areas are particularly concerned about liquid assets.
What does liquid assets mean? Some friends may ask if it is an asset, including a property, or is it an asset that can be cashed out at any time? There are two key words: first, not including your property (real estate); This would remove quite a few people. First of all, people who own a home in Beijing and Shanghai with a loan to buy a house will be excluded. Because your house is worth more than 10 million dollars, but you have loan, no cash in hand, no more money to spend, you are not a high-end brand or luxury brand care about the user, and they want to reach the user. Then second, you just have money or not, you don’t want to spend, this kind of person will be excluded by luxury brands. Third, you have money, your money can be cash, can be cashed out at any time to buy things, this matter is very important. Because with these years of start-ups, many people will say that my company is unicorn, how many assets I have, how many billions my company is valued. But I’m sorry, your pockets are empty, you can’t get a penny of cash to buy something you want to buy, or to buy a bag, you don’t have cash to buy, this kind of person is not the target group of luxury brands. 1) Enter a partial IP host name note to search for logins (if unique).
So in the luxury industry, one of the first important conditions we screen is that we have cash in hand and are happy to spend it. This type of talent will be classified as a luxury user. This is the first point shared today.
The classification method of luxury customers
Classified by proximity
If we break down luxury brand customers further, we often fall into three categories. The first category is called core consumers, the second category is called marginal consumers, and the third category is called potential consumers. These are the three categories of luxury users that we want to visit.
The core consumers are very important if, according to the ratio I mentioned earlier, their liquid assets are above RMB 10 million. How many of these people are there in China? According to our statistics at home, there are only about 4 million users with liquid assets of more than RMB 10 million, not as many as everyone thinks. If the liquid assets are more than 100 million yuan, there are about 150,000. These people are considered to be the core consumers of luxury goods. Marginal consumers are estimated to be more than 70 million, with liquid assets of more than RMB1m. The rest of us usually say he’s a potential consumer.
For any company, whether it is to do service or consumer goods business, first of all, we have to find out who their core users are. This relates to an issue that we will explore later, because it is a classification method.
If we break down by consumer goods, these consumers will create a pyramid-shaped five-tiered hierarchy. So in the pyramid 5 level, we will find an interesting phenomenon, or perhaps many friends did not think of a question, is to buy luxury clothing consumers and buy luxury bags consumers, which kind of consumers are more like the general public? Which major customer hierarchy will be higher? We think that people who buy luxury clothes have more spending power than those who buy bags. Why? Because clothing is a consumable, and luxury clothing is actually very expensive, brand is also very expensive. For example, we often joke about expensive suits that can neither be washed nor dry-cleaned, and can only be worn once in a lifetime. But we can’t buy just one outfit in our lifetime, so if we can often buy luxury clothes, then the level of this customer is very high, and shows that his spending power is very strong.
And the person who buys luxury bags may relatively eat three months of fast noodles or save three years’ salary before they can go to the street to buy a 30,000-40,000 or so bags of people. So if you look at the level of frequent consumption of luxury goods, people who buy clothes are often defined as those who buy bags. This is to define the hierarchy of consumers by the category of consumption.
Here I would like to share the fourth point of knowledge, early we will appear a triangle of consumer pyramids, but in recent years with the development of the entire social economy, especially social and human transformation, the consumer triangle pyramid slowly transformed into an Eiffel Tower model. You can imagine the Eiffel Tower, the whole tower more and more fine, the tower is more and more solid, what does that mean? With the development of economy, especially the economic structure of the past two years, more and more people have fallen from the middle. Some people because of some income reasons, his income level fell, he may end up as a mass consumer. But some high-end consumers have always maintained their own level of consumption, will not change his desire to consume, nor will it change his desire to improve his quality of life, including to consume these luxury services, luxury products consumption status. Such a structure would lead to a gradual shift of society as a whole into a two-tiered structure at the consumer level, rather than the increasingly complex structure that everyone imagines China will shift. So for the division of luxury consumers, my suggested model is from the core to the edge.
By type of product
The second category, depending on the type of goods consumed, such as consumer cosmetics, electronics, then bags, fashion, to the purchase of watches, jewelry, luxury goods, art, collectibles and so on. Slowly you will find a picture of your client group interwoven.
In recent years we’ve found luxury brands that are deeply rooted in the core consumer market, and they’ve developed a strong interest in the mass-market. Because they have more opportunities than the general public brand, but also have their own product advantages, through multi-product development, through low-priced product development, and constantly sink, to affect the public consumer’s desire to buy and spend. So luxury goods division of customers is not our traditional sense of the first from the male, female, age, and then the region and so on these labels, but from the perspective of wealth to do the basic line. Because they only draw into this line is my customer, money to spend I can talk to him about how good my product is, I want to help him make his dream into the ideal person.
So that’s why we’re talking about customer youth today, we have to catch where our core users are, and then the marketing tools are effective.
Why do you want to be a customer loyalty?
LengYun: Next, let’s ask Ms. Zhou to share, why do we all need to be customer loyalty? Luxury goods to do, mass brands to do? So from the point of view of luxury goods, why on earth should we do customer stickiness?
Dr. Zhou Ting:
Well, thank you for your question. Because these core consumers are people who really have the financial resources and the desire to spend to contribute value to luxury brands. We say there is still a 2080 principle in the luxury industry, that is, 20% of our old customers bring 80% of the company’s performance to the brand. I’ve seen one of the world’s top high-end jewelry brands, and there’s a special category in their financial statements called Gaoke. In terms of customer share, gadding at only 6% of the brand, but I see the numbers behind it are startled, and the 6% of high customers bring 60% of the brand’s sales. This is a very surprising number. Although I can’t say its name, but basically everyone in the wedding, in the gift to their loved ones, will choose this brand. So in luxury companies, they value these old customers, they have a relatively high re-purchase rate, and they often buy high unit prices. In the high-end industry, we all know that the higher the unit price, the higher its profit margin, because consumers are willing to pay for the brand premium. And for these core old customers to create profits and create high turnover of this value, but also have to let the brand or capital better to serve these old customers.
Focus on the Chinese market
On the second hand, there is a new opportunity in the high-end field in recent years, that is, the previously rich Chinese have gone overseas to buy luxury goods, but these two years can not go out. Then they spend more time in China, when the competitive landscape of luxury brands is not what we’ve seen before scattered around the world, such as Paris, London, Tokyo, Seoul or New York, but more concentrated in China.
When so many international brands are going to rob these once-luxury consumers in China in the next two to three years, the competition in this market pattern is becoming more and more intense. There are still 92% of foreign brands that don’t enter China, or through cross-border e-commerce, hoping to reach our Chinese consumers. So we found that China’s luxury market from the original big brands in the world, into a number of brands to compete in this market pattern. Of course, there are both large luxury group brands, but also second- and third-line design brands, there are many more high-end niche, custom brands, designer brands, fashion brands and so on.
So when the competitive landscape becomes extremely fierce, because the number of customers or consumer customers is relatively limited, this time the brand should improve professionalism, thinking about how to use professional services to create a better consumer experience? And how to do a good job of the product, so that customers are more willing to buy it, and its relationship with it closer.
So the focus of future competition in the Chinese market is not so much competition for products or brand competition as competition for customers. This also shows that the company needs to spend more thought and cost on its old customers and customer relationships.
How do luxury goods improve the loyalty between them and their customers?
LengYun: Thank you, Ms. Zhou. Our theme today is about learning from luxury goods how to improve customer stickiness, we all know that customer stickiness is one of the most important marketing means at the moment, it is not easy to catch a customer, after catching a customer how to maintain a long-term relationship with him is a very important thing.
As we all know, luxury services represent the highest level of the industry as a whole, can be said to be the highest level of retail. And in fact, many local companies in China, some high-end brands are also learning from luxury goods this way of treating VIP or VVIP, including doing offline activities, as well as improve their respective service levels. So we next ask Ms. Zhou to introduce, luxury goods and how to improve the stickiness between them and customers from the service point of view?
Dr. Zhou Ting: Thank you, LengYun, for throwing out a particularly good question, we all want to know how luxury brands serve their VIP? Where does your old customer consume energy? It reminds me that the last time I might have told you a little story during the live broadcast, it was a little problem I had when I was doing market consulting more than 10 years ago. What exactly is “customer satisfaction”? What is the customer satisfaction required by high-end customers? In fact, in different market levels, everyone’s service status and level is completely different.
For example, the last time I said, when I walked into a Chinese clothing brand store, the first thing we encountered was, “dear, what do you want to buy today?” “Sister, what would you like to buy today?” In fact, when a customer walks into the door of your store, the first person he faces the company or the brand’s first person’s eyes, a smile, greetings all determine the brand’s hierarchy. Because consumers may not necessarily know the founder of the brand, not necessarily to feel the brand founder’s dream and his design philosophy. But he can respond first to whether the brand is advanced or not. So I often encounter this situation in many clothing brand stores in China, coupled with the recent prevalence of Internet language, there is also the word “baby”, I was really laughing. Why?
First of all, these words are not necessarily bad, but they are rarely used when you’re in advanced situations and conversations with different levels. We say that at the door of the international big-name stores, we will meet the greeting: “Welcome to Chanel” and “Welcome to Hermes”. These greetings are very simple, very stubborn, and the whole language state is very orderly, completely different from the state of intention and saturation we encounter. These details are often overlooked by our businesses and brands. If you are a popular brand, the pursuit is to become friends with consumers, close the gap, you can use the “sister” “baby” such as the name, but if you are positioning as high-level, high-end and hierarchical people, and high-quality people to communicate, especially with a certain age and experience of the people speaking, these titles can not appear.
So when I walked in and said, “Sister, what would you like to drink today?” “I came to this store to buy clothes, and the Chinese brand I walked into was close to the big brands. This also reflects a mistake of our Chinese enterprises, feel that I put the price to increase I am a high-end brand. But to be honest, high prices don’t equal premium, which is two different things. When you instill in your employees the idea that “you have to serve your customers well, you have to give him a lot of choices, there is always a way to satisfy him”, have you ever thought about what this approach is?
When this clothing brand asked me: “Sister, we have white mushroom soup, Pu’er tea, mineral water, and orange juice, what you want to drink?” “I felt like I was walking into not a high-end clothing store, I was walking into an afternoon tea shop. If I were a picky person, I couldn’t help thinking: When did you make this silver ear soup? Where did you buy the silver ears? You said it was Pu’er tea. What’s the quality? Your intention is to provide customers with a lot of services, so that he felt that this diverse service is very intimate, there is always a suitable for you, but in fact run away.
First, you give the customer the incentive to really come to your store to spend. Second, you give him so much service, your service has not done in a perfect way? it becomes an opportunity to pick on the customer. The more you do, the more chances you have of making mistakes, and the more dissatisfied your customers are with you.
This is a very real problem. To this day, it often happens in some high-end restaurants, high-end medical and beauty, nail shops, as well as some Chinese bag stores. Just now I said the scene, the past 10 years still exist, we all take into account customer satisfaction, but what is the state? For international brands, especially luxury brands, it is the pursuit of customer satisfaction, but it regards customer satisfaction as a basic level.
But in the mass consumption industry, customer satisfaction will be divided into dissatisfaction, basic satisfaction, more satisfied and very satisfied. Then you will also be based on your service content and service quality divided into different levels. But in the luxury industry, or at the high end, this is the most basic.
Luxury services add value
So how do luxury brands do it? What they do is, even if it’s just one thing, but this one thing I have to do is the best in the industry. They won’t offer you many services, but they will do everything right. So we’ll find that in many international brands, they also have drinks or some services, but that’s how it is. For example, mineral water, it will choose glass bottles. The appearance of glass bottles of mineral water, it also reflects the cost of this water is relatively expensive, packaging is more advanced. So how did this bottle of water serve? It was delivered to the customer in a tray with a paper sleeve over the glass. Opened by the waiter in front of the guest and slowly poured into the cup, the whole process is simple, slow and elegant. They are using this process to create this pleasing view of the customer himself.
At the same time we will see the brand will also use high-grade porcelain, to bring you a cup of fragrant coffee, with the best coffee beans and special coffee grinder and so on. So we’ll find that luxury brands offer only coffee and water, but the process gives you a sense of superiority. So when we want to provide some additional services to our customers in the store, it’s also a contrast.
Cultivate customer loyalty
Contact the second question we just talked about, why should the company pay attention to good customers? Contacting customers is because they need to develop them into loyal customers, and increasing their reputation for the brand and increasing the repurxing rate is extremely important to the brand and the company. So how do you get these big customers out of their hands, good customers?
Today we say that for international luxury companies, they are more focused on customer loyalty path building. This includes “creating customers – being close to customers – serving customers – moving customers – retaining customers”. International brand companies do much more than our Chinese companies in this process. In order to achieve this customer loyalty, in addition to some conventional industry services, international brand companies have a killer, called “customer surprise”, is to achieve a leap in the heart of customers, so as to give him space to dream of this method.
What is called “customer surprise” it is when the customer sees the “Wow” sound. The key behind this is to develop a creative process, a new idea and a mechanism business, that is constantly being created in the process, and that is consistent with the creative process of the brand concept.
Luxury companies maintain relationships with VIP customers
LengYun: Next is our last question today, VIP customers. Just now Ms. Zhou also said, in fact, they also exist in the 2/8 principle. In the case mentioned by Mr. Zhou, 6% of the customers contributed 60% of their sales, which shows that these VIP or VVIP customers are very important. Let’s ask Ms. Zhou to share how luxury companies maintain their relationship with VIP customers.
Dr. Zhou Ting: On this issue, I suddenly remembered that two weeks ago in an EMBA class share, some new entrepreneurs complained to me, she said: “I think the service of luxury brands is good, but I do not feel her good service.” I still have to line up at the door, in my capacity, I feel that my service is not good at all! ”
In fact, I am thinking of another problem, in the door queue is indeed a luxury company’s situation, we in Shanghai Hang Lung, including Beijing’s SKP these big names will see a long line at the door. Especially during the outbreak, this kind of team seems to line up from morning to night, feeling that luxury brands sell particularly well.
First, why there is such a queuing policy, because luxury companies have been pursuing one-on-one service, he hopes his staff can provide every customer with a full range of full process services. He is not a one-to-many state, not one person to three people, even ten people, twenty people. If you go to the duty-free shop to buy cosmetics, find that everyone does not need to queue, all customers are scattered, just ask the sales staff how much the price? Where can I get the goods? And then can you help him find someone? Including you may go to some fast fashion brands, Uniqlo such a brand will be in this state, just find what you want, you do not need service, he does not have to provide you with special services.
But this is not the case with international brand companies, which pursue one-on-one. In fact, it must be kept within a certain area, VIP customers or consumers have enough space to select goods and try on goods. Of course, because the purchase of relatively expensive products, need to maintain privacy, so there is a queue policy. But not everyone needs to line up?
You might want to say that there’s a class of people who don’t have to queue, and if it’s a VIP like a star, VVIP, you probably won’t see where he came from. We know that in Shanghai, Nanjing West Road Hang Lung underground garage has an elevator is directly to some brands of the third floor VIP room, many stars are from the passageway into, rather than from the front of the shop into. He bought something in the back and then quietly walked away from the back, so there would be a few ways to get a front and back door in the aisles of a luxury company, which is not the same as mass consumption.
In fact, the differences in service felt by the person who made these complaints have something to do with the way he spends. Maybe he bought a lot of luxury goods, but they’re all bought here, there’s some, they’re bought abroad, they’re bought at home. But we know that to become a VIP in an international brand company is a period of time or a single consumption to reach how much money, you immediately began to enjoy a different treatment. So it may be because of the way he spends. Although he has money and buys a lot of luxury goods, but does not enjoy the brand’s VIP, this is an interesting case.
I’d like to share some of the practices of international brands, which typically systematically observe customers over a period of 3 months, 6 months, 9 months, 12 months. Some customers if 3 months, 6 months, 9 months, 12 months, every 3 months have a payment, but this customer did not come to the store, the brand will start to call customers, or use various methods to communicate to reach this customer. Find out why he is spending and give him the opportunity to deliver potential new places, or special events and benefits, so he can come back to the store again. So, you’ll find that as the times go on, it’s becoming more and more extravagant to have customers spend time in your store.
Because time is the most precious, especially for high-end consumers, today he is willing to spend time in your store, which represents a certain degree of success, then the next opportunity to provide him with marketing. So, in the next stage is a new stage, is to store consumption needs to become more and more comfortable, how can with new experiences, new services, and even new products to let customers come to the store? It became very technical.
So, let’s summarize, in the commodity system, VIP service characteristics have a few points.
The first point is to pay great attention to the relationship between sales and VIPs. In fact, in addition to the trust and endorsements that corporate goodwill builds, the relationship between individuals is very important. This trust based on selling individuals is a test of personal ability. We will find that there are many people in the industry we study who enjoy the trust they have in their own expertise, including him and his family, and his friends. Some people even throw credit cards in their sales hands and let them help them get the bags they want or new ones. As you can imagine, this trust may be beyond the relationship, I’m afraid your husband has never got your credit card in his life, but your wife left her credit card with the sales consultant. So that means this trust relationship between the sale of goods and the individual customer is very important.
Second, privacy sharing and personalized customization work. Through each sharing, we have become friends with guests, so often we will find some old customers to the store is not simply to say to buy things, may be a long time gone, he is looking forward to sales to communicate with him, and then share their emotions, share their own different topics, perhaps share their own small joy, by the way to buy a bag. So now the personal relationship between sales and VIP, this privacy sharing has become a special way for two people to communicate.
Another point is customization. The industry is beginning to show great customization, creating more and more value. Colorful activities become the connection point of the relationship, which is also in Shanghai, Chengdu, Beijing has a lot of brand show exhibition, a variety of information activities. These are important points of association.
Fourth, commodities are not simple interest development, but also their own technical and quantitative places, is supported by the entire data system, and is gradually globalized. When VIP customers, whether in Beijing, Shanghai or the Internet, as soon as he enters the store, we can know the customer’s preferences in the first place.
The fifth feature, new products and end-of-season discounts is an important breakthrough in the often-present VIP relationship. Discount is an effective value-added service, is the old customer think he as a big customer, as VIP enjoy a special treatment. This is completely different from our Chinese brand on the Internet 618, double 11 kind of discount. First, this industry law is not a price strategy, is to give VIP a benefit, this is completely different place.
Finally, I would like to summarize, what is the core of luxury VIP services? In fact, it is a one-to-one relationship coupled with high emotional value customization services. Through the high emotional value customization service, you will find that all of these custom services you do are designed to create this emotion for the customer, to create dreams for him, to satisfy some of his dreams and some ideas. So the whole VIP customer establishment and maintenance process is in these consumption processes. Whether it’s to shop or home service, or through WeChat this online means to communicate with VIP customers, in short, you have to maintain no matter online and offline is a one-to-one relationship. This service method even if moved from the line to the line, it is also the same advanced, details have not been thrown away, all the words, language, statements are to better bring him a higher emotional feeling, but also with a professional to meet his consumption or service needs, to pay attention to details, to do a good job of form. Finally, thank Ms. Zhou again, if you are interested in luxury goods or courses, welcome to pay attention. See you next Tuesday.
I believe all girls will love beautiful jewelry, which is never enough in your closet. Let’s explore the beauty of fashion jewelry and understand its safety and business value.
Simulated Fashion Jewelry Definitions and Common Product Categories
What is simulated jewelry?
Moderator: What is jewelry like in everyone’s eyes?
Audience Eileen: I like minimalist ones.
Audience Juju: The highlight of bling-bling is to match the artifacts.
Moderator: All girls will love beautiful jewelry, just like the one in the closet that is never too much. Not only with artifacts, but also a good helper to enhance temperament. Simulation jewelry is mentioned in the outline, and the jewelry we are talking about tonight is fashion jewelry, non-precious metal jewelry, which is what we usually call fashion jewelry.
Audience White: I think jewelry is a “beware machine” to add highlights to yourself.
Audience Eileen: It’s the finishing touch, but it’s just right to be eye-catching.
Audience Kafka: Swarovski is fashion jewelry, isn’t it?
Moderator: It is a brand. It is fashion jewelry, generally, this brand to do real gold products can also be summed up as real jewelry category.
Audience White: Does fashion jewelry include precious metal jewelry?
Moderator: A simple definition is called “fashion accessories”. Simulated jewelry refers to small items for personal wear, such as rings, bracelets, bracelets (except watch straps), collars, earrings, brooches, etc., and these items do not contain precious metals or precious metals (except plating or accessories). Simulation jewelry is mainly made of base metal products, as well as for non-metallic materials. Gold, sterling silver, platinum metal in the range of precious metals, summarized as real jewelry. We’re talking about fashions that are more non-precious, more for everyday use, and suitable for all ages.
Common product categories
Moderator: What are the product categories that you often know?
Audience White: Here refers to simulation jewelry is base metal products, so-called base metals, refers to copper, iron, aluminum.
Moderator: Yes, we generally do not attribute copper iron to zinc alloys to precious metals. But Chinese customs classify “copper” as a precious metal export. The cost of copper is in the middle, such as gold and zinc alloys in the middle.
Audience Lilly: At present, the market fashion jewelry metal materials mainly brass, alloy based. Audience Eileen: We do designer brands or use brass in the majority.
Audience White: Feel the public daily use more necklaces, bracelets, earrings, and some hair cards. Audience Juju: Bracelets, rings, badges.
Audience melons: It is also common to add a layer of clinging to a bright silver accessory, which is made of brass as the main material.
Audience amin: Brass gold plated for about the same price as silver jewelry. Copper prices have risen so much this year that suppliers are raising prices.
Moderator: Light luxury, are real gold plated. Let me summarize our common categories, by location and style: (1) Necklace (neck chain); (2) Bracelets and foot chains, usually consisting of main chains, tail chains, various small connectors (e.g. lobster buckles, spring buckles, etc.) and pendants (castings) inlaid with gemstones; (3) Earring earrings (S925 silver needle medical stainless steel ear needle imitation allergy); (4) Brooch ring, divided into fixed size (Fixed Size American size 6-7-8-9-10) and adjustable size ring.
Nowadays we make adjustable rings, which do not have a fixed size (need to buy different models also worry about different sizes), buyers can also reduce procurement costs. The above two pictures are the kind of thing that looks adjustable.
Basic commonly used materials for jewelry
Moderator: What do you know about non-precious metal fashion jewelry materials?
Audience Queeni: Copper, alloys.
Audience Becky: Silver, alloy.
Audience AliceLiu: Titanium steel.
Moderator: I have a friend to do 3D printing research and development, it is more expensive than opened the version, cost-effectiveness is not high. Lilly also mentioned brass as the most used material. Light luxury products will use brass.
Audience Queeni: Yes, we sometimes make buttons, which means that brass embryos are more expensive than alloys.
Moderator: Zinc alloy is based on zinc to add other elements of the alloy, this material can do whatever shape you want, can do any customer wants the color of electroplating, cheap.
Audience Sandy: See often buy jewelry, the material is written: “copper plated 18K gold.”
Audience Eileen: The studio I work in is copper-plated 18k gold. But customers always react that copper will turn green, all think it is discolored.
Audience White: Copper green? This is the material in a specific environment for a long time.
Audience Lilly: It should be the electroplating ingredients and human sweat contact after this situation.
Moderator: Basic copper and alloys are mainstream materials. General plating is real gold rarely discolored. This is discussed in the later color preservation section.
Audience Sandy: Is 18K gold real gold?
Moderator: The main material is 18K gold even.
Audience Lilly: We used to mainly zinc alloy-based, after because according to market demand, and increased brass, brass currently accounted for 80%.
Moderator: The above summarizes the common metal materials are brass, alloy, stainless steel, iron. Non-metallic materials are: plastic and rubber products, such as sub -(press) gram resin, soft pottery, CCB, imitation pearls, etc., as well as pipe beads, silicone, imitation stone, rabbit hairball. Glass drills have crystals, imitation Swarovski crystals, glass, cat-eye stones and so on.
Audience Eileen: We were going to develop a lot of black-plated models that were super fast to color. Moderator: There may also be no color protection, we generally gilded products, with 2-3 years no problem. I have a lot of jewelry; real gold will not lose color. General simulation jewelry, the plating layer thickness of 1-2 s.
Audience Lilly: Paint or nano-protection for high temperatures.
Audience Queeni: I’ve heard from a fellow jewelry company who says their jewelry is coated at 3′ so they don’t lose color easily.
Audience White: Microns, 1 sm, 1 x 10-6m.
Moderator: We also use natural materials, such as natural stones, synthetic stones, pine stones, zircon. True gold is generally plated 2.5-3 s, this is the market, if you want to plate thick, some customers require plating plant plating 2-3 s.
Audience AliceLiu: There’s a lot of zircon.
Moderator: When it comes to zircon, I can share a picture.
Zircon generally requires professional tools to see, mainly gloss and cut surface. Zircon, diamonds, Mossan diamonds under the microscope, the general naked eye is difficult to distinguish, can only see brightness and cut. This picture was used for reference in our training before, and our tools couldn’t be taken. Which involves a special zircon call that needs to be subdivided, after all, and shape also has a relationship.
The Problem of Electroplating Color In Jewelry
What is plating?
Moderator: Because of the time relationship, we went on to discuss the issue of plating color preservation. Do you usually buy jewelry that fades a lot?
Audience melons: The non-metallic things I bought fade a lot. Mainly I wear a bath, perhaps shower gel these are more harmful to non-metallic. The metal part of the accessory is not clear why, wash and sleep I take off, or will fade.
Audience Kafka: I have a beautiful diamond ring, feel the silver part also has scratches, do not know whether it is usually wearing the reason for washing hands.
Moderator: Because I only do export, our products are color protection in 6 months to 2 years, I can not imagine our wearing will fade so much. I own a lot of jewelry, I can wear 2 years no problem, this maintenance also have a relationship. Let me intersperse the little knowledge of everyday wear.
Audience Kafka: It seems that whatever is plated, avoid the above several matters.
Audience melons: There will also be chronic oxidation in the air.
Audience White: I think so, the general precious metal oxidation speed is relatively slow. Sterling silver will gradually turn black, lively metal will not mention, but the alloy should be much better.
Moderator: Try to put the box when you don’t use it, the best maintenance. Only people know about plating, but has anyone thought about the principle of plating? Electroplating is the process of attaching a metal film to the surface of a metal or other material component by electrolysis, which is a more complex process. It not only protects the metal surface of the jewelry but also makes the surface of metal jewelry more beautiful. A layer of metallic plating can change the color and brightness of the ornament (there is a brightener in the plating solution.
Audience Queeni: How does plating preserve color? Good plating process, what’s the difference?
Audience Eileen: We made electroplating black before and fell very fast. We now want to do vacuum plating, but the vacuum plating of copper says that nickel must be bottomed, nickel is harmful to the body. Brands around them have begun to study stainless steel vacuum plating.
Audience amin: The best plating in China is in Dongguan. Vacuum plating is expensive and has no other problems.
Audience Eileen: Expensive is good, the main copper vacuum plating to first hit the bottom nickel, we do not dare to use nickel because it is harmful to human health. But the vacuum-plated color is nice.
Because a lot of people may have been to the plating plant, I’ll share some of the main pictures to help you understand.
Audience amin: We make bags, and hardware is electroplated.
Audience Baize: See the electroplating site for the first time. Are there any cleaning agents in these cleaning fluids?
Moderator: Yes, but with a dedicated name. We use ultrasonic cleaning to inject the right amount of degreasing fluid (e.g. degreasing water) into the inside to choose the right temperature. Washing is an indispensable part of the electroplating process, the quality of washing for the stability of the plating process and the appearance of electroplating products, corrosion resistance, and other quality indicators have a significant impact. Now in fact Yiwu plating can also, much better than in previous years because there are many plating masters in Guangdong to come to the local development.
Audience Lilly: Good electroplating factory is in Humen Phoenix Mountain, Panyu, and Zhongshan, Shenzhen. Mainly look at the technology of the plating plant, especially the technology of the plating master. Many used to be electroplating master control, but now many plating plants are semi-automated.
Audience melons: Do cleaning agents of different metal materials need to be used separately? Moderator: I don’t know at the moment. I’ve asked the plating master before, and they’re not separated. The surface of the material is washed with water to produce a thin oxide film, which affects the binding strength of the coating to the base metal. Therefore, pre-plating to be activated, so that the surface of the material produces slight corrosion, exposing the crystalline tissue of the metal, to ensure that the coating and substrate binding strength. The activated solution is thin and does not damage the finish of the material surface, usually only a few seconds to a minute. Activated pieces of jewelry (usually activated with dilute sulphuric acid) must be washed again, cleaned, and then electroplated. This is more professional, I asked the Guangdong electroplating master to understand, we can obtain the understanding and knowledge.
Color preservation principle and color preservation time
Moderator: Color preservation is related to plating quality. Good plating quality must comply with:
(1) With the substrate metal-binding solid, good adhesion.
(2) the coating is complete, the crystallization is meticulous and tight, the porosity rate is small.
(3) Have good physical, chemical, and mechanical properties (e.g., silver-plated, not because the time is too long, lobster buckle plated to death).
(4) There is a coating thickness in line with the standard provisions, and the coating distribution should be uniform.
After polishing, jewelry metal die molds, due to various processing and treatment, will inevitably adhere to a layer of oil and surface-generated oxide layer, which will affect the quality of the coating. Moreover, if the surface is not rough enough, it is difficult to plate a solid, corrosion-resistant coating on the surface of this material. Even if barely plated, in a very short period jewelry on the coating will be peeling, bubbles, hemp spots, spots, and other undesirable phenomena. Therefore, to ensure that the plating in line with the quality of plating, the pre-plating process should be fine. So, if you buy products to see bubbles, hemp points, are electroplating did not deal with the good out of the warehouse. Fashion jewelry with metal materials is an electroplating process to achieve long-term color preservation.
As mentioned above, electroplating is the use of electrolysis principles, coating the metal surface of other metals or alloys of the process, thus playing a role in preventing oxidation, improve wear resistance and aesthetics. So, what’s the difference between ordinary plating of earrings and real gold plating, and which color preservation will last longer?
Audience melons: But is there a way to judge the quality of plating? True gold plating will take a little longer.
Audience Queeni: True gold plating is thicker and lasts.
Moderator: For us, electroplating products that do not expose copper, exposed grass, no peeling, no hemp bubbles, electroplating uniform can be accepted, after all, plating thickness is required for professional testing. Ordinary electroplating is a layer of gold or silver on zinc alloy or copper parts, the appearance of color and real gold plating difference is not much, color preservation six months to one year, do not touch the water and corrosion protection color more durable, cost-effective, low-end products applicable.
True gold plating is used in electroplating liquid real gold and silver, commonly 14K gold, 16K gold, 18K gold, the higher the number of large values, the higher the cost. That’s why real gold plating is more expensive. Compared with ordinary electroplating color brighter, long-lasting color protection, not easy to lose color, normal wear at least 2 years, good maintenance will be more durable, suitable for high-end products.
Audience Kafka: Teacher, is this copper plating?
Moderator: This accessory is a bit like stainless steel, I’m not sure. Gold plating from the naked eye and imitation gold can not see, need to be put together to see, gloss will be more obvious. To add, ordinary water-plated gold is not real gold and silver (it is a mixture of several chemical components).
AudienceQueeni: Normal plating or ordinary water plating? What’s the difference between plating and water plating?
Moderator: This is different from the name, water plating is placed in the sink through conduction, on the metal layer.
The production process of jewelry
1. Alloy products
Moderator: Fashion jewelry production process, if not engaged in the industry, I think you can easily understand it. At least everyone knows how these fashion products are formed. Our main sub-alloy products and copper products, general alloys and drills, glass drills with copper and zircon matching. If you are curious why this match, intersperse our training pictures.
Mainly to take you through the entire production molding process. The small difference between copper and alloy is also a grinder. Copper wax mold, alloy generally less use glue mold. The following drawings.
These are the film of the alloy, and that’s how it’s formed.
Above is the wax mold. Share the production process with you below.
Audience White: Generally jewelry from development to market, the cycle is how long?
Moderator: The process is more complex, I put the main process in the form of pictures and share with you, if interested can be further in-depth communication. Usually, the design is finalized and it takes 7-14 days to sample.
Simulate the core competencies of jewelry
1. Design innovation ability
Moderator: Because each industry has different attributes, but it has its core competencies. The fashion jewelry industry, basically design innovation and supply chain advantages are your core competitiveness. Behind every brand are these two cores. You can share your opinions. The threshold of fashion jewelry is not high, but not low. Fashion fast consumer goods are the pursuit of the fast, new style, your new speed will also affect your market occupancy.
Audience Queeni: Can it be said that the design ability of the factory, only more survival advantage?
Audience Eileen: Our studio is a niche designer brand, shipping supply chain instability led to frequent shipments to replenish too slowly, resulting in a lot of design has been dragging. Although jewelry is not seasonal, very affects the development of the brand.
Audience White: I think as long as the end is to sell to consumers, the core is to seize the needs of consumers.
Audience Eileen: I think there needs to be innovation and quality control. Each style has a corresponding crowd, find your style’s corresponding target group, mainly or taste control.
Moderator: To take a real case, at that time my friend factory because of the new 800-1000 models per month, is the overseas design team, the big customers have Macy’s, Walmart these. Although the shipment is not good because the design is good enough, the product is good enough, customers also love and hate them.
Audience Eileen: We are also the problem. Design everyone likes, encounter degluing off-color is a really big head. So a good design also requires a good factory to make a match for good quality.
Moderator: When it comes to design innovation, there are two kinds of industries in this industry. (1) 100% original (designer) ;(2) change the color.
1 Original designer from color matching, layout theme, local culture, trend elements, age groups to design.
Most of the industry is to imitate the big names, change the layout design, change the color match.
Audience Eileen: In fact, there is no absolute originality, with the designer’s education, see things or have a relationship. Some are not plagiarism, just think of a piece to go. Speed and time can also improve the user viscosity, on the new slow customers slowly forget.
Audience White: Much like the apparel industry. I don’t know if it’s because the information is passing fast now, and what you see overlaps is high.
Audience Lilly Original design jewelry in the design and development to the board out of the finished product time is relatively long but generally concentrated in Guangdong’s production plants. Customers on this side want to quickly out of the performance, or change the design will be fast.
Moderator: The industry wants to quickly take over online, and the re-version is the fastest. Some factories will specifically open up a line to sample, on the new speed of 3-7 days to complete other people’s normal 7-15 days. With new products, there must also be back-end production to support, that is, supply chain production capacity. Now spell China speed, but also spell quality.
Audience Queeni: Our accessories are the same. Guangzhou dyeing is much faster than Jiangsu and Zhejiang.
Audience Eileen: Design, speed, quality.
Supply chain production
Moderator: What kind of supply chain do you think is good? 1
Audience Eileen: Rhythm is not procrastinatory, proactive, rather than squeezing toothpaste to squeeze out a little bit of suppliers better cooperation. Quality control themselves consciously can do a bit at a time, not to return to work. Our brand in January, now the bulk of the goods have not yet come out, each time a bunch of questions, but sent back to rework for only one problem, and the rest of the whole has not changed. Encounter a good factory is very difficult, the main niche designer brand orders up to a few hundred, many factories are hoping that the single volume is large rather than more than a small amount.
Audience White: Suppliers themselves also want high standards, strict requirements, do not have the mentality of fish in murky water.
Moderator: All of the above are specific points, but it is difficult to have a very conscious supplier. I think good supply chain production capacity includes the following:
The entire industrial chain needs to be coordinated (from source to warehouse, such as raw material suppliers, such as electroplating plants).
Production line capacity (fast shipping, scheduling capacity) during high season.
Diversification of categories (different factories solve product diversification problems).
The best match between supply and demand.
(Customers) minimum demand chain – (supplier’s) minimum order volume
(Customers) minimum demand time . . . (supplier’s) shortest production cycle
The best match between supply and demand is the optimal and core production supply advantage.
Audience White: Our company is a clothing supplier. I’ve been in the testing center before, and with this experience, a lot of people have a lucky mentality.
Moderator: Fashion jewelry industry or small and medium-sized factories. Industry attributes, more than 100 people in the finished product factory are sent to small processing plants.
Audience Queeni: Is it because the amount is much less?
Audience Lilly Factory version to meet your design requirements, which determines the layout master is very important. In the development capacity of the factory, the starting version of the master is the key, the layout is done well, but also related to the subsequent production is smooth.
Moderator: In fact, the industry is below a lot of small processing plants, the number of people is a few people, a dozen people, dozens of people. I have sent a lot of production processes before, every process link needs quality control, needs to implement standards the factory is too small when it is difficult to put the details into every link.
Audience White: Is it really small, no big factory?
Audience Lilly Some masters do well, but by the time they produce large goods, there will be many problems, resulting in production delays. Large and small factories are about the production of factories and the ability to solve problems.
Moderator: Yes, it’s MOQ (minimum quantitative), and the cost is relatively less flexible. This industry is special, sometimes there is no problem with typing, large quantities may have problems. This requires the plant’s ability to respond. A good factory always has a solution for the customer. Production problems are not avoidable, the key is the speed of response and processing power, as well as attitude.
A market for jewelry at home and abroad
Domestic market channels
Moderator: If you’ve ever worked in this industry, do you know anything about the jewelry market at home and abroad? For example, the domestic market channels, you generally have an understanding? I don’t have much exposure to the domestic market, but I know the sound of shaking. I have a friend to do light luxury products, shaking sound life a day out of 100,000 RMB, did 2 months.
Audience Queeni: How many fans? What’s the price? Is it a brand?
Audience Eileen: We’re a shop, but the live stream is indeed going fast now.
Moderator: My friend’s products can not be regarded as a brand, just started to do, the price of 30-200 yuan, fans not many on 5000 people, but very accurate. Her live anchors are storytellers, and there’s a story behind every product, so she grows fast.
Audience Queeni: Are these products designed by themselves? Otherwise how to make up the story.
Moderator: No, it’s all factory-provided money, they choose it. They have positioning, the crowd is 30-55 years old. Because they are very familiar with friends, they still know very well. They are a very integrated culture, each pair of products has a different name.
Audience Eileen: We’re also thinking about whether to do it from the media or to go online traffic. Little Red Book has a biubiu to do jewelry class, but also their own life with goods. 1
Audience White: Seeing the text introduction of this screenshot, I think it’s a cultural person. I also like the little stories that have been excavated from history. Stories and products are more likely to touch consumers than only products.
Audience Lilly: Now the TikTok is really strong. But today many customers received information, shaking sound now jewelry category does not let on the shelf.
Audience Eileen: Century Xie, the head of the niche designer brand ALP, is also a fan of Little Red Book storytelling.
Moderator: At present, the domestic market channels Third-party platforms (JD.com Tiantao do more only products, etc.), these platforms currently belong to the Red Sea, personal feeling very burning money. Live platform (fast handshaking, etc.). Independent official website. Physical stores. About the platform live broadcast, such as TikTok, I have specifically learned a lot of shops, basically is also the 19 principle, many businesses are also difficult to make money. Some people bring goods up for 2 months, but the return rate is also very high, most people are impulse consumption. In addition, zircon products on the shaker platform also need to produce a certificate of identification.
Audience White: What is the 19th Principle?
Moderator: The 19th principle means that only 10% of businesses can make money. Just like Tmall now, Taobao, KA merchants have to burn money, are capital burned out. I now mainly do cross-border, foreign marketing channels we should all know some.
Foreign marketing channels
Audience melons: Does Moderator mean the Asian market or the overseas market?
Moderator: Outside China, the company has its target market. But it’s the second half of the year because Amazon has problems with overseas positions. But cross-border e-commerce needs to be capital-injected to get up quickly.
Audience White: What’s the specific problem?
Moderator: We are now doing Ali International Station B-Side plus Social Media and Independent Official Website. Social media is run by overseas teams through Facebook, Instagram, LinkedIn. If you do not send to overseas positions first, the advantages are not obvious, but too heavy funds. Amazon is more operational. Before the outbreak, the Shenzhen side also has a lot of Amazon merchants crossed. I have a friend last year to do 200 million in Amazon, because of over-expansion, resulting in a problem with overseas positions, funds are not liquid, suddenly do collapse. Do you do a lot of foreign markets around you?
Audience melons: I have friends to do Taobao and brick-and-mortar stores.
Audience Lilly: Amazon is more affected. My friend factory-made Swarovski crystal elements, supplied to Amazon, and all of a sudden the order was only a third. Coupled with Swarovski’s cancellation of crystal authorizations from the end of last year, it’s embarrassing that there’s still so much in the crystal inventory, but the platform has a lot fewer orders.
Moderator: Yes, the future export, is the export of fine, excellent products. So in fact, this industry, compared to other industries, has a better chance of producing brands. Unlike in the first 10 years, some goods and exports make money. And the future is excellent products, boutique, a brand can occupy more overseas markets.
Audience Lilly: Yes, we all recommend customers to do brand and is a boutique brand, some customers are also in transition, the future should be China’s jewelry brand to the world.
Audience Queeni: Was it because overseas markets were not demanding? Or are there few such factories overseas?
Moderator: It was relatively easy to make money from previous export trade when the Internet was less developed.
To sum up, briefly, the main marketing channels abroad are Cross-border e-commerce B-side (Ali International Station Global Resources Dunhuang Network). Cross-border e-commerce C-side (Amazon shrimp skin quick sale, etc.). Social media (Facebook, Instagram, LinkedIn, Tiktok, YouTube). Independent official website. At present, a lot of fashion jewelry curry is the official website, platform, and social media occupation, there has been a certain degree of brand publicity.
Audience Lilly: CDE, one of the most successful brands around me, from manufacturing plants to the C-side, from Tmall to Amazon. Amazon is already a big seller of jewelry.
Audience White: Official websites, platforms, and social media all have their division of labor.
Moderator: Jewelry small items, easy to solve overseas logistics problems, or more suitable selection. The ability to be fully laid out, now a single channel is more difficult, it may take a long time to occupy the market, to get a piece of the pie. For example, Ali is also going to Google to buy traffic ads, then why can’t you just go to Google to promote? Private domain traffic is the same as someone in China who is doing it from the media now.
Audience White: Now the major platforms have developed, feel that consumer choice is a more, distraction, for businesses is also a problem.
Moderator: Yes, that’s why people say it’s not easy to make money because the market is regulated, mature, and needs more professional, segmented, patient people. If you are interested to learn about 51 jewelry network, this is also a channel to share jewelry.
First, simulation of fashion jewelry definitions and common product categories
What is simulation jewelry
Simulated jewelry refers to small items such as rings, bracelets, collars, earrings, brooches, etc. that can be worn by individuals. And these items do not contain precious metals or package precious metals (except plating or gadgets). Gold, sterling silver, platinum metal in the range of precious metals, summarized as real jewelry.
Common product categories
By location and style classification: necklaces (neck chains), bracelet bracelets and anklets, earrings, brooches, rings, hairpins, and so on.
Second, jewelry, the basic commonly used materials
Metal materials – alloy, copper, stainless steel, iron Non-metallic materials – plastic and rubber products, sub (press) gram, resin, soft pottery, CCB, imitation pearls, tube beads, silicone, imitation stone, wool ball glass drill, crystal, imitation Swarovski crystal, glass, cat’s eye stone and so on.
Natural materials – natural stones/synthetic stones, pine stones, zircon.
Third, jewelry electroplating color preservation problem
-What is plating?
A process by which a metal film is attached to the surface of a metal or other material.
Color preservation principle and color preservation time: pre-plating process processing and plating quality related.
Fourth, jewelry production process:
Designed → sculpted→ molded→ turned sand→ soldered (connected) → Polished→ electroplated→ assembled → packaging (in storage) → for sale.
Five, simulation of the core competitiveness of jewelry
Design innovation/supply chain production capacity
Six, jewelry at home and abroad market
1. Domestic market channels – Third-party platform (JD.com Tiantao multi-product club, etc.); – Live platform (fast handshaking sound, etc.); – Independent official website; – Physical stores. – Third-party platform (JD.com Tiantao multi-product club, etc.); – Live platform (fast handshaking sound, etc.); – Independent official website; – Physical stores. 2. Foreign marketing channels – Cross-border e-commerce B-side (Ali International Station Global Resources Dunhuang network); – Cross-border e-commerce C-end (Amazon shrimp skin fast-selling, etc.); – Social media (Facebook, Instagram, LinkedIn, Tiktok, YouTube); – Independent official website. 1) Enter a partial IP hostname note to search for logins (if unique).
Is children’s clothing design just casually drawing a cartoon pattern? Children’s clothes are a scaled-down version of adult clothes? It’s the 21st century, are you still looking at children’s clothes with prejudice? Why do many young designers refuse to enter the children’s wear industry? After 3 years of experience in the children’s clothing design industry, I quickly learned commercial illustration after work and applied it to clothing. I understand that there is still a long way to go and want to talk to your predecessors and designers who love illustration.
Does the proportion of children’s clothing designs equal to the shrinking size of adult designs?
The difference between children’s clothing and adult wear
Moderator: What do you think is the difference between children’s clothes and adult clothes? Do you have a favorite children’s clothing brand, what style? What type would you prefer?
Audience Aurora: I also like the style of MINI PEACE. Once I saw the style of the picture, I felt pretty good. Adult clothes and children’s clothing should be different in the layout, even if the same 160-foot T-shirt, the layout will be very different?
Audience Jocelyn: Jiangnan cloth children’s clothing also has its style. I think children’s wear material selection will be more cautious.
Audience Bill: Adult clothing for the layout requirements are relatively high, children’s clothing is more interesting, color patterns can be richer. 1
Audience Chloe: Barabara and Jiangnan cloth children’s cloth, quite a lot of European brands of children’s clothing is also very cute. Baby cotton requirements will be higher, as a mother, I will focus on zero formaldehyde. At the same price, I sometimes go directly to 1688 to buy better quality, eliminating middlemen’s fees.
Audience Bill: Children’s wear time is relatively short, parents should pay great attention to the price-performance ratio when buying it. Children’s wear comfort and safety will be higher, windproof and warm design in children’s clothing will be more attention.
Audience Beans: Children’s clothing will also be required for accessories such as buckles or ropes.
Moderator: Yes, children’s clothes have very strict requirements for drawing ropes. The draw rope in each area has a cm requirement and cannot be exceeded, which is to prevent children from getting tangled and dangerous. Not only the drawing rope and accessories decorative buckle, etc., to prevent children from swallowing, but there are also strict standards.
About the brand, I like the style of Malading. I am very amazing to see it the first time in the mall, it is very artistic.
Audience Aurora: Will children’s fabrics place more emphasis on anti-fouling or decontamination properties?
Audience Bill: Zippers are not designed up and down two, easy to wear. I always feel the color of Barbara is warm, the color of FILA is cold, and The Pink of Annell is too pink. Do children’s coats have to wear hats?
Moderator: Zippers are designed on the top and bottom, and single zippers are also designed in many. That might have something to do with their brand positioning, what do you think?
Audience Jocelyn: This has to do with the age and functionality of the garment itself.
2. Age classification for children’s clothing
Moderator: Children’s fabrics value safety and comfort more. Children’s fabrics are divided into ABC three categories: Class A requirements are the highest, suitable for infant products; Does everyone know what age groups children’s clothing is on the market? Generally speaking, the age group of children’s clothing is divided into infants, children, middle-aged children, and older children. Children’s clothing size relative to adults more. Have you ever noticed what style these age groups are? I design more for middle-aged children, boys, the style will be cool tide class.
Audience Bill: Is the gender difference in children’s clothing clear enough? When I was young, I didn’t pay attention to my clothes, and my childhood ended in the blink of an eye.
Audience WISDOM Lin: I have two babies and find boys in light blue and black and white. Most of the girls are pink, coral powder, and white. The boys were designed with Spider-Man, Altman, and more elements of the letters. And the girl is a small broken flower, lotus leaf edge, princess skirt more. Genderless wind should be adults’ apparel.
Audience Aurora: I’ve found that older girls are also quite close to the trend of women’s wear. Like this year’s popular new national wind, there seems to be quite a lot of improved cheongsam.
Moderator: I design boys’ clothes and find that many parents buy them for girls. I think the gender difference in children’s clothing is not so obvious, but in fact, many children’s clothing brands on the market are more targeted, girls prefer sweet, princess skirts these styles. Boys will do some trend IP co-names. The common style of children’s clothing on the market for baby cute wind, casual Korean style, cool trend wind, vintage sen style, sweet princess wind, dresses, and so on. Individuals believe that gender-neutral winds are a big trend in the future.
Audience Bill: I tend to think that gender differences are becoming more and more obvious trends, probably personal preferences, boys are getting more and more girly, and it is expected to stimulate the little hearts of parents, which will form a culture in the long run.
What is a commercial illustration?
1. Areas of commercial illustration applications
Moderator: Just after Dragon Boat Festival last week, did everyone eat rice dumplings? Have you noticed the packaging on the tweezers this is a commercial illustration? Do you know what a commercial illustration is? What do you know about commercial illustrations? We have commercial illustrations everywhere around us, you can see what is around with commercial illustrations linked?
Audience Beans: Web pages, product packaging is not a commercial illustration?
Audience Jocelyn: There are a lot of social software avatars that fall into the category of commercial illustration, as well as some handbooks, cover designs, and so on.
Audience Bill: Flower pattern on curtains, embroidery on towels.
Moderator: Commercial illustration has a commercial purpose and pays attention to popularization. Excellent commercial illustration can catch the attention of consumers, to achieve the promotion of enterprises, shape the corporate image, enhance product value, and other roles.
2. Common business illustration styles and tools
Moderator: What are the common illustration styles you can talk about? Commercial illustration applications are very wide, common packaging design, poster design, creative, book covers, IP image, and so on. The heat of these two years is relatively high in the national wind painting, tide illustration.
Audience Bill: Cartoon characters, landscape, flowers, and trees.
Audience Beans: Noise style, 2.5d style, painted style, and so on.
Moderator: Commercial illustrations come in a variety of styles: flat illustrations, graffiti wind illustrations, national tide illustrations, vector illustrations, pop art, and so on. Do you know what tools commercial illustrations are made of?
Audience Beans: PS, AI, SAI, and other tools?
Audience Beans: procreate also uses a lot of people.
Moderator: That’s right, that’s roughly it. The most commonly used painting software in clothing is AI and PS.
Illustration in children’s clothing design
Common pattern expressions in children’s clothing
Moderator: Do you know what the patterns are? Pay attention to observe that there are many types of typography for patterns in clothing. What are the common illustration elements?
Audience Bill: In addition to being printed on clothes as a pattern, illustrations will also become part of the style. Like alligator teeth on the edge of a hat, the shape of a pocket, and a stitching design.
Audience Beans: Repeated pattern elements?
Audience Aurora: Letters?
Moderator: Here’s a look at a set of patterns I’ve made.
Audience Bill: This round fat bear is suitable for making an armband.
Moderator: There are many ways to express the pattern, the most important thing is to know how to split elements, and then combine them, such works are also commercial. The patterns in the garment are broadly divided into local patterns and board patterns (separate patterns and continuous clothing patterns). Common pattern elements include animals, plants, words, quirky abstractions, repetitive elements, and so on. The most popular expression in children’s clothing is anthropomorphic. A big trend now is IP co-creation.
Moderator: Do we think that children’s clothing should conform to the child’s aesthetic or adult’s aesthetic?
Audience Beans: It should be an adult’s aesthetic. Because adults buy for their children.
Audience Chloe: If it is a toddler and a child, it should be based on adult aesthetics. But to middle and big children, children will have their aesthetic standard.
Moderator: Yes, or you can make a balance. Many parents also respect their children’s thoughts. If you were an adult, what style of clothes would you buy for your child, would you consider your child’s hobbies and buy them again?
Audience Bill: I’ve always wanted to ask the question, is children’s clothes sold to parents or children?
Audience WISDOM Lin: My family is a girl, I will give priority to the child selection, and then I give the child screening again, otherwise buy back something she does not want to wear.
Noon-Shanghai-6 Group Vice-Owners: Children buy whatever they like to wear.
Audience Aurora: I remember when I was young, I bought my mother and I liked one, so everyone was happy.
Moderator: I like to pick some clothes in the shopping cart, let my sister see, first after my aesthetic, and then let her see.
Audience Chloe: Pay for or adults, adults mainly still want children to dress cute, good-looking, proper. In this range, it is up to the child to choose whether it is cool or simple aesthetic. But the first function of clothing is to look good, and then children’s clothing will enlarge the range of safety and comfort. Like my mother, I will buy a few sets at a time that can be assembled and matched with each other, so that buy timesaving, usually wear also do not bother.
Audience Bill: If the target customer is a parent, then children’s clothing is a gift from the parents to the child, and if the target customer is a child, then children’s clothing is the teaching material that parents use to develop their child’s aesthetic ability. Adults are too clever to let adults pick, then the business’s serial rate can not go up. If the target customer is a child, the height of the container will be reduced to the child’s height.
Moderator: I don’t think the two are so tangled, because designers design when considering the range acceptable to adults and children. For example, girls are sweet, for design elements are butterflies, princess bubble skirts, boys are dinosaurs, space robots.
Learn Illustration from scratch
Moderator： Where do you usually get illustration pictures?
Audience Beans: Petals, Pinterest.
Audience Chloe: Pinterest，Tunblr，Behance
Audience WISDOM Lin: Pinterest，Instagram。
Moderator: I like to walk around the station cool and Gutian Road, a look can see all afternoon. Design sites: Station Cool, Goto Road, Lofter, Pinterest, Behance, etc. Is there any other way to get inspiration for patterns than websites?
Moderator: Share my inspiration from a photo and then spread out a series of patterns.
Audience Bill: There are also popular emoji bags, motion pictures.
Moderator: The Audience mentions some channels. For inspiration, we can get from design sites: Station Cool, Gutian Road, Lofter, Pinterest, and other website platforms as well as life, discover the beauty of life, more art exhibitions, fabric exhibitions.
As an illustrator, first of all, accumulate a certain aesthetic, slowly and then have their style. The illustration is not only a pattern expression but also a text design, color, layout, and so on. To accumulate a lot, learn to observe the master’s works, more analysis.
I’ve summarized a few suggestions for your reference:
(1) Master basic software and professional knowledge. Use AI software and master the sketch foundation, color matching, clothing printing process, and other knowledge.
(2) Accumulate aesthetics and analyze more excellent business works to learn to balance art and business.
(3) Create your style, make your work differentiated, recognizable, so that you can go further in this career.
(4) Love illustration, have a childlike heart.
Zero foundation starts with Linyi’s favorite style illustration. You can visit the design site to find illustrators, some illustrators will open classes like can report, the class will be much easier than self-study. Catching the popular style is to visit more design websites and exhibitions, my personal very practical little secret is to participate in the design competition, as well as pay attention to the industry’s more well-known illustrators, design competitions do not participate, see can also understand a lot of the latest styles.
Audience Bill: Does the copyright belong to the company for illustrations created by the company? Can I use my previous work after changing the company?
Audience Aurora: What design competitions are there? What channels do you know?
Moderator: Creation copyright in the company belongs to the company and does not belong to the individual. So many illustrators will choose to be freelance illustrators, so that copyright in their own hands, can also be sent on major illustration sites.
First, is children’s clothing design the shrinking size of the adult design or not
1. The difference between children’s clothing and adult wear Children’s clothing pays special attention to comfort and safety, decorative accessories rope with certain requirements. Children’s clothing size is relatively large compared to adults. Children’s fabrics are divided into ABC three categories: a category of the highest requirements, suitable for infant products; Common children’s style on the market for baby cute wind, casual Korean style, cool trend wind, retro Sen style, sweet princess style, dress and so on.
2. Age classification of children’s clothing It is broadly divided into infants, children, middle-aged children, and children.
Second, 3D design applications what is commercial illustration
Commercial illustration has a commercial purpose and pays attention to popularization. Excellent commercial illustration can catch the attention of consumers, so to achieve the promotion of enterprises, shape the corporate image, enhance product value, and other roles.
1. Commercial illustration application areas: packaging design, poster design, creative, book cover, IP image.
2. Common commercial illustration style: flat illustration, noise style, 2.5d style, graffiti wind illustration, national tide illustration, vector illustration, Pop art, etc. in these two years the heat is relatively high in the national wind illustration.
3. Introduction to the tools of commercial illustration: PS, AI, C4D.
Third, illustration in children’s clothing design
Common pattern expressions in children’s clothing
The patterns in the garment are broadly divided into local patterns and board patterns (separate patterns and continuous clothing patterns) Common pattern elements include animals, plants, words, quirky abstractions, repetitive elements, and so on. The most popular expression in children’s clothing is anthropomorphic. At present, the general trend is IP co-creation, secondary creation.
The preferred element of children’s clothing design Girls prefers design elements such as butterflies, princess bubble skirts, etc. Boys are dinosaurs, space robots, and so on of course with the development of the times, pay more attention to gender-neutral style.
Four, suggestions for learning illustration from scratch:
(1) Master basic software and professional knowledge
(2) Accumulate aesthetics and analyze more excellent business works to learn to balance art and business.
(3) Create your style and make your work differentiated and recognizable.
(4) Love illustration, have a childlike heart
(1) Design site: Station Cool, Gutian Road, Lofter, Pinterest, etc.
(2) go to an art exhibition, fabric exhibition, broaden the horizon, find the beauty of life.
(3) Participate in or observe design competitions, pay attention to well-known designers.
Fashion is a mystery? What is the disturbing fashion world talking about? What does a brand rely on to capture the consumers’ hearts?
What is the beauty of fashion?
1. Do you want to buy “clothing” or “fashion”?
Audience ZhangNan： I think fashion can be a work of art, but also can be a general item, which is not contradictory.
Audience Wang Xin Zhi： Designers put flat textile semi-finished products, slowly step by step into clothing works of art.
Audience Carrier： They have boundaries in my heart. Fashion and fashion are a combination of art and business, but they can also be pure art.
LengYun： Have you ever known about consumer perspectives? Do they think there is a difference between “clothing” and “fashion”? What’s the difference? Or do you think the two can be confused? Academically, the definitions of the two are also controversial. But on the whole, most scholars agree with the meaning of fashion add-on clothing “symbol”, that is, ordinary people say “spiritual” meaning. Clothing more represents the “material” level. But not everyone agrees.
Audience Jessy: I also agree that the spirit of a garment, intangible value than a piece of material is greater.
Moderator: Clothing occasions: schools, workplaces, parties, wedding banquets, vacations, football fields, ethnic, national occasions, etc. Role: office worker, housewife/husband, pregnant woman, etc. I understand that clothing is a person’s identity symbol. In the abstract, clothing is a tool for distinguishing between human attributes. In short, distinguish between social attributes (professional clothing), gender attributes (male/female/child), etc.
Fashion means that “when the collective represented by ‘I’ and ‘we’ appears to be out of step. “Ununity” is the disunity with social requirements, not with tradition, inherent forms, and the public aesthetic is not unified.
For example, Vivienne Westwood, the mother of punk, wore a hole-in-one T-shirt, metal zippers, obscure slogans, and a bra outside her coat. Maison Margiela presents the garment’s consistently hidden interior. “Ununity” is the disunity with social requirements, not with tradition, inherent forms, and the public aesthetic is not unified. For example, in student days, long hair with slippers and pajamas to go shopping.
In other words, fashion in my opinion represents “personality,” “unique,” “unique,” “innovative” and so on.
2. When did the beauty of fashion begin?
Moderator： The beauty referred to here is not “decoration” but “aesthetic”.
LengYun： Is that to trace back to when “fashion” started? What if we all agree that fashion itself represents the spirit? How do you define beauty? As for the origins of fashion, the academic interpretation is different. If we think that fashion has symbolic significance, then there is a difference from feudal society. If you look at history, different classes have different costumes to represent different meanings. This time can also be regarded as “fashion”. In general, HAUTE COUTURE is seen in the industry as the beginning of contemporary fashion. This is to see from the sociology to explore, or fashion clothing itself to talk about or from the origin of the word “fashion”. The definition of fashion here is “fashionable” and “trending”, which began in China with the Tang Dynasty’s Bai Juyi’s “Time Makeup”. “Beauty” generally refers to the spirit of pleasure, which is more colloquially speaking. But at the philosophical level it has many meanings but not in the scope of what we’re talking about today.
Moderator: The so-called aesthetic is the process of perceiving beauty, all the fashion that can produce beauty in people’s psychological situation, so I think the “fashion beauty” produced by the conditions for two: First, fashion-inspired me, meaning to fit my time, cultural background, and even “I” identity, “I” preferences. Second, I realized the fun of fashion, meaning that I understand the history of fashion, background, and inspiration concept. The beauty of fashion is a kind of chance, the accident behind the understanding of beauty and the unconscious connection of life, these understanding and connection into sewing thread. This occasional appearance, we also call inspiration.
Audience Wang Xinzhi: Fashion can be divided into diversifications.
How designers create a sense of beauty
1. How did the designer’s inspiration come about?
Designers’ pursuit of beauty comes first and forest. Inspiration is the beginning of all designs. For example, what can you think of flowers?
Audience Nangua: Nature, outdoors, vacations, healing… After the outbreak, I was particularly eager for something to soothe my body and mind. In terms of color, I prefer some of the most uplifting, healthy life colors.
Audience Wang Xinzhi: Nature, outdoor brand positioning (mission, willingness).
Audience Ok： My favorite style of creation lately is to “anthropomorphize” fashion with the inspiration of vintage shoes or paintings. In my favorite style now, I might make a cherry blossom collection and make an improved kimono.
Audience Panda: The color match of the flowers.
Moderator： “Flowers” begins with bloom to withering, then the process of petal shrinkage, followed by shape: gather, shrink, wither… Finally, the color from bright to dim, and even the last silence. Let’s take a look at Alexander McQueen’s “Endangered Flowers” collection.
2. Imagine you are a designer, what theme would you use as your creative theme?
AudienceOk： As far as my brand is concerned, the spring and summer products we are recently developing are a combination of Chinese wind and punk, belonging to the French elegant and stylish light lolita.
Audience Panda: I’ll think about referencing the style of the hairstyle to the design theme of the dress.
Moderator： That’s great! From the theme of hairstyle, I can think of: gradient, cascading, irregular hem.
Audience Wang Xinzhi: Clothing is also a gradient, dyeing fashion style. Organic ecology, grass and wood dyeing is also an important trend in future development.
Audience Nangua: Natural dye dyeing can carry forward traditional crafts, sustainability is also an important point in the future trend.
Moderator： Let me give you an example of how we think about design themes by using the “Light” series themes I used to do:
“Light” → daylight at first glance→ summer is full of sunlight→ the harsh light refracted on the metal.
“Shadow” → floating light skimmed over the → fleeting → mottled light and shadow.
How merchants attract “us” with beauty
1. Do you have any shops that you like best?
Audience Nangua: There is a brand called Ban Xiaoxue. Every time I go shopping, I feel like I’m crossing time and space and forgetting that I’m in the mall.
2. What did the brand capture the heart me?
Create an atmosphere
Moderator： Lights, displays, display racks, carpets, smell and more are all building the brand’s unique atmosphere. Every detail exists to reinforce the concept of the brand.
Audience Panda: More impressive is the DUOZOULU store. The white booths are neatly lined with every pair of shoes as if they were on display, and the shop has a bit of technology.
Audience Nangua: I feel that I am attracted to brands such as Ban Xiaoxue because of the overall atmosphere of my visual enjoyment, as well as its products expressed cultural ideas and innovative spirit. They allow me to fully enjoy the different beauty and produce happiness, and then the beauty of the brand has a desire to continue to pursue exploration.
Moderator： I take Maison Margiela as an example and analyze their brand stores. The furniture in their shop has irregular geometry as if deliberately straying from the shape of the rules. In a physical store, walls and columns connect, but individuals of the building are separated. White walls, if touched by hand, will find that the walls consciously retain the natural texture of the plaster. These designs are echoing their brand’s design language, deconstruction, lining exposed, and so on are used.
Make a story
Moderator： Only brands that tell stories attract people who listen to them. Give a product a story and stimulate the desire to consume. ACNE is a T-shirt, sometimes a T-shirt with family ties, and sometimes a T-shirt for an irregular family.
Audience Nangua: In fact, this brand I will see if he’s single and matching can help my series to sell. There is no more to delve deeper into the meaning.
Moderator： But what I hope is that when we present a single item, we will not only talk about “good fabric”, “color match” and “just the right size”, but will explore it as a philosophy of art.
Create a topic
Audience Panda: It feels like a lot of brands are inviting stars to the catwalk now.
Audience Nangua: There are designer brands, after all, traffic first.
Moderator： For example, the unsuccessful Burberry and “King Glory” to launch online game skin, is a cross-border collab. When we talk around a product, in addition to the product itself, there is its “gossip”, these are the brand to “create” the topic.
Audience Nangua: Now there is some virtual net red, young people also like.
Is fashion the art of the masses, or the entertainment of the niche?
Moderator： Fashion is designed for the marginalized to get the satisfaction of the masses, but often the two can not be both.
Audience OK: It is a niche, the public for the time being still can appreciate identity, not enough spending power.
Moderator： There are still some historical cultural and economic limitations.
Audience Nangua: I belong to the mass majority, after all, I am the fast fashion business design practitioner, especially the minority things may not all I am interested in. To be honest, some niche brands may just think that in his field, he’s expressing his ideas and ideas very well. Each personal experience and state are different, for me, for the niche brand I can only appreciate, and can only stop here, and there is no expectation of further exploration, so let alone go up to spend.
First, do not understand the fashion
1. Buy clothes or fashion Clothing is a tool that distinguishes between human attributes. In short, distinguish between social attributes (professional clothing) and ethical attributes (male/female/child). (1) Vivienne Westwood, the mother of punk, wore a hole-in-one T-shirt, metal zippers, obscure slogans, and a bra outside her coat.
(2) Maison Margiela’s always-hidden interior craftsmanship is presented. Clothing is the unity of spirit and materiality.
2. When did fashion beauty begin? The beauty referred to here is not “decoration” but “aesthetic”. The so-called aesthetic is the process of perceiving beauty, all the fashion that can produce beauty often corresponds to the psychological situation, so I think there are two conditions for “fashion beauty”: (1) Fashion inspired me; (2) I realized the fun of fashion.
Second, the design team’s day-to-day management designer is thinking
1. How inspiration comes about Inspiration is the beginning of all designs, take flowers as an example.
2. Imagine what you will create for the subject matter Light and Shadow.
Third, design planning “what” “we” purchase
1. Is there any favorite one to visit? Acne Studios, Gucci, Balenciaga, JNBY, icicle.
2. What did the brand capture my heart? (1) make a topic; (2) make a story; (3) create an atmosphere.
Fourth, open discussion
Is fashion the art of the masses, or is it the entertainment of the niche? Fashion is designed for the marginalized to get the satisfaction of the masses, but often the two can not be both.
Design assistants and designers are mostly working towards design management. So, what is the difference between design management and designers?
Topic: The difference between the functions of the design director and the designer
Participant – LengYun Fashion Group #1
Time – 2021-06-08
Moderator: Mengmeng – Guangzhou – Director of Women’s Design – Has served the garment industry for more than 11 years, from recent graduation to 30 plus, from design assistant to design director. From 10 years ago the popular aesthetic to the current popular minority, light literary style. From women’s brand research and development to women’s brand group mode. From sentimental design to market data combined with group goods, continue to cultivate in women’s clothing.
Jane Di – Shanghai – Group 1 Moderator – I am Jane Di, Deputy Head of the Leng Yun Fashion Group, responsible for the day-to-day operations and event operations of the community. Has been engaged in marketing work, because the family is engaged in the garment industry, clothing is a great interest of mine, so I joined the LengYun Fashion Group.
What does a designer do daily?
1. Designer’s expertise and skills
Guangzhou is the capital of women’s wear, many designers dream of starting a place, including me. I would like to ask you first what you think of the costume designer.
When I was a child, I dreamed of being a women’s fashion designer when I saw Skybridge. They have their understanding of beauty, their persistence.
First, the fabric must be familiar, will draw, understand the trend.
The design director needs management guidance to lead the team of designers.
Audience Jane Di：
My designers need to understand everyone’s dress needs, solve the pain point of everyone’s clothing, and add their understanding of clothing in the design.
I think designers must have a certain understanding of layout, craft, but do not need to go too deep. Costume designer drawings are a must-have skill, but you do not need to paint them to look particularly good and be clear. More important is the understanding and reaction of the market.
designs may not be possible without considering the ergonomics of typography and clothing. Designers must understand the version, to better communicate with the moderators, so that their designs better landing.
I worked as a designer for 8 years, then switched to buyers, and then became a design director. Just looked at everyone’s feelings about designers: drawing, beauty, craft, understanding of accessories, we all speak comprehensively. But the importance of the garment pattern is easily ignored by the designers. There are many kinds of job breakdowns for designers, but they are roughly the same as we all say. A layout-savvy designer with a publishing success rate of more than 80%.
I have been a professional designer for 8 years, which will meet a variety of moderators, it is impossible that the moderators have not changed. So, we must grasp the layout to a more perfect presentation of ready-to-wear. Are most of our designers specializing in researching styles? Assistants look for pictures, find styles, designers’ drawings are loops. The aesthetic of magazines and websites will improve quickly.
Yes, the moderator has no understanding of aesthetics, we need to look at the paper version when we communicate well. In what ways are you all looking for pictures? Look at the picture above on the pop website or microblogging and other channels?
INS，Small Red Book，Trending Websites。
How to cultivate aesthetics?
One is to look for pictures to see the money.
How many pictures do you think designers look at a day? I want designers to pass more than 80 pictures per person per day. Have you found that hot spots, POP, butterfly Xun their content are the same? Many are from foreign websites to move down the content, and WGSN still has disputed. Our path to originality is still a long way off.
The second is to match the picture. A lot of designers look at it, are we paying attention to the matching inspiration? Now a lot of bloggers really can match styles. Seeing more of this is a great help to beauty.
They just sort the show, but it’s also good to search for niche brands. The advantage of WGSN is that I think they have their original pattern gallery. We pay is to require a complete set-out, increase the joint sales. Especially the original I used to do; the original design is relatively difficult to match. If we design when the design is well designed to match, it is more convenient for the audience.
In the use of face accessories, we feel that girls and Chinese women are equipped with materials difference? I was the first to do Taiwan women’s wear in China, what do you think about Taiwan women’s wear in China? Teenage girls pretend to be a fairy, linen will be less used. They do more women’s clothing, in addition to the layout of fine, most of the material will be thick. Why do you think that is why?
I think the girl dress on the texture requirements are not high, mainly cotton, cotton hemp, human silk, polyester, and so on. My previous company was made at this age, and they especially liked satin, yarn, acetic acid, and other relatively good textured fabrics.
Day-to-day management of the design team
Management of subordinate designers
Audience Jane Di：
It seems that Moderator has experienced in many different types of companies and knows women’s wear at different ages, so is it through this experience that he has grown into the current director? How does Moderator typically manage your team?
In addition to basic design work, design management also involves looking for drawings, looking for styles, profiles, details, accessories, colors, and so on. In management, I’ll ask my designers to sort. Designers do a lot of work every day, so I’ll also guide them to hand over some of their work to assistants.
Start inside the team, starting with looking for diagrams, with assistants looking for diagrams extensively. Designers divide by band (refer to the dimensions above) Many companies let assistants do civilian and procurement work, don’t they?
My buyer’s assistant started with a street shooting, went to the market to get goods and things like that.
assistant mobility is big, one of the reasons is that the work is too broken, a lot of chores. To stabilize the personnel, I have also been looking for ways to start trying to assign the assistant some pictures to cultivate aesthetic, so that the assistant has progressed, there is hope. I’ve heard a lot of bosses say designers are proud and can’t design. I said, “That’s something you won’t manage.” “The designer’s mobility is great and it’s a loss for me. So, I also have asked designers to think about how to arrange assistant work.
How can the design department’s large turnover of personnel be measured? Take our company as an example, 8 designers, about 3 to 4 per year. At first, it was a bit of a flurry to face this situation, and then I thought it was a team-building trial and error process.
Audience Tan ：
I think designers and company styles need to be honed. If you do not give time to run, designers have been flowing, it is difficult to ensure the quality of the company.
What is the emphasis of everyone’s run-in? I think the focus of the run-in is on the director. If the order rate is too low, then the resources are too wasteful. So, to increase the order rate is the first, if there is progress every month. Back to
Audience Jane Di：
I think the point of the run-in is the match between the designer’s style and brand style, as well as the company’s working model, and the company’s management model. Our team has been iterative, with only about six schools locked in for new students, and other schools that we do not know about are not hiring.
80 sketches per person per day? The workload is big enough. Is this efficient?
Because of the assistants’ help, I give the designer no set rules, but 3 days must pass once the map. I would ask designers to learn to divide diagrams. This process is more important than the following diagram, over the map, the sub-plot will let the new person quickly into the state.
If the leader has no direction, completely to self-like orders, will lead to partial and narrow styles. For example, our boss has a special love for cowboys, but the cowboy order rate is very low.
My boss also has a preference, but I will rationally control, according to the season, sales rate, put some inappropriate out not to place orders. The company designer said I was too rational. Do you have any management of designer classification?
Web designers have creative and marketable categories. Look at the designer’s ability to assign tasks in different directions.
Horizontal department management
So, I rationally want the team composition to be young designers and mature designers, rational and emotional have.
Just finished dream team management, and then share the horizontal department management, in fact, if it is not our design department, all departments will have different views. When you disagree, know that quarrels can’t solve the problem. Have you heard about up management?
Use your boss as a resource for you to accomplish your task.
I summed up the essence: improve the status of the design department. The boss can’t train the design department in public again. Respect the product, recognize the product, before the performance. The position of the design department has been raised so that the problem of horizontal department quarrel is solved.
Yes, one reason I left the last company was that the design department was in a very low position and the departments did not work together. This is inefficient, all pots are designed to be back.
Design and planning
When we are looking for popular information, color, fabric, profile, and so on how do we all do?
Previously worked for a company that does not do quarterly planning but does a series of landing planning.
Our designers will do the opening season of small business planning.
Small business planning, large planning, refers to the whole market and part?
I will plan the general direction of communication with designers so that designers have the direction to do their series of small plans. Every time you do the planning, you can also see the designer’s shortboard, is the picture sense is too poor. Simply put (1) P-map software is not familiar; Series is to each designer’s style direction, designers on the trade-off or more rational, I will use the series to frame the direction of the designer to do the planning. Like color planning, fabric planning, will we rely more on feeling?
I do it according to the style I want to do, and our big plans will frame the popular colors that I’m in charge of the brand.
Now the information on the trend website is more comprehensive, do not frame on the runaway. When doing elegant feminine style, I will let designer fabrics plan to use more women’s fabrics, such as light-sensitive, printing materials. Instead, I’ll tell the leisure group to use less light.
What fabrics are more suitable for casual?
What brand do you think represents casual?
I also like CELINE for these two seasons. When it comes to leisure, I will tell the designer to use a little more profile when planning. Communication is important, divided according to each person’s strengths. Because we serve the group goods brand, so I will share my plans to be a supplier. Guide suppliers to let them follow my plan to develop, the planning rate is higher.
My previous company is to do landing planning, the designer’s photoshop requirements are relatively high, but the follow-up development is very convenient.
Everyone is different, for large-scale planning. I am for the company, and the outside will have a sense of screen requirements. In addition to color, the sidebar is the best display effect. I’ll ask the designer to do the sidebar with photoshop.
Overall, growing from designer to design director is mainly in top-level design (design planning), team management, and project management (on time, on time, on quality, and at a price to complete product development tasks.
In the process, it’s more difficult for the new director to get the team to complete the task. It’s easy to take responsibility for yourself, and it’s harder to take responsibility for the team (others).
First, how I grew from a designer to a design director
Designer’s professional knowledge skills: including but are not limited to enhance aesthetics, understanding layout, series planning, the use of face accessories, color application, rational thinking, and so on.
Courage: Courage for a job promotion.
Second, the design team’s day-to-day management
Management of the designer team: give the assistant hope: improve their aesthetic ability; give the design direction: have the direction, have the framework and the goal.
2. Horizontal cross-sectoral communication, including room, merchandise, marketing, etc. Improve the position of the design department: upward management, so that the boss identifies with the designer,
Third, design planning
Too much fashion information, how to choose by series to do different fabrics, color planning.
how to make good use of the advantages of the design team and the combination of external resources.
Share your plans and get more professionals involved and listen to opinions, but don’t be blind.
Design planning for the terminal presentation.
Determine the color of the big tone, sidebar category rendering, including category, fabric, etc.
With the rise of China’s national wealth and the increasing strength of Chinese designers, Chinese designers have gradually occupied a place in the international community. This time, I’m going to share with you what I’ve seen about Chinese designers and how merchandise planning can help brands.
Topic – How merchandise planning works in designer brand
Moderator –Li Hao – Independent Brand Manager – Build from 0 to 1 a branded goods system, responsible for coordinating with 12 countries and regions, 35 top buyers, and boutique department stores during Paris Fashion Week order sales and customer communication. He left PHAEDO at the end of 2019 and is currently working on his clothing brand.
Yanni – BEIJING – Buyer – Clothing design and management major graduate students, an undergraduate in English major, has passed level 4 and level 8 English certificate, and business English certificate and other qualifications. During school time, participated in the National Costume Translation Program, worked as a sales assistant for BLACKMARKET-WHITEHOUSE, a women’s clothing product in Atlantic City, New Jersey, USA, and received a letter of recommendation from the General Manager. Worked as a buyer intern for the J.LINDBERG brand of BESTSELLER Group.
Changes In the Clothing Market Environment
1. The Development of The International Garment Industry
Because I have always been working for a designer brand, so my views are more from the brand. I will talk a little bit about the industry, but it is brand oriented.
You can look at this diagram, this is when we were doing The PHEDO brand in the early days, to explain to investors the value of our brand. I have removed some information about specific brands, and the contents I’ve kept can be used for illustration. I sent this picture is mainly to express the context of the development of clothing abroad, and to explain why the entire foreign clothing system formed the current situation.
Audience Queeni Wang：
As long as there is conflict, will there be influential clothing brands born?
It is fair to say that my understanding is that it is possible to produce representative clothing brands when there is a strong conflict with the times. Those with an era background, catching people’s eye with some memorable points and influential people or brands can survive to become super brands. We think this is an extremely complex, lively, and information-overloaded Internet era.
Audience Queeni Wang：
I feel like the era of the fad of the country, the era of Chinese power.
You could say so. My girlfriend and I later left PHAEDO, in fact, also made some summary of this. In a way, PHAEDO fits the Chinese element and reaps the dividends of China’s overall national strength and rising national self-confidence.
What internet elements are used in your brand building?
One is to follow the times and use Internet tools well; the other is to be extremely far away, but because you’re so far away, it’s something that some people want to know, and of course, it’s based on what you’re doing well. PHAEDO chose the path of conflict with the times, that is, away from the Internet, but be yourself, and then spread by those affected.
Is this style original by Chinese designers? Or follow a genre abroad?
It’s original by Chinese designers because if you want to stand in Paris, you can’t go on without your characteristics. For example, there was a company in Shenzhen, when to talk to the showroom, the other side directly said, “you and some brand is very similar, why should I do your brand?” “Because one of the London designers the company invested in was that style.
But the same with plant dyeing, tea dyeing cloth using Chinese elements of the brand PengTai and UMA WANG have. Why do you say it’s original? What is your ingenuity?
For example, PHAEDO is good at persimmon dyeing this process, it can be said that the domestic imitation of this style can not duplicate the effect of PHAEDO. That is because the brand has been exploring the persimmon dyeing piece for a long time, when people saw PHAEDO, they said they had found something new. And it’s in Paris, a market with a laser-sharp eye for fashion.
PHAEDO’s clothes also feel as thin as wings.
2. Europe and the United States market at present the overall status quo
After PHAEDO I jump back to my subject. Europe and the United States in the development of this clothing can be said to be no-fault, they are customized by ancient homemade and tailors, and then go through the era of haute couture, and finally towards ready-to-wear. In the process, they built a pyramidal structure.
Recently happened to be watching “Fashion Smoke Cloud”, about how Paris Haute Couture appeared. At that time, just after the end of World War II, American Apparel developed rapidly, Paris wanted to maintain its status as the original fashion capital, the Paris government to work with designers to produce some new ideas. That is when street photography started booming and there was a catwalk.
And because Europe worships genius, the most iconic figure at the beginning of the Haute Couture era is Paul Poiret. From the beginning of his time as a designer like a star and continue to modern. From the brand and how the rise of designers, the entire European and American clothing system is a pyramid system. We always say that Europe has a lot of unique, fashion-leading buyers, in fact, these in my understanding, are the bottom of this pyramid system, like the foundation. So why doesn’t Europe regularly have designers called names come out, and it has something to do with this foundation.
This is the nature of our roadside street shops, just because Europe is richer and socially stratified. Then there is a group of discerning people, specializing in things like designer brands. And it was a good business at the time, and society’s understanding of the garment industry was not the same as China’s. Europe and the United States will often be clothing designers to artists, representing the symbols of social culture.
Audience Queeni Wang：
When can China start respecting artists like this?
At present, I think there is already this trend. But because China is too big, the overall consciousness is difficult to improve all at once or needs social development to become more prosperous.
There are already a small number of designers moving in this direction, but the premise is that the brands need to survive, have profit, to raise the artistic level. Designer brands are still more dependent on fashion buyers, and fashion buyers are dependent on customers. Buyers tend to choose brands with good sales, so designer brands want to go high-end, art is difficult to survive. Many brands that start as high-starting brands are because they are rich in themselves.
A scale-like PHAEDO’s has to do with the initial brand’s well-funded investors, and it can’t be profitable at all until 2019.
It is difficult to improve overall awareness in the short term, but I believe it will get better and better.
Peace Bird, for example, has given some designer brand platforms, so that the mass ready-to-wear market will slowly accept the aesthetic of these designers.
I go back to my theme, and these buyers correspond to the brands of various clothing designers. Because European and American societies are what we’re going through in China right now, and they’ve been through it. Their social volume is quite serious, but Europe and the United States are more lying flat young people. I’ve discussed with friends how many brands came to Paris during Paris Fashion Week. Brands that do not have a certain level or local advantage are equally difficult to produce in Europe and the United States. If the buyer shop and designer brand as the foundation, then the next level is some of the development is relatively smooth brands, can also be understood as brand companies. These brand companies can be said to stand out in the European and American environment competition, and in the capital, management, talent is dominant.
Is there a lot of involutions in society and lying down on young people? All kinds of fashion history listed only a few classics, change the course of the history of designers a lot of real clothing brand status is not much involved.
The inner volume requires you to have a high level of professionalism to stand out from the crowd. Because people all over the world who demand clothes have gone to Paris, and people with their ambitions have gone to Paris. Do you know how many luxuries in the world were bought by the Japanese when Yamamoto and Yukio Kawamoto appeared in Japan? I remember I should have looked at about half of the data. And now China is similar.
Yes, so Japan’s ventage market is now good and a legacy of buying a lot of luxury goods.
During the middle east oil boom of the 1960s and 1970s, Indians bought more luxury goods.
But neither the Middle East nor India had famous design gurus, perhaps because they were only partially rich, but Japan has a large rich population. And no one inside has interpreted their culture to the world, affecting the rest of the world. Therefore, it is still necessary for the whole people to be rich, to raise their consciousness, and finally, the nation is confident to better recognize themselves and interpret themselves.
So, what is the overall picture of Europe?
At the top, there are boutique department stores and luxury groups. The overall situation is not good at the moment those Italian brands are close to collapse. Then good brands before the outbreak were bought by luxury groups like LVMH, so the whole of Europe is actually in very bad shape. European brands are not the same as China, where there may be dozens of stores where brands are small. But many European brands have been growing for decades and may only have single-digit stores. So, they’re bad at the cash flow.
This is not a kind of their culture, that kind of family small workshop-style, inherited form of the spread of the brand.
Not only because of this but because it does have something to do with their culture, most of Europe’s management capabilities are poor except for big companies and luxury groups.
3. The Development Of The Domestic Garment Industry
Speaking of domestic, China’s clothing from the brand point of view, the development is directly from the brand and is a large-scale joining the direct start, from the beginning is very large-scale. We found that in the past ten years, the number of shop assistants gradually increased, in some ways is to make up lessons, building the foundation.
Previously, school teachers have shared our domestic clothing from the 1980s.
After the reform and development, most of them are made for processing, wholesale, and so on.
(2) The current overall structure
Is it important to be aware of and focus on brand culture and values at home?
No, because the brand has developed to a certain stage where people do not know how to go, and then people start exploring new businesses. And many people studying abroad has returned, and these people have brought a lot of new things.
Audience Queeni Wang：
I feel part of the reason is that a group of designers studying abroad have returned home and started designer brands. People are not short of money, do their favorite tune, and then pull up the unit price. These brands do high value-added things and increase the premium space to the target of foreign luxury goods. There are domestic rich people, like to buy luxury goods, now not convenient to go abroad to buy, but the consumption power is still there, so we need some new niche brands to make up.
Yes, most people who buy a shop in the first half don’t make money. Many of these people are rich second generation, for the buyer shop in the final analysis as a business, there is no good understanding, many are interest-oriented. But there are a lot of people coming into the shop, and there are still a lot of people doing very well, and it’s an evolutionary process. But I don’t recommend starting as a brand, either you have money, resources, and relationships, or backgrounds.
Many brands starting with the mass-market brand did not go on well after they started independent brands. There may also be many factors, there is a long way to go.
There is some brand starting with 2 and more people in partnership, one person responsible for the design, one person responsible for the market, both bringing with resources.
Audience Queeni Wang：
Vision, marketing is very important.
Big companies have problems with the way they operate, niches have niches problems, but many people start a niche design brand directly following their existing system. And they don’t understand what they’re doing with a new brand.
Audience Queeni Wang：
How do you do this? How exactly?
I think it’s mainly for the purpose. A big company starting with a brand has a strong business purpose. Or they think not, but finance and their development plans will tell them what to do with their new brand. These are all commercial brand routes. And niche brands first and foremost to establish their design language system. Domestic is currently a complimentary foundation process, so now there are many domestic brands out, and independent designers are relatively better than the previous road, but still very difficult. Because it takes a lot of effort and time for the niche to be understood by the public.
Sales are above design, and it’s impossible to be creative.
think it is time to slowly turn a part of the “mass” into a “minority” crowd.
DESIGNER BRAND CASE
(1) The key node of UMA WANG development
Let me start with what I think of her, UMAWANG, a group of designers who are much like the Chinese designers who set foot on the international stage. A bit like the first Japanese designers to dabble in international, Kenzo Takata, was the first to open the way to the international market. Why the study of UMAWANG at that time, is because PHDUEO in the brand height of positioning and she is consistent, so in the early stages of development to do a lot of research on her.
There is a lot of homework behind a brand’s success.
I had seen Uma speak at a table before, and she moved her production to a small town in Italy, where people were all dressed in black because of a brand in town.
That is the story, actually because it’s cheaper, and the quality is guaranteed, and there’s delivery date. International spring and summer basic delivery time everyone agreed to be January-March, and then spring and summer Paris Fashion Week is the end of September and the beginning of October. It takes a long time for a buyer to give an order, and it’s not until mid-November that the order is fully closed. If you want to deliver in January, your production cycle is particularly short, international logistics a week is at least. And now we have a characteristic, is to put the delivery time non-stop to the premise. For example, the end of May and the beginning of June in China has already begun to wear autumn clothes.
Speaking back to UMA WANG, in 2015 UMA WANG said that she has 10,000 pieces of production in a quarter if according to the PHAJEO repayment situation analogy, her quarterly return is about 30-40 million yuan, the overall size of a year is about 60-80 million yuan. But I’m not sure how her earnings are they don’t make much money in Europe, the average unit price is about 8000-9000 yuan, but it may not have a high unit price of PHAEDO.
How convenient are PHAEDO’s starting order and discount?
10,000 euros, it’s not convenient to say. But I can tell you that the pricing advice given to us by Showroom in Paris is 2.6 times the cost of the showroom commission, which is the buyer’s price. But PHAEDO did not follow this standard. PHAEDO’s bosses come out of big companies, which are not light in structure, are particularly expensive, and love to do projects that don’t make money.
What about the buyer’s purchase price, which is generally several times that of this base?
According to this proposal, the average cost of a single piece of UMA WANG is 1000 yuan.
People don’t necessarily set the price according to this standard. I once counted a skirt from UMA WANG, the fabric because OF PHADEO also bought, the fabric is about 200 meters. Then a skirt is estimated to be about 3 meters, and then add the workmanship of about 1000 yuan there is. But according to my concept, such a cost her skirt should not sell for more than 6000 yuan. But UMAWANG has a particularly good relationship with her fabric maker, which may give a different price and a very poor price.
Now the retail price of independent designer brands in China is generally 6-10 times the cost.
(1) The basic background of the brand
SHUSHUTONG was founded by LEI LISHU and JIANG YUXUAN. Her showroom abroad is NOSEASONhowroom. They’ve won some awards in the early days, which has helped them get off to a good start. And at that time, the domestic buyer’s shop is the rapid development of the time, so it has promoted the development.
Domestic well-known buyers LeiHu has to help them do online shop operations.
It should be said that LeiHu has their shares, so will have great help to them in this regard, there is no close interest will not do so.
(2) Current developments
In the season after the outbreak ended, 2021SS, they placed orders at about $40 million. This is what a friend told me, basically double the number before the outbreak.
(1) The basic background of the brand
She graduated from Anderwerp and was the best graduate of the year.
It was her first season of clothes, and it was recognized from this season, that was brought to market. My friend had a collection of her show clothes, and I tried them on. Her clothes are characterized by various patterned embroidery and high saturation colors. But one problem is that she doesn’t sell very well. She asked our team members for advice and answered that the existing style was too strong, but that was not a weakness. A new brand should be like this, but she doesn’t have a commercial balance. Her dress design language is so strong that she just needs to take some elements out of her design language and make some basic pieces with her brand identity.
So, this time you need to plan for goods.
Audience Queeni Wang：
Do you need 20% of the window to be labeled? 80% is the market popularity of ground gas to do a good balance?
This is late, if it is a designer brand, at first its personality label I suggest is more than 60%, strong and enthusiastic. Because there’s so much to see in this market, it’s hard to notice that your design language is too convergent. And this era everyone is a visual animal, later slowly do some commercial balance. Brand this piece I’ll simply say this.
Simple Merchandise planning
1. What is merchandise planning and why should I do merchandise planning?
The scope of merchandise planning is particularly broad, I understand it as product planning and merchandise planning, which is the combination of these two parts. To achieve the right time, the right place, with the right goods, control the right costs, sell at the right price, and put into production the right quantity, to obtain the right profit. And merchandise planning in different types of enterprises, the content of the reference also has differences, such as business-oriented companies, will be more in line with the concept of complete merchandise planning.
What is the main work content of the designer brand’s merchandise planning? Designer brands may start creative and have low operating profits. What is the role of merchandise planning at this time?
They will plan the product structure based on historical data. In summing up the sales data of previous years combined, refer to the future popularity, do multi-dimensional planning. Here, designers are more of a tool. (Note: Business-oriented commodity planning)
Designers rarely take these into account when they are just starting, which can create a problem, and your design is cost-effective.
Do you think designer brands must focus on merchandise planning at the beginning?
It’s necessary, it depends on how you plan for goods. Just said that commercial brands are designers as tools, that designer brand is mainly designers, then merchandise planning in such a company is a supporting role.
2. How the Designer Brand’s Merchandise Planning Works
How exactly does the auxiliary role work?
For example, designer brand merchandise planning will not be so complete at first, we will be based on the season, sales targets, planning your season of the number of goods in various categories. Then plan the price structure of different categories of goods, so that merchandise planning is only a small part of the work of commodity planning. Why do these two first, we are based on this, can start discussions with designers.
Is it choosing from the designer styles to put into the market, and the only difference is there are more styles?
No. Two points are to tell the designer how many products to develop this season, and then the price structure of the goods, the designer should choose how much fabric. For example, dress category 1280-1880-2880-3680. How many products at each price, if we want to obtain reasonable profits, then it is clear to choose the fabrics for different product pricing, and your process will also have certain requirements. After these two parts, the next step is to discuss with the designer. What designers want to do is the relationship between each category. Such merchandise planning does not interfere too much with the designer’s design.
In this way, it seems that the requirements for merchandise planning staff are quite comprehensive.
This coincides with the work of most commodity planning. Can Moderator highlight any obvious differences in product planning between designer brands and other brands? What is the specific aspect of dominance?
There is a dominant problem here. There are a lot of business-oriented brands, the goods will plan your dress with what fabric, how long, what the profile is like, designers are just an implementation tool. And the independent designer’s merchandise planning is to help the designer to organize the process.
In this case, the designer himself has little room to play.
Because many designers have no concept when designing. MS.MIN, for example, doesn’t have many concepts about cost, and they don’t have a cap on increased costs.
Audience Sir Han:
Who is the focus of planning and designers if they collide?
Compromise with each other. Designer brands will still be mainly designers. First, you have to understand why the designer is doing this and what she thinks.
Is the operator industry in the designer brand most of the time also a designer?
Audience Mr. Lu：
Designer brands are generally designers at the beginning of their design and planning responsibilities, right? Or have good investors, like Lei Hu or Tricolor, who not only give money but also advise on how to run it.
But the product planning for designer brands will not have such a strong collision. Because in the process of organizing, you are helping the designer to add the bonus. So, need to understand their ideas, if used wisely, these ideas will increase the interests of the brand.
First, Chinese designers in the international1. The development course of the international and domestic garment industry
Europe and the United States in the development of this clothing is no fault, they are customized by ancient homemade and tailoring, and then go through the era of a high order, and finally towards ready-to-wear. A pyramid system has been formed:
Foundation – the lowest-level buyer’s shop and designer brand (the foundation of the entire European fashion system)
Middle level – brand companies (well-known designer brands, with a certain scale of brand companies)
Top – Luxury goods, boutique buyer’s department stores (big capital)
(1) UMA WANG: UMA WANG’s global production in the first quarter of 2015 was around 10,000 pieces, with an estimated annual return of 60-80 million.
(2) SHUSHU TONG: Lei Lishu and Jiang YuXuan two people set up, the foreign showroom is NOSEASONShowroom, the domestic development with the help of LeiHu, rapid development. 40 million in the first quarter of 2021SS.
(3) QIUSHU TING: The first season will be released in 2018. Clothes are characterized by various patterns of embroidery and high saturation colors. The 2021SS quarter has doubled in size.
Second, how to play a role in the designer brand
What is merchandise planning and why should I do merchandise planning?
merchandise Planning: This can be understood as a combination of product planning and merchandise planning. Why do merchandise planning: to achieve the right time, the right place, with the right goods, the right costs, with the right price to sell, and put into the right quantity, to obtain the right profit.
2. How the designer brand’s merchandise planning works
Commercial brand merchandise planning will plan what fabric you use in your dress, how long, what the profile is like, designers are just a way to achieve it. Designer brand merchandise planning is to help designers to do the process of organizing.
“The fashion collision between digital and art will bring about great changes in the garment industry. We set foot on a high-speed 3D digital technology ship, heading for a new fashion with infinite possibilities.”
Participants: LengYun Fashion Group #3
Moderator – Wayne – Hangzhou – 3D- Engaged in clothing for more than a decade, has served many well-known brands, is now engaged in clothing 3D digital. Knowing the traditional status quo of the garment industry, we believe that 3D digital technology can bring innovation optimization and transformation to the garment industry.
Baize – Ningbo – Second reporter: graduated from clothing design and engineer. In 2019, worked as an assistant garment pattern maker. In mid-2020, after the company introduced 3D modeling software, now full-time work in clothing 3D modeling. Hope that the garment industry will achieve digitalization.
Changes in the clothing market environment
1. Changes in the external environment
As you should all know, the outbreak since last year has changed some of our current ways and methods of working. And because of the outbreak, many times there is no way to communicate offline, thus deriving the form of communication through virtual means. And clothing is a more complex carrier. If mail after the physical production, and wait for a reply, this mode of communication is slower. Because some of the major international fashion industry brands are abroad, many Chinese suppliers in the foreign trade industry will be particularly impacted. So now many foreign trade enterprises are also in transition.
2. Changes in the internal environment
If you take a look at some data, you can see that the impact of COVID, whether it is e-commerce live or some online tools has a very large increase in the number of users. Take DindDing a lot of companies and schools are now in use, in this outbreak it indeed accesses to a very large number of users. And based on the current situation, most of the communication and communication methods have changed from offline to online. So now some cross-border e-commerce and live broadcast are very hot.
DingDing is not only a tool also a work network, behind the enterprise’s organizational design, performance management, employment ecology. I have always felt that 3D design is a tool, is the experience and efficiency of technological progress, and the fashion industry’s digital transformation is still different.
I think 3D design is a part of the digital upgrading of the fashion industry.
In fact, DingDing are also designed as a tool, starting from the tool of 3D as a foundation. From this foundation, you can derive and develop some more digital content. If 3D design is anything to go by, it’s really just a tool. But if we apply 3D technology to the entire garment industry chain, it’s completely different. I’ll also show you later how to use 3D content to derive more content and areas.
Clothing exploration of 3D technology
1. Clothing 3D technology debut
3D technology is still in the popular period, many enterprises are just getting started, their expectations of 3D are very direct because it can directly reduce the number of samples. But in fact, there can be more 3D scenarios. I know that Winner Fashion has been using 3D for personalization in conjunction with its self-developed APP. Although this is also reducing the number of patterns, but also small progress. It is said that the winner plans to push out 3D this year but does not know the specific form, you can pay attention to. I know that the winner in digital research and development, specifically set up to win the Wisdom.
I feel that 3D can better improve internal synergy efficiency, reduce costs, help designers, product managers, merchandise planning more efficiently co-work. Winners’ groups are bold enough to try, and supply chain capabilities are strong in themselves.
At present, the 3D tool may only be used on how to make 3D clothing this matter. In fact, in different environments, it has different application scenarios for brands, ODM, or fabric manufacturers. We’re mainly talking about clothing 3D and clothing 3D tools, from which there are currently four in the world. This is also the physics algorithm I’m talking about for flexible simulation. If it’s rigid, it’s a lot more.
Although I was a guest with the Winner chairman one time and didn’t see his supply chain. But the 74-year-old businessman has done so much admirably.
What we are seeing is based on digital and cloud technology background, the Internet and the Internet of Things fusion in the industry software side of the application value mining, do not know whether it is accurate.
I have also seen the Winner Chairman at an exhibition before, an excellent leader. Our division also had the honor to visit the whole winner smart manufacturing part. Because these years the country has been vigorously promoting intelligent manufacturing, so some head industry has used such methods to carry out factory production improvements, some optimization, and upgrading. Do you know why digitalization is being promoted? What was it before digitization? Before digitization was data,, we are now in the data and digitalization era.
How do we tell the difference between modeling or real 3D clothing software for a business?
Modeling is rigid, which means passing through some other 3D tools. Software such as Maya, 3DMax, does some appearance, but not flexible physical simulation.
The clothing industry suppliers to get cooperation, the cost compression is a bit strong. Domestic labor is not cheap, many companies have built factories in Southeast Asia.
This is one reason, and another reason is because of some international preferential policies to build factories in Southeast Asia. Before I had a factory in Vietnam, where the goods went to Europe and the United States were tariff-free. At present, the whole Of Vietnam’S Garment Manufacturing Industry Capacity Is relatively good, ranked as first In Southeast Asia. Flexible modeling is a technique that uses simulation and algorithms to calculate the physical properties of fabrics to present a look, so the technique of flexible simulation is still a very difficult one.
Before producing goods, you will feel that looking at sketch and sample will be relatively different. I don’t know if 3D can help solve this problem.
What do you think of this picture?
A lot of times we look at the model will also ask a special model to look at the upper body, slim fit and regular fit from the graph is very difficult to see the difference. The picture above is indeed like a tiled diagram of a real product.
All clothing is based on the plate, and the layout is based on the mannequin, that is, the model’s body shape to make. So we’ll have virtual models to try on clothes, and this time we’ll know if it’s tight or normal
2. Style3D development and service content
As a result of the outbreak, many of the markets are also changing. In 2019, when I went to the Shanghai fair and Canton Fair, many domestic brands or companies’ understanding of 3D was not particularly profound, but only a very curious stage.
The outbreak has accelerated the spread of technology.
Now is also, many enterprises’ understanding of clothing 3D technology is unclear.
But from 2019 to this year, there are a lot of companies working with us, and their awareness is more profound. At present, the whole flexible simulation of 3D clothing modeling software, in China we are the first tier company. So we are also using our actions to popularize 3D applications. At present, the country put forward the “internal and external double-cycle” strategic approach, so the direction of digitalization has been a basic content.
Now common 3D clothing software, what are the similarities and weaknesses or strengths?
At present, the most widely recognized in China should be from South Korea’s CLO. They developed relatively early, and for nearly a decade. This software is based on Marvel Designer. MD is software designed for game making. Because of the flexibility of fabrics, physical simulation is a very technical field, so they put CLO dedicated to independent, clothing design and development. They should be arguably the first software to use 3D clothing modelers in China. At present, CLO is relatively stable, there are some more complex operations. They took about a decade to release, is now the sixth version, the overall update is relatively slow. For the operator, overall learning costs are relatively high. The whole use of the scene and way is mainly from some of the major brands abroad. Today it is a tool-based 3D clothing modeling software and is currently our main competitor. At present, our software (Style3D) is designed and used for domestic users, although not too bad at the point of operation, but some customary methods will be closer to the use of China.
What is “tool type”?
Tool type means that I use this tool to make content, and then complete the mission of the tool. For example, we use PS, picture editing to get a better picture, but this picture I can use in many other places, but with PS software has nothing to do. This is different from the use phase and is now basically a tool-based phase. Because to reach a higher level of use, very large data accumulation is required. Objectively speaking, each software has its advantages and disadvantages, and we are more focused on optimizing some of the current domestic clothing industry to improve their efficiency.
E-commerce New Launch
1. 3D application of Alibaba project (Tmall Trends, Ali International Station)
Use this content to communicate the above image of the e-commerce scenario, or some online comments and comments, to improve the efficiency of current clothing communication, which is also done through cloud data.
You can click on the link below to see a case:
Alibaba’s 3D app
Sharing a link here is currently one of our users using virtual ways to sell online. This is also by far the most efficient application in 3D.
What else is the current 3D usage scenario? Why this is the most efficient 3D scenario
Clothing 3D is understandable, how to achieve fabric 3D texture?
For now, the only thing we’re missing is not being able to show how it feels. So many fabric manufacturers will send a lot of fabric color cards to customers to choose from. But now you can first through the digital fabric, first filter, and then carry out physical fabric delivery. This increases selection efficiency and reduces the cost of some measurements.
This is the link to the current Tmall trend released by the clothing 3D app.
At present, the 3D fabric feel can not be rendered, the visual texture mainly through the surface texture and physical properties of the adjustment.
Is the 3D model a version or an estimate of sales?
It is like the link above, first put 3D virtual clothing on the market to test. Of course, this test can be either a private prediction or a public prediction. After the test has feedback data, go to production. There are different kinds of testing methods, the main one is pre-sale. Especially for some foreign cross-border e-commerce, their period is still relatively loose, so some testing methods can be more accurate to market control and production.
Will you see this 3D virtual costume and place an order? I’m curious about the underlying data source and reliability of the measurement. If the texture, detail, and actual production of 3D clothing are the same, you may consider a small number to try?
I believe many people have such doubts, but there are Alibaba users to obtain orders. Of course, this is not absolute. At present, the combination of 3D and 2D is a more common method.
I think in the e-commerce platform sales, 3D and seller show is not very different, for buyers are looking at a style. But for production, using 3D pre-sale in the middle will save a lot of work.
Like this picture, do people think he’s dressed? Or 3D?
The first one is 3D. This picture for everyone to show is a combination of 3D and 2D. The second ready-to-wear is 3D, and the three details next to it are a display after using other styles to shoot parts. But be aware that in a market environment that is so competitive, if you can reduce costs while saving time, that’s a big advantage.
Another point is, how do you reduce the weight of the fabric? The differences in the layout of different fabrics are too big.
The simulation of the entire fabric, physical properties are the most important content too. We classify different fabrics and then test them to get their different physical properties, such as overhang, bending strength, etc. We had this type of test last year with a lot of Tmall merchants.
If the customer first placed an order through 3D advertising, they found that the physical and 3D images on the texture are much worse. It’s easy to destroy the acceptance of this new model.
From the beginning of the style planning to the design, to the face accessories to determine, to the layout of the determination and then proofing, this period can not be generalized, the average brand is about three months or more. Of course, it also depends on if it is a brand type of e-commerce or is design e-commerce, then time will probably be in a month, or a month and a half or so. If it is an e-commerce company, the time will be relatively shorter. 3D technology is visually capable of embodying this part of the content. But if it’s a process that needs to be digitized, then he needs to precipitate a lot of data. At present, we have a lot of brands through 3D software for the layout precipitation, to achieve design efficiency. It can only use data after the layout library has been precipitated and accumulated.
2. Digital application of internal and external clothing brands
You can open the following case to see
We worked with Tmall, and the public number had some instructions.
Through this picture, you can understand how 3D technology can play a role in the design of clothing to the production process. At present, we have relevant cooperation in different fields.
What is the calculation of the price of 3D design? Is there a difference from the traditional sample price?
3D is mainly through the digitization of fabrics, and then the fabric information, such as size grams, etc. through software calculations. Calculate its layout usage to estimate costs in a virtual process, effectively controlling costs at the design end.
The figure above is a world-renowned trending agency that describes trends in some of today’s virtual technologies.
These cases are some of our key customers last year. We are also currently the only designated 3D cooperative enterprise of the China Apparel Association.
Tmall fashion case
The report above is A New Fashion from Tmall, and you can also find out.
Can 3D accessories be made from 3D modeling software such as Maya?
If industrial modeling for zippers, most of them use rhinos. Maya can learn well and learn Maya is not afraid to walk all over 3D. Maya can produce modeling things like accessories, like the zip buttons mentioned earlier, shoes, etc. that can be used with Maya. Style3D is more about making flexible objects.
The link above is a fashion show between us and Zhejiang University of Technology. We are already working with North Service. This is already a course in some clothing schools. Because the future clothing industry will be a basic form of use of the 3D bar.
Let me ask you again, what are the limitations of the simulation that software can achieve today?
The limitation of the software is that it is only a flexible physical simulation at present, so the basis is flexible physical simulation. In addition to flexible physical simulation, content needs to be produced with other tools. This belongs to the product dimension there have been two ways to say 3D, one is rigid, one is flexible. Our current software is mainly flexible, our software can not do a zipper, or to do buttons such as rigid objects. Rigid materials are made from other software. Rigid 3D modeling software is still relatively sound in the industry system.
I wonder if LingDi has more ideas about the future of 3D in the fashion industry. LingDi has a cloud A R showroom, but at present, this is also used by enterprises internally, C side does not seem to have been applied.
In the fashion industry, it is not limited to the current real world, it will also shine in the virtual world. A virtual garment from a foreign company sold for $9,500. At present, it is more of a way to use virtual clothing combined with real scenes, a trend direction. 3D clothing abroad has been very hot, if everyone has concerns, should have understood it. Many large foreign brands have begun to use, which is also an inevitable trend.
I would like to know how to classify our users in terms of the users of 3D clothing software. Who’s going to be there? Like a designer? A moderator?
Speaking of this, I had a straight chat at BOSS two days ago and found a company that combined design and modeling, so their hiring position was “modeling designer”. At present, however, this situation is rare at home.
This is divided into different stages, depending on the actual situation of each company will be a little different. But most users are also based on the work of the plater because the entire use process is required to have plate-making knowledge. Some capable foreign designers are used directly because this way can be easier to play, create some of their ideas, will not be limited by some traditional ways. When they determine the design of these styles, it is up to the platemaker to perfect the plate making. So you can imagine that in the future, whether it is Beijing Fashion Design School or some other institutions of design graduates, they have learned to use this software, then the future design market will be a relatively large change.
So it’s closer to the role of the tool. As for who uses it, there is no too deep classification.
For now, this phase is mostly a tool phase. If this tool is used and precipitated through the cloud platform, it will become the most basic digital content.
So, at present, there is no classification on the user, but understand the design, plate making, and clothing technology, and other production links of people to engage in 3D modeling work, will be the more global vision. Just like designers who understand models and make, they don’t do some pointless design in the early stages. Moderators who understand design can also work with designers to make mutually satisfactory products.
They become richer on top of cloud platforms because good software has a platform to hold on to, which can have greater results.
The Moderator’s Conclusion
Changes in the clothing market environment
Changes in the external environment
The global epidemic has changed the business environment and the way of life at work
Changes in the internal environment
Economic double-cycle/education deepening
Clothing exploration of 3D technology
Costume 3D technology is on the market
The basic situation of 3D technology;
Style3D development and service content
3D clothing development path / 3D clothing application scenarios
E-commerce New Launch
3D applications for Alibaba projects (Tmall Trends, Ali International Station)
Alibaba International Station Virtual Clothing / Tmall Trend 3D Clothing Link
Digital application of domestic and foreign clothing brands
Foreign virtual clothing and virtual characters / domestic cooperation in various fields
#management # brand #entreprenuer #fashion industry #designer
Being a Creative Fashion Designer is something most designers aspire to, rather than being mediocre for the market. Through the combination of brand design research and development and commercial operation content, as well as the current communication between the two aspects of the effectiveness of the brand case analysis, we will explore brand building in the balance of creativity and business.
Topic: Balance between creativity and business in the brand management
Participant: LengYun Fashion Group #2
Moderator Yanni – BEIJING – Buyer – Clothing design and management major graduate students, an undergraduate in English major, has passed level 4 and level 8 English certificate, and business English certificate and other qualifications. During school time, participated in the National Costume Translation Program, worked as a sales assistant for BLACKMARKET-WHITEHOUSE, a women’s clothing product in Atlantic City, New Jersey, USA, and received a letter of recommendation from the General Manager. Worked as a buyer intern for the J.LINDBERG brand of BESTSELLER Group.
Moderator Ruosan -HANGZHOU – Designer – Now is working as a designer for a niche brand company.
Brand Design Research and Development Content
1. How the Cash-Cow Production Was Made
What are the main characters of a cash-cow product?
If a KOL wears it, it leads to more popular elements.
That is the element involved in production operations in terms of company structure. What do departments do? Because the cash-cow product is not an effort on one side. Designers certainly need to investigate trends before they design artwork, which is also laying the groundwork for becoming a hit.
I feel that on the one hand is luck, on the other hand, is the operation and cooperation. Most designers don’t know what they want from consumers, and trends are a big concept. How to land a trend to suit your brand, needs to be powerful. Young designers are weak.
I feel like I’m taking the overall direction and being keen on the market. Must pass the market test of designers, to be able to easily burst the money. Pricing is also critical, something that relies on a sense of talent. And this is also to find reference brands because newcomers are easy to start with their preferences, not from a market point of view. Designers generally like to mark new and different, are not down to earth, live in their world. The pursuit of self is different, and create redundant work.
This is in line with the fact that designers do not know the market, do not know how to sell clothes, do not understand the customer and it is just self-expression.
But if some newcomers want to get to know the market quickly in a short time, what growth cheats can be shared?
To learn more, it is best to go to the wholesale market to sell goods, but the general designer can not take this burden. Be aware that the wholesale market also has a lot of brands, from there out. You go to Nanyou to see, the country’s top quality is there. Hangzhou Four Seasons Qing can also learn style, quality is nothing but fabrics, technology, workmanship, finishing, layout, and other factors of the superposition.
Now a lot of good brands are made from factories. This is a growing process of the brand. And I think the designer’s idea to the most perfect realization needs to understand the most comprehensive supply chain.
Go to the wholesale market to learn new popular elements, this should be what the designer must know. Here I have sorted out some points about the explosion, which we can also add.
Cost-effective – To do this in design, to understand competitive brands and nearby stores, from the fabric, process quality, and price advantages.
Layout inclusion – Clothes that fit the brand’s mainstream consumers.
Popular elements to use – Grasp the popularity, design points can be used properly, too innovative clothing will be because of acceptance problems into slow sales.
Production delivery cycle is fast – This clothing everyone has to understand, and once the shop appeared in the explosion need to return the large goods also have to keep up.
Sales channels – This is very important, the style is good, no one sees it in vain.
2. Is The Newer The Design Idea, The Better?
When I first entered the company, every time the review, the director will say: “To have brand tone, you do this style is not good, this is not what you should do.” I believe that we should have encountered this situation, generally how to deal with it?
Brand tuning is a very abstract word. So how does the brand director explain this “tone”?
The director of my company doesn’t know much about design, and my experience of being temporarily transferred isn’t too good, no one directs it, and sometimes I don’t know how to breakthrough. What are the inspiration channels when you generally design a diagram?
If the communication is too abstract, it may still be indicated by data. Try to use some specific adjectives, the more direct the better.
A better way to communicate about clothing products:
Try to express it with more intuitive pictures. So why brands generally use MOOD BOARD (Emotional Board) to express themselves
Try to use labels that are not easily misunderstood, such as “youngness” and everyone may have a different definition of “youngness” than “light tones” or “high saturation tones” and “XXX profiles”.
Brand Business Research And Development Content
1. Fabric Procurement
Buyers communicate design solutions with designers, find the right fabrics on a cost-controlled basis, and find the right ready-to-wear suppliers and fabric suppliers.
(1) Confirm the fabric
Designers give the design plan, choose the available fabric sample card to the buyer, buyer ask the fabric supplier quotation, if the cost is too high, need to find the same quality of alternative fabrics.
(2) Confirm the process
After confirming the fabric used, and the garment supplier asked if the fabric can be used to achieve special fabric process requirements, such as hanging dyeing, folding, etc.
Our fabrics are all the latest fashions abroad. Domestic fabrics are often not perfect because of machinery and equipment problems. The aforementioned “Is this communication method inefficient for buyers to select fabrics for designers?” “Professional designers should have the ability to communicate with fabric suppliers. And designers must learn to understand fabrics, do not understand that can only be a design assistant, not enough to be a designer.
Designers choose fabrics, buyers communicate with suppliers, this situation is only for the company I worked for. Our buyers are mainly responsible for controlling costs, communicating, bargaining. Designers know a lot, but the company is actually to improve efficiency, the division of labor of each person clear.
It’s embarrassing if the designer doesn’t understand the fabric. Many designers only know about conventional fabrics and do not understand the properties of fabrics, so there will be fabric and design mismatch problems. Professional designers understand a lot, including playing version, craft, which is why new people need time to grow.
Many companies, including my current company, when I first went in are asking us to search for pictures as if as long as there are pictures exist this model can be operational, I would like to know other companies design inspiration process is those?
Every company has a different gene, a different structure, a different divisional orientation, and I think your approach is common.
E-commerce mostly does this, but traditional brand companies do not operate like this, there is a chance you go to traditional brand companies to do it. Today’s e-commerce designers are not real designers, just choices and remodelers.
2. Commodity Planning
The process our company goes through is like this. This is a relatively simple approach for small companies.
The process of planning a commodity:
The listing bands are divided according to the buyer’s plan for the store day (developed in conjunction with the series of bands in the design plan).
(2) Order meeting
According to the sales samples in the company to organize the order meeting, the buyer’s department provides a series of sample clothing supply departments under the store representative and e-commerce representative placed the order volume. After the order meeting, buyers regroup the previous styles according to the selection of the goods department and the corresponding orders, the unelected need to notify the supplier promptly to replenish the large quantities, advance and factory-prepared fabrics need to prepare plan B plan to the next season of a certain or previous best-selling model development. Commodity planning and design planning because the division of labor of the company will coincide, so we must look at it in general.
3. Design planning
Design the planning process:
Planning material collection
Developed by the Design Director to study and collect planning materials for the next quarter.
Series theme planning.
The theme is combined with the trend and visualized.
Series theme planning review.
The Design Director organizes the Sales and Merchandise departments to review the series of topics.
Series band development.
Once the theme has been determined, the development demand plan provided by the product department will be received, which will include bands, categories, volumes, price bands, etc. to be implemented into each series.
Preparation of design plans.
The Design Director will develop the design plan based on a series of topic and trend research reports.
Design planning review.
After the design plan is formulated, it will be reviewed in a meeting with the sales department and the commodity department.
Prepare the work plan of the design department.
The Design Department is divided among internal personnel according to the identified business plan.
Having said that, I’d like to ask you, how do you usually investigate trends?
Go to the mall more, one family to visit. Just look at the first-line, second-line big brands, look at all kinds of details summarized. I feel like I just need to go around and think more. I think what to do need to use high-dimensional thinking, stand in your leader’s perspective, from the starting point of comprehensive consideration to see, to learn, to think, with this way of thinking to develop habits, will grow faster.
I’ll read the reports of the trending agencies. Trend agencies collect information and analyze and summarize it.
My previous company was using WOWTREND hot trends. I use the VOGUE RUNWAY app to see the various brands of the show, and also to go to the mall to see clothes.
4. Cost Control
(1) Fabric development
Establish long-term cooperative relations with fabric suppliers, establish initial trust with suppliers, strive for the lowest cost fabrics by giving suppliers a certain amount of order commitment when initially developing fabrics, and for sure best-selling fabrics, buyers should, after consensus with the trend department, prepare fabrics to the factory in advance, purchase in bulk, reduce costs, and find alternative fabrics of the same quality after consensus on meeting the basic design requirements of designers. Find the key aspects to solve from the design function to be satisfied.
(2) Process development
(3) clear and clear expression of the designer’s demands, as far as possible the graphic and lush performance of the required techniques, following the factory’s doubts to communicate with the company’s moderators.
What the owner shares are a real-life case. But some of her practices at the company are unprofessional. For example, relying too much on searching for maps to complete so-called “designer research” work, this practice is more suitable for copy or remodelers, they are difficult to be called “designers.” But the reality is that many e-commerce designers do this.
Their merchandise plans are also extremely simple and crude. There is a big gap compared to traditional brand companies. But in reality, many e-commerce companies and small companies do.
These are not all designer issues, related to the workplace and business environment.
To tell you the truth, every time I see so many graduates, after entering the workplace was “distorted” career path, the heart feels very not taste. It’s not just designers, it’s other jobs that are similar.
If you take the first step in the workplace and follow a “crooked” (non-professional) path, it is hard to come over later. So why do many senior people prefer to hire new people? I would also like to hire rookies, from the beginning to establish the right way of thinking, understand what is “professional.” But it is not a small white problem, it’s a big environmental problem in the workplace itself. In a way, that is what I built my community for. I hope you can look at the problem as much as possible and increase your recognition.
Communication And Cooperation Among Brand Departments
1. Fabric development – designer and buyer communication
Generally, after the order meeting, the design department needs to fill in the face accessories list, and then take the face accessories list and sample clothes to the version of the nuclear process price and dosage. Finally, by the accessories procurement and fabric procurement and fabric development specialist to assess the nuclear price, all determined to be handed over to the procurement department to buy fabrics, under the big goods. How will designers negotiate with buyers when they are discounting the design results due to insufficient budgets in the process of selecting fabrics? To produce large goods when the procurement of sudden fabric change, we are generally how to solve?
In this case, if it is a violation of the previous agreement with the company, the factory can finally be requested to discount.
Because the batch of fabrics is not the same, big goods out is not the same, change fabrics for a time do not know which well to use, sometimes not discount can solve the problem.
2. Typing Process – Craftsman and designer communication
Do you generally have any difficulties in communicating with the moderators? General designers need to finish drawing the artwork after the details are clearly marked, and then handed over to the plater to play the version, but there will also be many problems. For example, we have encountered to the plater artwork, but hit out feel wrong, also said not to come out where is not the wrong situation? How does everyone deal with this situation in general?
I listened to the moderator and designer communication that day, feel that designers are a little afraid of the moderator, in the design of cringe.
Everyone is not professional is like comparing apples and oranges, can not find the reason is that it does not feel right.
It is common for designers to communicate with moderators, and it has been a phenomenon from the beginning to the present. The main reasons are the following: Many designers don’t understand the functional needs of the human body and lack a sense of three-dimensional space. A certain dress that you think you can achieve on the floor plan can also be made. And the moderator is most afraid to see this unviable design drawing. There aren’t many domestic moderators who have beauty. Most of them regard the moderator as a technical engineer. The version teacher should be an aesthetic engineer. So good moderators are still very scarce.
solution: If you want to be a master designer, you might want to be an all-rounder, not just a designer who can be “creative” and “drawing”. Playing the version is a basic skill. I think it’s hard to be a professional designer (unless you’re a genius). So designers should be able to make their versions. This will also allow you to communicate with the moderators in a more common language.
It’s up to you to have a keen insight, and what’s wrong with observing the details? Is it a size structure problem? Or is it a question of his version teacher’s sample version? Designers need to know something to do. Don’t necessarily do it yourself, but you know, such as shoulders, sleeves, arc how to connect to smooth?
3. Product feedback – sales department and buyer communication
The Goods Department will provide constructive advice on the purchase plan for the first quarter of the year based on the real-time sales data of the terminal stores. For example, pre-prepared fabrics according to the current sales situation are still likely to digest how much, according to this season’s sales situation will calculate the next band of stores need the number of styles.
In this objective forecast and estimation of the situation, buyers to do the current batch or the next batch to do the goods in mind.
The sales plan is another matter, belongs to test the sales ability of the company’s sales department personnel, and has nothing to do with the product.
Buyers to digest fabric inventory and style inventory will force the store to divide the goods, and sales stores will have their own KPI indicators. Because each store has its purchase amount, the store manager also has a certain ability to select goods, if the selection is not good, will also affect the final performance indicators.
Under such circumstances, we think that we must communicate with the buyer to satisfy the interests of both sides to the greatest extent possible?
When there is a contradiction in the working position, the common goal should be to take the enterprise goal as the common goal. What is the purpose of communication? is to solve the problem. So what needs to be addressed? Ultimately, it’s all about boosting sales. So how can you improve sales and do it?
The biggest problem with buying and designers, in reality, is that everyone is talking about feelings. “I think this one’s a hit”; “I think it’s hard to sell” … The question is, “What do you think?” “There should be a rational analysis of this. Take the data out to demonstrate, ask colleagues or consumers around to do product testing in advance to collect feedback, are methods.
There is a common misconception in data argumentation. A lot of people like to say, “This one sold well last year and continues to be ordered this year.” Here’s a basic logic question, which assumes that “last year sold well, this year must sell well!” But for a product like fashion, last year sold well, this year may not necessarily sell well. First, you should analyze what makes the sale so good, and then look at whether it’s an accidental factor (e.g. climate, discounting) or whether the product itself is really popular. If the product is popular, what is popular (overall style, color, printing, fabric, etc.), and then decide whether to continue to do this model or, can be slightly modified to continue the life cycle of the model.
The Creative And Commercial Balance Of The Brand
1. Brand long-term planning and short-term goals
Brand long-term planning focuses on the development and establishment of brand value, in the short term sales profits will certainly be reduced, the company’s planning should be the design department built on top of the sales department. Design-led, short-term goals for marketing brands, increased attractiveness, attention.
Brand design department on behalf of creativity, buyer procurement department corresponding cost control is the commercial operation part of the brand. When the design is above the rest of the sector, the brand is looking for a breakthrough in its value. When value accumulates to a certain stage, the brand begins to recover costs and is led by sales. The control of these two aspects will have a game process at every stage of the brand’s development. But ultimately unchanged, is in the short-term brand whether it is interests or design-led long-term development.
2. Brand operation strategy
The brand operation seeks the long-term existence of the brand, suitable for its development strategy, according to the first part of the long-term goals and short-term goals of the establishment, each department to do their part, but also need to work together. An important way to balance creativity with business is through the “contradictions” of various departments. Designers are good at creativity, and moderators, buyers, sales are partners who help designers bring ideas from heaven to earth. So most of the contradictions that co-workers produce at work are not essential contradictions, but a balanced way to make products easier to sell eventually.
The Moderator’s Conclusion
First, brand design research and development content
How the money was made
Popular elements to use
Production delivery cycle is fast
Second, it’s usually how you communicate with the director. You can use key tag words and pictures.
A source of inspiration for designers
Online: wgsn, pop.
Offline: Mall, South Oil Wholesale Market.
Brand business operations content
First, fabric procurement
Buyers communicate design solutions with designers, find the right fabrics on a cost-controlled basis, and find the right ready-to-wear suppliers and fabric suppliers.
Second, trend research
Offline: (1) to shop to understand users; (2) to study competitive clothing, analysis of her slow-selling money to take its specialty, avoid its shortcomings.
Online: Each channel search map, find their brand style of pictures, analysis of what is desirable new creative points.
Stocking: Divided the listing band according to the buyer’s plan’s store day (developed with the series of bands in the design plan)
Ordering meeting: Organize the order meeting within the company according to the sample.
4. Design and planning
(1) Planning materials collection
(2) Series theme planning
(3) Series theme planning review
(4) Series band development theme
(5) Preparation of design plans
(6) Design planning review
(7) Prepare the work plan of the design department
5. Cost control
First, fabric development:
Fabric development and fabric suppliers to establish long-term cooperative relations, establish and supplier of the initial trust relationship;
Second, process development:
Clear and clear expression of the designer’s demands, as far as possible to the graphic and lush performance of the required techniques, following the factory issued by the question to communicate with the company’s moderators.
Third, brand communication and cooperation
Fabric development – designer and buyer communication: After the order meeting, the designer fills out the face accessories list that needs to be handed over to the purchase and then handed over to the buyer to complete.
Layout process – craftsman and designer communication: Designers should accumulate more experience, at the same time, they also need to understand the layout of knowledge, the two sides can better communicate.
Product feedback – sales department and buyer communication: The goods department will put forward constructive suggestions on the purchase plan for the first quarter of the purchase according to the real-time sales data of the terminal store, and the buyer will also have to do several goods in mind for the current batch or the next batch to be done.
Fourth, the brand’s creative and commercial balance
Brand long-term planning and short-term goals: Design-led, short-term goals for marketing brands, increased attractiveness, attention.
Brand operation strategy: The brand operation seeks the long-term brand suitable for its development strategy, to ensure that “with the least amount of money to do the best product” principle to do a good job of design and procurement of the balance and communication between the two.