My fashion critic for the Mexican high fashion magazine Codigo is published. A pioneering publication, Codigo is a Spanish equivalent of I-D magazine in Europe. For this issue, they asked writers from 5 countries to write about emerging designers in their own country. I wrote for the Chinese part. I eventually decided to write about Shangguan Zhe (上官). He is 100% made in China. He never received any education from overseas. Nor did his family have any connection abroad. So he can represent his generation that is totally made-in-China. Moreover, his designs feature some subversion of traditional Chinese ways of thinking. The Chinese people is overall not a people of humor. Shang Guan’s style has mixed many things- humor, gangster, and street elements along with some serious culture.
The Dutch designer Iris Van Hetpen is a conceptual designer. She combines traditional craftsmanship with high technology to express a female understanding of body, desire, emotions and culture.
J. W. Anderson, probably the most commercially successful designer in this series of designers. Originally from Northern Ireland, J.W debuted in London Fashion Week in 2008 and his brand is already selling in some mainstream malls and specialty boutiques, including Saks, Pret-a-porter, Corso Como and Joyce.
Una Burke, also a conceptual designer. She uses vegetation and tanned leather for her design. Inspirations mainly come from military and medical uniforms.
Craig Green, a menswear designer from London. His designs have evident traces of Central Saint Martins. CSM always aims to subvert the tradition and break the rules.
The English version of this series is coming…