Christine Tsui Fashion Community Group Discussion
The Utilization of Fur in Sustainable Fashion
Date：01/05/2018
Time: 8pm to 10pm
Host by Midori-shanghai-designer
Pisces, a post-90s designer with mild obsessive-compulsive disorder, has a strong executive power and a combination of care and patience. Three years local brand designer experience, in the design has its own preference and opinion.
The outline of discussion:
1. Definition of fur.
1.1What is fur? (10 min)
1.2 Production of genuine fur (20min)
2. The application of fur in the clothing industry.
2.1 What kind of clothes does fur usually make? (20 min)
2.2 How to maintain the clothing of fur? (20 min)
3. The application of fur in society.
3.1 Since the application of dermis involves the killing of animals, how do you think about this problem? 30 (mim)
4. How to get fur into sustainable fashion (30min)
Forward
In the fashion industry, the use of animal fur has been controversial. In recent years, many luxury brands have launched calls to reject the use of fur. In addition to the cruelty with which animal fur is used, Will it still have a place in the fashion industry? How to use fur to develop in the field of sustainable fashion?
PART ONE: Definition of Fur
1. What is fur?
Fur is the hair covering of non-human (and some human furry) mammals, particularly those mammals with extensive body hair that is soft and thick. The stiffer bristles on animals such as pigs are not generally referred to as fur.
The discussion is as follows:
Midori-shanghai-designer
What is fur?(10min)
Midori-shanghai-designer
By nature
Midori-shanghai-designer
like this
(pictures come from the web)
Midori-shanghai-designer
Fur is also used to refer to animal pelts which has been processed into leather with the hair still attached. The words fur or furry are also used, more casually, to refer to hair-like growths or formations, particularly When the subject is referred to exhibits a dense coat of fine, soft “hairs”.
Midori-shanghai-designer
If layered, rather than grown as a single coat, it may consist of short down hairs, long guard hairs, and in some cases, medium awn hairs.
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
Ok,that is very complex
Heather-Wuhan-AGL
Very detailed
Midori-shanghai-designer
Our topic Fur refers to the use of animal fur made of clothing ,has a warm effect.
Yohanna
Now many brands use artificial fur
Heather-Wuhan-AGL
Seems that any fur could be made into cloth？
Midori-shanghai-designer
and now the fur is more beautiful and higher prices are also many consumers. Animals such as foxes, rex rabbits , and sheep are all major sources of raw materials for fur.
2. Production of Genuine Fur
There are many kinds of fur classification methods, which can be divided in to early maturity, middle maturity, late maturity and most advanced maturity according to the mature period of the hair.
The discussion is as follows:
Midori-shanghai-designer
Fur clothing was first worn during the fourteenth to seventh and is a symbolic garment in European History
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
Means how old the animal is when you kill it?
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
@Midori-shanghai-designer cool
Midori-shanghai-designer
So we’ll sort it out according to the way the hair is treated.
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
But I will say human like native Indians, Vikings ,and other wear fur for sake of keeping warm .
Midori-shanghai-designer
What kind of fur do you know ?
Midori-shanghai-designer
The need for warmth.
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
How is it with the maturity?
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
I’m interested
Midori-shanghai-designer
No , we’re not talking about skin removal.
Midori-shanghai-designer
According to the processing methods, they can be classified into the tanned, dyeing and finishing classes, shearing Class.
- According to the appearance characteristics can be divided into thick fur, represented by fox skin; medium-thick fur, represented by molting; thin fur, represented by Persian lambskin.
- It is more commonly used by people to classify them by the fur and the cortex of the raw material.
- Small hairy skins: mainly include purple mink, chinchilla (Chrysanthemum, also known as Chrysanthemum) mink skin, mink skin, sea dragon skin, snow fleas, yellow skin, AI tiger skin, chin rat skin, silver skin, Musk skin, beaver skin, raccoon skin, etc.,
- hair is thin and soft. Suitable for hair caps, coats and so on. Large capillary class: mainly including foxes, raccoon skins, tanned skins, raccoon skins, and raccoon skins. Larger picture. It is often used to make hats, coats, capes, etc.
- Rough fur: Commonly used sheepskin, dog skin, wolf skin, leopard skin, marmot skin and so on. The hair length and width are slightly larger. Can be used to make hats, coats, vests, clothes, etc.
- Miscellaneous fur: including cat skin, rabbit skin, etc., suitable for clothing accessories, the price is lower.
Midori-shanghai-designer
That’s my classification of the leather used in clothing.
Midori-shanghai-designer
Do you have another question of fur?
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
Do you have some pictures ?
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
Seadragon skin for example…I can’t really imagine how it looks like
Midori-shanghai-designer
the picture is from sinaweibo
Midori-shanghai-designer
This is Seadragon
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
or around the hood @Alena~Shanghai~AGL damn…how do they hunt these guys down
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
I guess it is the same like seals
Midori-shanghai-designer
Seadog skin, commonly known as “sea dragon skin”@Alena~Shanghai~AGL
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
I had no idea they are used for fur to be honest.
Midori-shanghai-designer
So the use of real leather is cruel.
PART TWO: The Application of Fur in Garment Industry
1. What kind of clothes does fur usually make?
Animal fur is often made into shoes, bags, accessories, coats, sweaters, down jackets, and other clothing. Commonly used are mink hair, rabbit hair, fox hair, wool, hippocampal hair, cattle skin, sheep skin, pig skin, etc.
The discussion is as follows:
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
It doesn’t have anything to do with staying warm as they have been other materials invented
Midori-shanghai-designer
Let’s take a look at the history of fur use.
Midori-shanghai-designer
Fur clothing was first worn during the fourteenth to seventh century and is a symbolic garment in European History. The kings and queens of England ordered proclamations to regulate fur aka “sumptuary legislation”.
- Sumptuary legislation established the stigmatism of Fur association limited to the higher social statuses and convey the idea of exclusivity.
- Exotic furs such as fox, marten, grey squirrel and ermine were reserved for aristocratic elites. The middle class were known to wear fox, hare and beaver while the less fortunate wore Goat, wolf and sheepskin. Due to clothing being loose and garments were known to be layered, fur was used for visible linings. Different kinds of fur were worn during seasons and social classes. Animals with fur decreased in West Europe and began to be Imported from the Middle East and Russia
Heather-Wuhan-AGL
So it is a historical issue right
Midori-shanghai-designer
The fur at first was used as clothing for the royal family.
Heather-Wuhan-AGL
Because of its scarcity？
Midori-shanghai-designer
So only noble people wear fur.
Sailinli-Beijing-Researcher
In ancient China fur was also graded.
Enya.Y-Shanghai-PJ
Represent the power.
Midori-shanghai-designer
Because of the natural warmth of fur and the complexity of making clothes.
Midori-shanghai-designer
Of course ,in ancient hunting ,the fur of a hunted animal was worn as a symbol of victory.
Midori-shanghai-designer
@Enya.Y-Shanghai-PJ A little symbol of power.
Midori-shanghai-designer
As new kinds of fur entered Europe, other uses were made with fur other than clothing. Beaver was most desired but used to make hats which became a popular headpiece particularly during the wartime. Swedish soldier wore broad-brimmed hats made exclusive from beaver felt. Due to the limitations of beaver fur, hat-makers relied heavily on North America for imports as beaver was only available in the Scandinavian peninsula.
Midori-shanghai-designer
this is beaver
Enya.Y-Shanghai-PJ
So Cruel
Midori-shanghai-designer
The twentieth century was the beginning of the fur coats being fashionable in West Europe with full fur coats. With lifestyle changes as a result of developments like indoor heating, the international textile trade Affected how fur was distributed around the world. Europeans focused on using local resources giving fur association with femininity with the increasing use of mink. In 1970, Germany was the world’s largest fur market. The International Fur Trade Federation banned endangering species furs like silk monkey, ocelot, leopard, tiger, and polar bear in 1975. The use of animal skins were brought to light during the 1980s by animal right organizations and the demand for fur decreased. Anti-fur organizations increased awareness of the controversy between animal welfare and fashion. Fur farming became banned in Britain in 1999. During the twenty-first century, fox and mink have been bred in captivity with Denmark, Holland and Finland being leaders of mink production.
Midori-shanghai-designer
In addition to the fur applications mentioned above,do you know of other fur applications?
Midori-shanghai-designer
Now there are wool,fox hair are used to make cloth.
Midori-shanghai-designer
These furs are usually used in sweater ,sand down jackets.
2. How to maintain the clothing of fur?
When placed indoors, for fur clothes:
a. It is best to hang in a dark, low temperature, well ventilated, dry environment.
b. Fur garments should be hung on special hangers with high-necked, wide-shouldered shoulders, and covered with a silk cover, and stored in a closet with air circulation.
c. There should be at least 6 cm space between the fur and other clothes to allow the fur to “breathe”.
d. Do not contaminate fur with other chemicals.5. In the summer, special attention should be paid to avoid high temperature and humidity and insect ant damage.
High-grade fur cleaning (mink skin).
Washing powder: Magnesium oxide powder, talcum powder ratio 1:1
Washing method: Spread the fur on the wash case, evenly rub the quilt with a sponge duster, wipe the special soiled part repeatedly, stand for 24 hours, clean the hair powder with a brush, and then put the fur on the portrait on the air mold, the powder was blown clean with an air spray gun, and the hair was straightened with a fine-tooth comb.
Ordinary fur cleaning (sheep skin).
Washing solvent: 95% alcohol Common dose: Alcohol 200-250ml
Washing powder: Talc powder Common dosage: Talc 500-1000g
Washing method: Put the fur on the figure air mold, spray the alcohol solvent evenly onto the blanket with an air spray gun, repeatedly rub the hair quilt with a sponge duster, supplement with a gentle rubbing, sweep the hair with a brush Powder, and then use air spray gun to clean the powder, with a sparse comb to the hair to be straight forward to clear the finishing.
White plush yellowing treatment.
Washing solution: hydrogen peroxide, water ratio 1:10
Washing method: Put the fur on the figure air mold, spray the solution evenly onto the blanket with an air spray gun, fully wet for 5 minutes, gently brush with a short-haired brushing solution from top to bottom, and finally use a water spray gun to coat the hair. Rinse thoroughly, place in a cool, dry place, and clean the hair in a straight line.
The discussion is as follows:
Midori-shanghai-designer
Do you know how to tell a hairy garment?
Heather-Wuhan-AGL
By burning？
Midori-shanghai-designer
Then smell it～
Heather-Wuhan-AGL
Just like distinct different fabrics ，does different fur has different smell？
Midori-shanghai-designer
Because there is a lot of wool-like clothing now , it’s not realistic to burn it alone , for the general public.
Midori-shanghai-designer
True wool contains a lot of protein ,and a few fibers are ignited on the clothes . Smell the scent .Look at the ash .If there is a charred scent ,the ash is crushed with a finger ,that is pure wool ;if there is no smell of charred feathers ,Ash pressure is not broken ,ag glomeration , it is chemical fiber fabrics. @Heather-Wuhan-AGL
PART THREE: The Application of Fur in Society
1. Since the application of dermis involves the killing of animals, how do you think about this problem?
Fur used a lot of chemicals in the production process for degreasing and cleaning, such as formaldehyde. Damage to the surrounding water quality and the environment. This is contrary to the current concept of low-carbon environmental protection.
Some people have suggested that “for a piece of clothing, whether or not animals should be given a cruel price,” so-called no-buy, no harm, how consumers should take action?
The discussion is as follows:
Midori-shanghai-designer
Some people indiscriminately kill wild animals in the drive of their interests, leaving some rare wild animals on the verge of extinction，anyone agree that？
Midori-shanghai-designer
With the increase of human morality and civilization, the concept of environmental protection has received more and more attention. Fur and environmental protection have become the subject of constant controversy. What do you think?
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
sustainable sourcing
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
can real fur sourcing be ethical and sustainable?
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
Well I guess everybody agree
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
As long as it means killing a living creature
Midori-shanghai-designer
also，fur used a lot of chemicals in the production process for degreasing and cleaning, such as formaldehyde. Damage to the surrounding water quality and the environment. This is contrary to the current concept of low-carbon environmental protection.
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
fur has been part of humanity society since early homo sapiens.
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
And there have been so many leaked videos about the conditions of the animals.
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
so no real fur will be change of our mindset
Midori-shanghai-designer
Besides, if you don’t have real fur, will you be wearing fur imitation clothes?
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
Yes, but back then the fur was used for survival reasons
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
keep warmth
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
Yes
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
fur is excellent on this
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
Of course
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
like duck or Goose down
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
also wool is a superior fiber
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
But aren’t other materials now very good in keeping us warm as well?
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
not as good
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
down is breathable
Midori-shanghai-designer
But will the production of imitation fur also cause pollution to the environment?
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
Yes it will
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
Now there is a question what is better
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
In terms of protecting the environment
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
all those polyester based padding doesnt breath so well and not easy to have same level of warmth but technology is improving
Midori-shanghai-designer
Some people have suggested that “for a piece of clothing, whether or not animals should be given a cruel price,” so-called no-buy, no harm, how consumers should take action.
Heather-Wuhan-AGL
It depends much on consumers’ attitude
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
we should focus on low impact on the environment and longevity of the product
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
So , whatever we do we impact the environment as little as possible for sustainable living for mankind @Alena~Shanghai~AGL reused
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
Can fur be recycled?
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
for sure
Midori-shanghai-designer
So, in recent years, many brands have called for a boycott of fur. Does this work?
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
@Midori-shanghai-designer when u boycott . somebody somewhere may Lose their job
PART FOUR: How to get fur into sustainable fashion
a. Finding new ways to produce textiles
b. Natural furs from wild hunting and farming are sustainable
The discussion is as follows:
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
everyone do their part… step by step approach
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
reuse old fur
Heather-Wuhan-AGL
yes，especially farm consumers，every one of us
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
use fur that related to food industry?
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
You use the fur of the animals that is used for food industry…
Midori-shanghai-designer
Finding new ways to produce textiles
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
Also an option
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
@Alena~Shanghai~AGL yea that can have lower impact
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
True
Midori-shanghai-designer
Different ways of producing and processing materials means that they have different effects on the environment. As we all know, there are risks in the production of petroleum compounds, such as the pollution from the chemical refining process to the toxic chemicals emitted during the production of chemical fiber fabrics. However, there are deficiencies in each fabric, including organic fabrics. For example, traditional methods of cotton cultivation use large amounts of water, synthetic fertilizers, and pesticides, which also destroy the habitat of wild animals. In the case of agricultural farming, waste treatment also needs to be considered. Another consideration is the environmental impact of raw materials and garments. Clothing entirely produced and sold locally has less impact on the environment than garments produced and sold in multiple locations, such as the production of chemical fiber garments, oil drilling in the Gulf of Mexico, processing into fabrics in China, sewing in Vietnam, and then selling in Europe.
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
But there wouldn’t be sufficient supply
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
price would go up and more pepole would enter
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
And there we go again
Midori-shanghai-designer
sorry，this is too long
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
There should be only a law enforcement
Heather-Wuhan-AGL
and may lead to more animal getting killed
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
Viciouscircl
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
Circle
Midori-shanghai-designer
Some people think that farmed fur is also environmentally friendly
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
sustainable living for mankind and sustainable economic growth
Midori-shanghai-designer
Materials can be divided into two categories: organic materials (plants and animals) and inorganic materials (coal, petroleum, ore, etc.).
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
I just wish there weren’t those Russian fur farms where the skin the animals alive and leave them to die
Midori-shanghai-designer
Organic materials are sustainable because they can be regenerated; plants and animals can continue to grow and can be continuously replenished. Common in clothing are cotton, linen, bamboo, wool, natural fur, down and leather. Inorganic materials are not sustainable because they cannot be regenerated; once they are consumed, they really disappear, unless more inorganic materials can be found. Important inorganic materials used in chemical fiber clothing are synthesized from petroleum such as acrylic and polyester.
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
@Midori-shanghai-designer goes back to sustainable farming
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
controlled forest
Midori-shanghai-designer
Natural fur farming, like other animal husbandry, is inherently sustainable because farmers can decide on the number of animals to feed based on market conditions
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
@Midori-shanghai-designer u always need to predict
Midori-shanghai-designer
We can indirectly believe that aquaculture is actually conducive to wild hunting because of the high demand for farmed animals while reducing the pressure of wild hunting.
Midori-shanghai-designer
Fur farming also minimizes the impact on the environment through other means, such as the use of human food residues for animal feeding; the use of manure as agricultural organic fertilizers; and the conversion of carcasses into biofuels.
Midori-shanghai-designer
and what do you think about it？
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
@Midori-shanghai-designer is good start
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
Hmmm I guess
Midori-shanghai-designer
Natural fur is one of the most sustainable materials on the planet. It comes from the sustainable production of natural materials, uses rather gentle production processes, and ultimately makes durable and recyclable garments that provide decades of warmth. After being comfortable, it will eventually be fully biodegraded.
Midori-shanghai-designer
Of course, I know what you are thinking: The truth about natural fur (Truth About Fur website) promotes natural fur, so it is not surprising that we praise it.
Heather-Wuhan-AGL
what about the use of artificial fur？
Midori-shanghai-designer
Although artificial leather is considered to be friendly to animals, its production process and non-recyclable and non-degradable properties are also indirectly harmful to the environment .@Heather-Wuhan-AGL
Christine-Shanghai-Group founder
to get fur farm animals is also a solution for ecology system.
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
@Alena~Shanghai~AGL we are getting more and more sustainable which is a good direction
Midori-shanghai-designer
These chemical fiber garments will be sent to landfills when they are abandoned. The resulting tiny plastic particles will then damage our oceans.
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
i have a PLA based poly bag is my office and is biodegradable but…getting thinner and thinner every time I show people.
Heather-Wuhan-AGL
that’s interesting
Midori-shanghai-designer
But if the clothing material we produce has a high durability of 3-5 years, it may reduce the degradation pressure.
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
I see
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
PLA is from corn starch and if everything turns into PLA then will compete with our food source…means more farmland?
Midori-shanghai-designer
@Vincent-shanghai-Incubator interesting
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
@Midori-shanghai-designer so how do brands have a sustainable business model?
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
sustainability is not just environmental impact and working condition
Midori-shanghai-designer
Does the brand do the recycling of this part of the sustainable business model like h&m
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
@Midori-shanghai-designer they certainly can
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
i am going send my scrap polyester fabrics to recyclers to make recycled polyester yarns
Midori-shanghai-designer
But not many brands have the same ability to handle these used clothes as they do with H & M.
Midori-shanghai-designer
about the topic How to get fur into sustainable fashion my conclusion is
- Natural furs from wild hunting and farming are sustainable
- Finding new ways to produce textiles
Discussion of the original text:
Midori-shanghai-designer
How to get fur into sustainable fashion(30min)
Midori-shanghai-designer
What is fur?(10min)
Midori-shanghai-designer
By nature
Midori-shanghai-designer
Fur is the hair covering of non-human (and some human furry) mammals,
particularly those mammals with extensive body hair that is soft and thick.
The stiffer bristles on animals such as pigs are not generally referred to as fur.
Midori-shanghai-designer
like this
Midori-shanghai-designer
Fur is also used to refer to animal pelts which has been processed into leather with the hair still attached. The words fur or furry are also used, more casually, to refer to hair-like growths or formations, particularly When the subject is referred to exhibits a dense coat of fine, soft “hairs”.
Midori-shanghai-designer
If layered, rather than grown as a single coat, it may consist of short down hairs, long guard hairs, and in some cases, medium awn hairs.
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
Ok,that is very complex
Heather-Wuhan-AGL
Very detailed
Midori-shanghai-designer
Our topic Fur refers to the use of animal fur made of clothing ,has a warm effect.
Yohanna
Now many brands use artificial fur
Heather-Wuhan-AGL
Seems that any fur could be made into cloth？
Midori-shanghai-designer
and now the fur is more beautiful and higher prices are also many consumers . Animals such as foxes , rex rabbits , and sheep are all major sources of raw materials for fur.
Midori-shanghai-designer
So let’s start the next ~
Midori-shanghai-designer
Production of genuine fur (20min)
Midori-shanghai-designer
Fur clothing was first worn during the fourteenth to seventh and is a symbolic garment in European History
Midori-shanghai-designer
There are many kinds of fur classification methods ,which can be divided in to early maturity ,middle maturity ,late maturity and most advanced maturity according to the mature period of the hair.
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
Means how old the animal is when you kill it?
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
@Midori-shanghai-designer cool
Midori-shanghai-designer
So we’ll sort it out according to the way the hair is treated.
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
But I will say human like native Indians , Vikings ,and other wear fur for sake of keeping warm .
Midori-shanghai-designer
What kind of fur do you know ?
Midori-shanghai-designer
The need for warmth.
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
How is it with the maturity?
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
I’m interested
Midori-shanghai-designer
No , we’re not talking about skin removal.
Midori-shanghai-designer
According to the processing methods, they can be classified into the tanned, dyeing and finishing classes, shearing Class.
- According to the appearance characteristics can be divided into thick fur, represented by fox skin; medium-thick fur, represented by molting; thin fur, represented by Persian lambskin.
- It is more commonly used by people to classify them by the fur and the cortex of the raw material.
- Small hairy skins: mainly include purple mink, chinchilla (Chrysanthemum, also known as Chrysanthemum) mink skin, mink skin, sea dragon skin, snow fleas, yellow skin, AI tiger skin, chin rat skin, silver skin, Musk skin, beaver skin, raccoon skin, etc.,
- hair is thin and soft. Suitable for hair caps, coats and so on. Large capillary class: mainly including foxes, raccoon skins, tanned skins, raccoon skins, and raccoon skins. Larger picture. It is often used to make hats, coats, capes, etc.
- Rough fur: Commonly used sheepskin, dog skin, wolf skin, leopard skin, marmot skin and so on. The hair length and width are slightly larger. Can be used to make hats, coats, vests, clothes, etc.
- Miscellaneous fur: including cat skin, rabbit skin, etc., suitable for clothing accessories, the price is lower.
Midori-shanghai-designer
That’s my classification of the leather used in clothing.
Midori-shanghai-designer
Do you have another question of fur?
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
Do you have some pictures ?
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
Seadragon skin for example…I can’t really imagine how it looks like
Midori-shanghai-designer
the picture is from sinaweibo
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
Raccoon is popular
Midori-shanghai-designer
This is the Sea dragon skin made for coat
Midori-shanghai-designer
What kind of products do raccoons usually use ? @Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
What animal is it?
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
@Midori-shanghai-designer fur collar
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
No way!
Midori-shanghai-designer
This is Seadragon
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
or around the hood @Alena~Shanghai~AGL damn…how do they hunt these guys down
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
I guess it is the same like seals
Midori-shanghai-designer
Seadog skin, commonly known as “sea dragon skin”@Alena~Shanghai~AGL
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
I had no idea they are used for fur to be honest.
Midori-shanghai-designer
So the use of real leather is cruel.
Midori-shanghai-designer
The next~
Heather-Wuhan-AGL
Indeed！
Midori-shanghai-designer
The application of fur in the clothing industry.
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
Well yes.
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
The clothing it is just for greed
Enya.Y-Shanghai-PJ
Oh my god，I really cannot imagine that
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
It doesn’t have anything to do with staying warm as they have been other materials invented
Midori-shanghai-designer
Let’s take a look at the history of fur use.
Midori-shanghai-designer
Fur clothing was first worn during the fourteenth to seventh century and is a symbolic garment in European History. The kings and queens of England ordered proclamations to regulate fur aka “sumptuary legislation”.
- Sumptuary legislation established the stigmatism of Fur association limited to the higher social statuses and convey the idea of exclusivity.
- Exotic furs such as fox, marten, grey squirrel and ermine were reserved for aristocratic elites. The middle class were known to wear fox, hare and beaver while the less fortunate wore Goat, wolf and sheepskin. Due to clothing being loose and garments were known to be layered, fur was used for visible linings. Different kinds of fur were worn during seasons and social classes. Animals with fur decreased in West Europe and began to be Imported from the Middle East and Russia
Heather-Wuhan-AGL
So it is a historical issue right
Midori-shanghai-designer
The fur at first was used as clothing for the royal family.
Heather-Wuhan-AGL
Because of its scarcity？
Midori-shanghai-designer
So only noble people wear fur.
Sailinli-Beijing-Researcher
In ancient China fur was also graded.
Enya.Y-Shanghai-PJ
Represent the power.
Midori-shanghai-designer
Because of the natural warmth of fur and the complexity of making clothes.
Midori-shanghai-designer
Of course ,in ancient hunting ,the fur of a hunted animal was worn as a symbol of victory.
Midori-shanghai-designer
@Enya.Y-Shanghai-PJ A little symbol of power.
Midori-shanghai-designer
As new kinds of fur entered Europe, other uses were made with fur other than clothing. Beaver was most desired but used to make hats which became a popular headpiece particularly during the wartime. Swedish soldier wore broad-brimmed hats made exclusive from beaver felt. Due to the limitations of beaver fur, hat-makers relied heavily on North America for imports as beaver was only available in the Scandinavian peninsula.
Midori-shanghai-designer
this is beaver
Enya.Y-Shanghai-PJ
So Cruel
Midori-shanghai-designer
The twentieth century was the beginning of the fur coats being fashionable in West Europe with full fur coats. With lifestyle changes as a result of developments like indoor heating, the international textile trade Affected how fur was distributed around the world. Europeans focused on using local resources giving fur association with femininity with the increasing use of mink. In 1970, Germany was the world’s largest fur market. The International Fur Trade Federation banned endangering species furs like silk monkey, ocelot, leopard, tiger, and polar bear in 1975. The use of animal skins were brought to light during the 1980s by animal right organizations and the demand for fur decreased. Anti-fur organizations increased awareness of the controversy between animal welfare and fashion. Fur farming became banned in Britain in 1999. During the twenty-first century, fox and mink have been bred in captivity with Denmark, Holland and Finland being leaders of mink production.
Midori-shanghai-designer
In addition to the fur applications mentioned above ,do you know of other fur applications?
Midori-shanghai-designer
Now there are wool ,fox hair are used to make cloth
Midori-shanghai-designer
These furs are usually used in sweater ,sand down jackets
Midori-shanghai-designer
Do you know how to tell a hairy garment?
Heather-Wuhan-AGL
By burning？
Midori-shanghai-designer
right～
Midori-shanghai-designer
Then smell it～
Heather-Wuhan-AGL
Just like distinct different fabrics ，does different fur has different smell？
Midori-shanghai-designer
Because there is a lot of wool-like clothing now , it’s not realistic to burn it alone , for the general public.
Midori-shanghai-designer
True wool contains a lot of protein ,and a few fibers are ignited on the clothes . Smell the scent .Look at the ash .If there is a charred scent ,the ash is crushed with a finger ,that is pure wool ;if there is no smell of charred feathers ,Ash pressure is not broken ,ag glomeration , it is chemical fiber fabrics. @Heather-Wuhan-AGL
Heather-Wuhan-AGL
Thank you.
Midori-shanghai-designer
And I don’t know how to distinguish other furs.
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
That’s interesting
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
@Midori-shanghai-designer a lot of recycled wool also in the market
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
And also have recycled duck down
Midori-shanghai-designer
Wow the recycled duck down？
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
yep
Midori-shanghai-designer
Use it to make Down jacket ？
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
yep
Midori-shanghai-designer
And the duvet quilt？
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
yep
Midori-shanghai-designer
How do you recycle and reuse duck down?
Midori-shanghai-designer
Is the way of recycling complicated? @Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
u collect used down jacket
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
i dont know the detail method
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
but i know people who does that
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
and there is also US companies supplied recycled down
Midori-shanghai-designer
Okay .but thank you to tell us that method～
Midori-shanghai-designer
I’ll share some of your common fur care tips.
Enya.Y-Shanghai-PJ
Thank u
Midori-shanghai-designer
When placed indoors, for fur clothes
1.It is best to hang in a dark, low temperature, well ventilated, dry environment.
2.Fur garments should be hung on special hangers with high-necked, wide-shouldered shoulders, and covered with a silk cover, and stored in a closet with air circulation.
3.There should be at least 6 cm space between the fur and other clothes to allow the fur to “breathe”.
4.Do not contaminate fur with other chemicals.5. In the summer, special attention should be paid to avoid high temperature and humidity and insect ant damage.
Midori-shanghai-designer
High-grade fur cleaning (mink skin).
Washing powder: Magnesium oxide powder, talcum powder ratio 1:1
Washing method: Spread the fur on the wash case, evenly rub the quilt with a sponge duster, wipe the special soiled part repeatedly, stand for 24 hours, clean the hair powder with a brush, and then put the fur on the portrait on the air mold, the powder was blown clean with an air spray gun, and the hair was straightened with a fine-tooth comb.
Midori-shanghai-designer
Ordinary fur cleaning (sheep skin).
Washing solvent: 95% alcohol Common dose: Alcohol 200-250ml
Washing powder: Talc powder Common dosage: Talc 500-1000g
Washing method: Put the fur on the figure air mold, spray the alcohol solvent evenly onto the blanket with an air spray gun, repeatedly rub the hair quilt with a sponge duster, supplement with a gentle rubbing, sweep the hair with a brush Powder, and then use air spray gun to clean the powder, with a sparse comb to the hair to be straight forward to clear the finishing.
Midori-shanghai-designer
White plush yellowing treatment.
Washing solution: hydrogen peroxide, water ratio 1:10
Washing method: Put the fur on the figure air mold, spray the solution evenly onto the blanket with an air spray gun, fully wet for 5 minutes, gently brush with a short-haired brushing solution from top to bottom, and finally use a water spray gun to coat the hair. Rinse thoroughly, place in a cool, dry place, and clean the hair in a straight line.
Midori-shanghai-designer
These are the methods of care and washing for the kinds of furs we wear on a daily basis.
Midori-shanghai-designer
If you don’t have any questions about this, let’s move on to the next topic, which may be of interest to you.
Midori-shanghai-designer
The application of fur in society.
Midori-shanghai-designer
Since the application of dermis involves the killing of animals, how do you think about this problem? (30 min)
Midori-shanghai-designer
Some people indiscriminately kill wild animals in the drive of their interests, leaving some rare wild animals on the verge of extinction，anyone agree that？
Midori-shanghai-designer
With the increase of human morality and civilization, the concept of environmental protection has received more and more attention. Fur and environmental protection have become the subject of constant controversy. What do you think?
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
sustainable sourcing
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
can real fur sourcing be ethical and sustainable?
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
Well I guess everybody agree
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
That’s what is going on
Midori-shanghai-designer
That’s what’s at issue.
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
Fur is so unnecessary
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
I don’t think so
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
As long as it means killing a living creature
Midori-shanghai-designer
also，fur used a lot of chemicals in the production process for degreasing and cleaning, such as formaldehyde. Damage to the surrounding water quality and the environment. This is contrary to the current concept of low-carbon environmental protection.
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
fur has been part of humanity society since early homo sapiens.
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
And there have been so many leaked videos about the conditions of the animals.
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
so no real fur will be change of our mindset
Midori-shanghai-designer
Besides, if you don’t have real fur, will you be wearing fur imitation clothes?
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
Yes, but back then the fur was used for survival reasons
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
keep warmth
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
Yes
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
fur is excellent on this
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
Of course
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
like duck or Goose down
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
also wool is a superior fiber
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
But aren’t other materials now very good in keeping us warm as well?
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
not as good
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
down is breathable
Midori-shanghai-designer
But will the production of imitation fur also cause pollution to the environment?
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
Yes it will
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
Now there is a question what is better
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
In terms of protecting the environment
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
all those polyester based padding doesnt breath so well and not easy to have same level of warmth but technology is improving
Midori-shanghai-designer
Some people have suggested that “for a piece of clothing, whether or not animals should be given a cruel price,” so-called no-buy, no harm, how consumers should take action.
Heather-Wuhan-AGL
It depends much on consumers’ attitude
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
we should focus on low impact on the environment and longevity of the product
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
So , whatever we do we impact the environment as little as possible for sustainable living for mankind @Alena~Shanghai~AGL reused
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
Can fur be recycled?
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
for sure
Midori-shanghai-designer
So,inrecentyears,manybrandshavecalledforaboycottoffur.Doesthiswork So, in recent years, many brands have called for a boycott of fur. Does this work?
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
@Midori-shanghai-designer when u boycott . somebody somewhere may Lose their job
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
Doesn’t it get bad with age
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
?
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
@Alena~Shanghai~AGL depends on your care
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
just think low impact
Midori-shanghai-designer
yep～～
Midori-shanghai-designer
so,how to get fur into sustainable fashion (30min)
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
everyone do their part… step by step approach
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
reuse old fur
Heather-Wuhan-AGL
yes，especially farm consumers，every one of us
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
use fur that related to food industry?
Heather-Wuhan-AGL
How？
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
You use the fur of the animals that is used for food industry…
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
@Heather-Wuhan-AGL not sure i am not familiar
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
?
Midori-shanghai-designer
Finding new ways to produce textiles
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
Also an option
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
@Alena~Shanghai~AGL yea that can have lower impact
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
True
Midori-shanghai-designer
Different ways of producing and processing materials means that they have different effects on the environment. As we all know, there are risks in the production of petroleum compounds, such as the pollution from the chemical refining process to the toxic chemicals emitted during the production of chemical fiber fabrics. However, there are deficiencies in each fabric, including organic fabrics. For example, traditional methods of cotton cultivation use large amounts of water, synthetic fertilizers, and pesticides, which also destroy the habitat of wild animals. In the case of agricultural farming, waste treatment also needs to be considered. Another consideration is the environmental impact of raw materials and garments. Clothing entirely produced and sold locally has less impact on the environment than garments produced and sold in multiple locations, such as the production of chemical fiber garments, oil drilling in the Gulf of Mexico, processing into fabrics in China, sewing in Vietnam, and then selling in Europe.
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
But there wouldn’t be sufficient supply
Heather-Wuhan-AGL
yeah
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
price would go up and more ppl would enter
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
And there we go again
Midori-shanghai-designer
sorry，this is too long
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
There should be only a law enforcement
Heather-Wuhan-AGL
and may lead to more animal getting killed
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
@Alena~Shanghai~AGL u know what this leads to hahah
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
Haha
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
Sure
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
Viciouscircl
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
Circle
Midori-shanghai-designer
Some people think that farmed fur is also environmentally friendly
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
sustainable living for mankind and sustainable economic growth
Midori-shanghai-designer
Materials can be divided into two categories: organic materials (plants and animals) and inorganic materials (coal, petroleum, ore, etc.).
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
I just wish there weren’t those Russian fur farms where the skin the animals alive and leave them to die
Midori-shanghai-designer
Organic materials are sustainable because they can be regenerated; plants and animals can continue to grow and can be continuously replenished. Common in clothing are cotton, linen, bamboo, wool, natural fur, down and leather. Inorganic materials are not sustainable because they cannot be regenerated; once they are consumed, they really disappear, unless more inorganic materials can be found. Important inorganic materials used in chemical fiber clothing are synthesized from petroleum such as acrylic and polyester.
Heather-Wuhan-AGL
@Alena~Shanghai~AGL yeah，that’s the most cruel part
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
@Midori-shanghai-designer goes back to sustainable farming
Midori-shanghai-designer
yep
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
controlled forest
Midori-shanghai-designer
Natural fur farming, like other animal husbandry, is inherently sustainable because farmers can decide on the number of animals to feed based on market conditions
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
@Midori-shanghai-designer u always need to predict
Midori-shanghai-designer
We can indirectly believe that aquaculture is actually conducive to wild hunting because of the high demand for farmed animals while reducing the pressure of wild hunting.
Midori-shanghai-designer
Fur farming also minimizes the impact on the environment through other means, such as the use of human food residues for animal feeding; the use of manure as agricultural organic fertilizers; and the conversion of carcasses into biofuels.
Midori-shanghai-designer
and what do you think about it？
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
@Midori-shanghai-designer is good start
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
Hmmm I guess
Midori-shanghai-designer
Natural fur is one of the most sustainable materials on the planet. It comes from the sustainable production of natural materials, uses rather gentle production processes, and ultimately makes durable and recyclable garments that provide decades of warmth. After being comfortable, it will eventually be fully biodegraded.
Midori-shanghai-designer
Of course, I know what you are thinking: The truth about natural fur (Truth About Fur website) promotes natural fur, so it is not surprising that we praise it.
Heather-Wuhan-AGL
what about the use of artificial fur？
Midori-shanghai-designer
Although artificial leather is considered to be friendly to animals, its production process and non-recyclable and non-degradable properties are also indirectly harmful to the environment .@Heather-Wuhan-AGL
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
Is there any other solution then getting sustainable!
Christine-Shanghai-Group founder
true. no perfect leather
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
@Midori-shanghai-designer they are making bio based leather
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
like modern meadows
Christine-Shanghai-Group founder
to get fur farm animals is also a solution for ecology system.
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
@Alena~Shanghai~AGL we are getting more and more sustainable which is a good direction
Midori-shanghai-designer
These chemical fiber garments will be sent to landfills when they are abandoned. The resulting tiny plastic particles will then damage our oceans.
Christine-Shanghai-Group founder
yes.
Midori-shanghai-designer
@Vincent-shanghai-Incubator Is this biodegradable?
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
@Midori-shanghai-designer well i dont see this a long term solution
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
people r working towards solving problems by having less landfills
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
@Midori-shanghai-designer not sure how long will take for fully biodegradable
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
compose is not a good solution cause not long lasting
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
i have a PLA based poly bag is my office and is biodegradable but…getting thinner and thinner every time I show people.
Heather-Wuhan-AGL
that’s interesting
Midori-shanghai-designer
But if the clothing material we produce has a high durability of 3-5 years, it may reduce the degradation pressure.
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
I see
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
PLA is from corn starch and if everything turns into PLA then will compete with our food source…means more farmland?
Midori-shanghai-designer
@Vincent-shanghai-Incubator interesting
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
@Midori-shanghai-designer so how do brands have a sustainable business model?
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
sustainability is not just environmental impact and working condition
Midori-shanghai-designer
Does the brand do the recycling of this part of the sustainable business model like h&m
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
@Midori-shanghai-designer they certainly can
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
i am going send my scrap polyester fabrics to recyclers to make recycled polyester yarns
Midori-shanghai-designer
But not many brands have the same ability to handle these used clothes as they do with H & M.
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
@Midori-shanghai-designer is not that hard
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
if any local brands want to do it i can help
Midori-shanghai-designer
@Vincent-shanghai-Incubator -shanghai-Incubator expect that
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
@Midori-shanghai-designer h&m outsource this to another company I collect
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
as long as u have the mindset to take the initiate step
Midori-shanghai-designer
I learned. Your offer was good .@Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
key is take 1st step and collaborate
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
Wow
Alena~Shanghai~AGL
That’s interesting @Vincent-shanghai-Incubator
Midori-shanghai-designer
about the topic How to get fur into sustainable fashion my conclusion is
- Natural furs from wild hunting and farming are sustainable
- Finding new ways to produce textiles
thanks to join in the discussion！
Christine Tsui 