What is color planning in design development?

 

#Christine Tsui Fashion Community Group Discussion#

What is color planning in design development?

 

Date:07/06/2018

Time: 8pm to 10pm

Host by Sophia-Hangzhou-Fashion Design Consultant

Sophia was major in apparel engineering and now serves a consulting firm that focuses on fashion industry. She is working on promoting the new retailing mode combined with aesthetics.

 

 The outline of discussion:

 

  1. What is design style?
  2. What problems do apparel companies encounter in design development?

3.The importance of color planning

  1. Brands with good color-planning
  2. Conclusion

 

 

FOREWORD

The designs of style and color are based on a rigorous theoretical system. It is a fluke to succeed in designing a best-selling dress by designers’ own feelings while most of them are failed, especially when seasons, trends, and consumer preference are changing. Thus, it is important for designers to understand what is design style and how to manage color in design development.

 

PART ONE What is design style?

 

Words to describe style:

Urban, elegant, natural, romantic, refreshing, personality, classical, modern, elegant, gorgeous, dramatic, lovely.

 

Words that can not accurately describe style:

Simple, fashionable, retro, British, classic.

 

PART TWO What problems do apparel companies encounter in design development? 

 

  1. A bad color planning may result in many changes even risks in the process of product development.
  2. How to utilize trendy elements to develop innovative designs in keeping with brand image?
  3. How can buying team choose products in keeping with brand style?

 

PART THREE The importance of color planning

The style of design is determined by color, shape, and quality of fabric. Color is the most important element in design development.  A well-planned color design can solve more than 50% of the problems in design development. Only considering the style and quality will enable design development more difficult.

 

PART FOUR Brands with good color planning 

Discussion shown as below

 

Wiiliam-Jeweler-Student
I think the colors of MOSCHINO are always uniform. Italian brands have put a lot of effort on keeping color adapted to design style. They use cartoon pattern prints and warm color blocks to create exaggerated and vivid style and brand image. D & G and Versace are two examples.

 

Sophia-hangzhou- Fashion Design Consultant

I would say Max Mara and domestic brands such as ICICLE and Mo & Co. These brands do well in color planning because their colors are consistent with brand positions and can meet the demands of target consumers.

 

Yuan Liu -Shanghai-Designer

I think Gucci also does a good job. Its color is always strong but not abrupt. Also, the unique color style enables Gucci easily recognized.

 

PART FIVE CONCLUSION

Commercial design development should be based on the requirements of consumers. Designers should be both sensual and rational.

Every trendy element could be utilized to develop innovative design so long as it can be in keeping with brand image.

A well-planned color design can solve more than 50% of the problems in design development. Only considering the style and quality will enable design development more difficult.

Internationalization of Local high-end fashion brand

 

#Christine Tsui Fashion Community Group Discussion#

Internationalization of

Local high-end fashion brand

 

Date:16/06/2018

Time: 8pm to 10pm

Host by Maggie-Manchester-student

1 Bachelor degree of Economy in China

2 Studying international fashion retailing in University of Manchester for master degree.

 

 The outline of discussion:

 

1. How many Chinese high-end fashion brands do you know?

1.1 What’s the features of them?

2. The development status and potential problems in Internationalization for Chinese high-end fashion brands?

3. Strategy

3.1 How to help local high-end fashion brand become worldwide accepted?

3.2 Are there any successful examples of Chinese high-end fashion brands?

3. Conclusion

 

 

FOREWORD

China is a large luxury products consumption country, but for the whole fashion industry, market of China is still a young market. We often focus on luxury brand from Italy, France even UK, but Chinese consumers tend to focus less on Chinese high-end fashion brand. To be honest, my dream is to help more local Chinese fashion brands become famous worldwide. So the topic appears in my mind. The topic is about internationalization of Chinese high-end fashion brand.

 

PART ONE: How many Chinese high-end fashion brands do you know?

 

discussion:

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

uma wang.

 

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

Jorya.

 

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

Guo pei.

 

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

rose studio.

 

Maggie-Manchester-student

huishan Zhang.

 

  • What’s the features of them?

high price, craftsmanship, good material quality, prestige.

 

Designers of some Chinese high-end brand has overseas background, they have advantage of combining west features to eastern culture.

 

Discussion:

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

It is their prestige.

 

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

Price is high.

 

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

high price

 

Maggie-Manchester-student

Yes, price needs to be considered in the definition.

 

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

quality is not as good as luxury brands are so commercial now.

 

Maggie-Manchester-student

Craftsmanship.

 

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

But is it becoming less?

 

Maggie-Manchester-student

Craftsmanship is still essential and it is a representative of quality and heritage of culture.

 

Christy-Canada-marketing

Since high-end brand stresses prestige, its target consumers should be elite rather than middle class.

 

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

aim for middle class also.

 

Christy-Canada-marketing

Hermes is a good example for delivering craftsmanship notion.

 

Maggie-Manchester-student

Elite is the target customer, but middle class has contributed a lot of consumption.

 

Maggie-Manchester-student

yes, Hermes can stand for craftsmanship with high level of price.

 

Christy-Canada-marketing

I don’t think middle class is a right group here in China. They still focus more on how trendy a brand is while ignoring the crafts behind that.

 

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

what ab the scarcity?

 

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

material quality. Craftsmanship.

 

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

There really no scarcity left unless Kelly bag.

 

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

I think many of the high-end brands are independent designer brands?

 

Maggie-Manchester-student

Most of them are designer brands at the beginning.

 

 

PART TWO: The development status and potential problems in Internationalization for Chinese high-end fashion brands?

 

Design and quality of products still have problems for Chinese brand.

Chinese fashion market is very young. The maturity and experience of the entire industry still have a gap when compared with overseas.

 

Discussion:

Christy-Canada-marketing

I think the issue is that how to create a Chinese brand that can be understood and accepted by western society’s.

 

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

It is about time and product.

 

Maggie-Manchester-student

Yes, it is good point. There still exist culture differences.

 

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

those Japanese ones started earlier than us.

 

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

our product also especially fitting.

 

Christy-Canada-marketing

Too many counterfeits make people question the ability of creation in China.

 

Maggie-Manchester-student

Chinese fashion market is very young. The maturity and experience of the entire industry still have a gap when compared with overseas. But because it’s very young, it has a lot of possibilities.

 

Maggie-Manchester-student

Now we can ask ourselves a question, if you pay for a leather bag with a high level of price, will you choose a Chinese brand or an Italian brand?

 

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

I think it really depends on how it looks.

 

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

our leather aint that good.

 

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

and quality.

 

Maggie-Manchester-student

I think the answer is in your mind.

 

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

if both brands are not well known and both are made in Italy then it goes to design.

 

Maggie-Manchester-student

We usually from the perspective of retailers, but we are also consumers. I really love my country, but at that moment I hesitated to make a decision.

 

Christy-Canada-marketing

True~ we are not willing to spend time training people and use the real good stuff.

 

Maggie-Manchester-student

I recommended Chinese brands to my family and friends, but when I met the question, I will consider brand, quality even the design whether suitable for me.

 

Christy-Canada-marketing

And consistence.

 

Mel-christchurch-student

I can’t see what’s the problem…I’d say there are some good Italian stuff for sure just…this country is basically famous for luxury and of course prosciutto.

 

Christy-Canada-marketing

They got history.

 

Julie~Shanghai~High-end retail

I have visited a showroom of Chinese designers this week, what has impressed me is that for bags, even the price and design is similar, the material and craftsmanship is of lower quality compared to made in Italy brands.

 

Mel-christchurch-student

Just like when you wanna but a really good watch you’ll think Belgium firstly pretty much all the time.

 

Julie~Shanghai~High-end retail 14:05

Jewelry pass but when talking about bags… sad to say but china made is out of my choice for accessible luxury level brands.

 

Mel-christchurch-student

This question is like if you wanna eat sushi what restaurant you wanna go Chinese chef one or Japanese chef one?

 

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

our leather here just not as good.

 

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

good ones are from like Spain.

 

Christy-Canada-marketing

So for developing Chinese brand, we should target more on younger generation since they are more open minded, more easily to change their preference.

 

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

Maybe that’s really related to our mindset towards a certain category.

 

Maggie-Manchester-student

design and quality of products still have problems for Chinese brand.

 

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

It’s a cultural and geographical issue?

 

Julie~Shanghai~High-end retail

yeah, chat with some made in Italy foreign brands, the level is like this, Italy made is better than Spanish made for European consumers.

 

Ari-Melbourne-Master of fashion

Yeah,I think cultural is a big problem .

 

Maggie-Manchester-student

Regardless of the origin of a brand, there must be quality and design to support the brand, so that it can create a good word-of-mouth.

 

Julie~Shanghai~High-end retail

agree, quality and design are essential elements.

 

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

yeah that’s what we lack of,a typical well-known element/design.

 

PART THREE: Strategy

 

3.1How to help local high-end fashion brand become worldwide accepted?

A brand should have its own story

Commercialize your product

To be a world-class company

World-class design, sourcing and branding

Promotion strategy: celebrity endorsement, brand cooperation, hungry strategy

Gain more exposure on media

 

Discussion:

How to help local high-end fashion brand become worldwide accepted?

 

Ari~Melbourne-Master of fashion

First as a brand should has it own story.

 

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

to be a worldclass company.

 

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

worldclass design, sourcing and branding.

 

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

gain more exposure on media.

 

Maggie-Manchester-student

culture background supported.

 

Maggie-Manchester-student

Brand and marketing communications are quite essential.

 

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

may not necessary has to be strong cultural supported.

 

Maggie-Manchester-student

culture will be a factor to influence a brand.

 

Maggie-Manchester-student

just like a background behind a brand.

 

Julie~Shanghai~High-end retail

I think sometimes culture could be negative for a brand to be accepted worldwide.

 

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

the background not necessary has to have strong cultural influence.

 

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

So meaning a luxury brand does not have to have strong national or ethnic culture.

 

Christy-Canada-marketing

But for Chinese brand to expand overseas, this is our selling point

 

Julie~Shanghai~High-end retail

not everyone like Chinese culture element. Just the brand origin is enough. Too much culture telling could be helpful or negative, could be risky.

 

Maggie-Manchester-student

We do not deny that culture is two-sided, but how can we rationally use culture for Chinese brands?

 

Julie~Shanghai~High-end retail

A successful example i can think of is La maison kitsune, French-Japanese crossed. Japanese culture story of fox helps this brand.

 

Christy-Canada-marketing

Maybe the cultural things could be a start point and then we could give more notions that are accepted worldwide

 

Julie~Shanghai~High-end retail

but yes, culture telling is not necessary.

 

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

in order to be a global brand u actually have to commercialize your product to fit the taste of everyone.

 

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

and that can be dangerous.

 

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

cause u risk losing your identity.

 

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

like michael kors is an example.

 

Hannah-Beijing-BD

coach also?

 

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

coach is a bit different, coach is less identity. Ever since the day they start their big plans

which is when Sara lee gave up.

 

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

michael kors commercialized rather than upgraded.

 

Maggie-Manchester-student

How to help local high-end fashion brand become worldwide accepted? what do you think of celebrity endorsement and brand cooperation?

 

Vincent-shanghai-Incubator

Well-known ones like charlize theorem.

 

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

Their promotion could be very helpful

 

Maggie-Manchester-student

what about brand cooperation, cross-border cooperation is also popular.

 

Christy-Canada-marketing

Influencer is so important now. Think about Kanye’s marketing strategy. As I know, he always invites celebrities or influencers to wear his clothes and shoes before selling them, and also he uses hunger strategy, which arouse people’s desire to get one.

 

Heather-Wuhan-AGL

Very frequent nowadays,such as recent Xuweizhou and Coach

 

 

3.2 Are there any successful examples?

A successful example is Angel Chen.

In foreign channels, brand focuses on quality and location of the stores. Angel Chen has already cooperated with channels like LuisaViaRoma in Italy, Selfridges in London.

While in China Angel Chen cooperates with Lane Crawford and IT

 

PART FOUR: Conclusion

 

Chinese high-end fashion brands with features of high price, craftsmanship, good material quality and prestige. Because fashion market of China is still a young market, there still exist potential problems in Internationalization for Chinese high-end fashion brands. For example, design and quality of products still have problems for Chinese brand. In order to help local high-end fashion brands become worldwide accepted, it is essential to build brand story, commercialize your product, to be a world-class company, to have world-class design, sourcing and branding. Also promotion strategy is needed with celebrity endorsement, brand cooperation, hungry strategy and gain more exposure on media

Views| Is the Victoria’s Secret show an erotic show? How to treat the comment by Hung Huang?

By Christine Tsui

Translated by Rachel

 

Recently Hung Huang said on her micro blog that “The Victoria’s Secret Show is just an erotic show, relying on objectifying women and fulfilling the show with stars to seemingly increase its value.”. What does this statement really reflect? I want to say something about my view.

Actually, I don’t agree with Hung’s comments at all. (Any justified disapproval is welcomed; but all the other views without arguments are nonsense!)

The comparison of the Victoria’s Secret Show to an erotic show entirely reveals the viewer’s own mentality. The metaphor is similar to the ideology in 1980s, that any naked women or sculptures are supposed to be porn. The elegant arts sometimes have little discrepancy with vulgar businesses in somebody’s view!

According to Hung’s logic, almost all the fashion shows would be eroticism, for most of the time the models expose their thighs and shoulders. So, what’s the point for those editors, journalists, buyers, stars, going over to the show only for the flesh? Why are there so many designers diligent in producing new styles all the year?

So, please don’t humiliate the fashion industry! Don’t reckon the fashion industry practitioners as shallow crowds. Under the veil of fashion, there are indeed extravagant guys, hypocrisy ones and womanizers. But they are minority in the fashion world. The majority, just like any other industries, would work hard to devote themselves to the job they love and earn the money they deserve!

Although the products of VS are in quite low quality, and the organization of the showcase this year is said to be a mess, but the production and professionalism of the show itself should not be in doubt. The professional level of the models (except for someone) is also the world-class. But Hung’s comment completely diminishes the professional devotions of the directors, models, musicians, dressers, stage designers and even audience. What backs the fantasy show is the decades of consistent efforts of these people!

The fashion industry is easily to be misunderstood. Outsiders always hold two extreme views of the industry. Some people admire at fashion for working with stars, wearing fancy clothes and participating in the noble parties or something like that, when the other disdain it, for they think fashion is only extravagance.

In fact, the industry is neither that enviable nor that shallow.

The fashion world is essentially a female world. In this industry, eighty to ninety percent are women. Meanwhile, female consumers are the major forces of fashion consumption market. In fashion history, the woman once indeed was the role of “the object consumed by men”, in other words, dressing up only to please the man, in a certain period. But how many women nowadays can not survive if they do not want to please the man?

Views∣ Has Chinese Fashion Brands Triggered the Course of Internationalization?

By Christine Tsui

Translated by Rachel Wang

Much news of Chinese fashion brands recently has been covered recently, drawing much attention of the masses.

Partially, the coverage mentions many Chinese brands have acquired foreign fashon brands. For instance, Ellassay purchased part of Vivienne Tam shares; Ideal Group and Ochirly (Trendy Group) brought several foreign fashion brands. Actually almost all the listed fashion companies have either acquired brands abroad or prepared to buy one in Europe.

The acquisitions are sparked under some certain social environment elements, especially, in my point of view, the exchange rates.

The purchases would be much cheap at present, for the pound and US dollar are both depreciating and the US and European retail markets are in the valley when the Chinese one is thriving, so the merger case increased a lot.

In my opinion, it is the moment for Chinese brands following the internationalization routine. Except for the exchange rate and market elements, Chinese brands have developed for over 30 years, standing on a solid foundation to expand international business. However, the external environment indeed supplies the Chinese companies the chance, but it is not a guarantee for a smooth movement. So I bet the peak for internationalization surging after the next decade instead of now. For now, it’s just a solid start.

Why?

For one thing, there are few truly well-known brands.

Although Chinese merchants have held the shares of Karl Lagerfeld and Vivienne Tam, the corporate controls are limited in the proportion to their part of shares. Chinese brands usually do not have good genes, so it still takes times for to grow up.

For another thing, Chinese brands risk the shortage in their talent pools.

With little experience of internalization, Chinese companies need a whole generation to store international management teams. After the mergers, as a first step, it’s unlikely for Chinese personnel to stay away from management, which is a necessary result out of human natures. Meanwhile, the acquired companies must had suffered from the previous management mechanisms, or at least had disappointed the investors, which makes the acquired firms eager for new managements.

So I know Chinese people are bound to engage in the business, soon or later, which is only a matter of time. Nevertheless, to employ foreigners requires costs, the same as to the foreigners who started joint ventures in China many years before.

Setting aside the potential market gaps between the east and west, the inevitable conflicts would lie in the discrepancies of languages, cultures, and even laws. It would be a long progress to overcome the various labor laws, power of labor unions and misunderstanding of the local customers.

Hence, I believe the next ten years is not the period for Chinese brands to compete on the international stages, but to learn.

But in the perspective of employment, what is the future for Chinese professional managers. As I always stress, the most ideal platforms for them are the local companies instead of the foreign ones.

Many returned students nowadays still wish a position in the foreign companies, which is a mistake, but a hard task. In a large number, the returnees are not competitive enough, and most foreign brands hold compressed budgets.

Many of the local enterprises actually are abundant enough to recruit, but they are always considered to be lagging in management under the shadows of family business. To be frankly, it is these companies that have the most promising futures. In the coming internalization, more and more staffs of them would be dispatched overseas to study, which would form a peak 10 years later.

So if you are a this-year’s-graduate, or a fresh employee, I hope you can seize the precious opportunity, no matter in the view of career or personal growth.

In a word, the reserve of talent is an essential element for the internationalization process of Chinese brands indeed.

Visit to Cirbaf, Hong Kong

My visit to Cirbaf, a sustainable fashion brand in Hong Kong. Cirbaf is the inverse of the word ‘fabric’. They focus on reusing fabrics left over by factories to make baby shoes and accessories. They use organic materials since baby shoes need to be healthy and soft.

2015-02-19 22.36.23

Baby shoes designed and manufactured by Cirbaf. Their products are made of organic materials and can reduce waste from factories. Besides, all products are made by a group of people with disabilities in sheltered workshops run by Po Leung Kuk or St James’ Settlement. They aim to provide employment opportunities for this group of people who are usually ignored by the mainstream. For people with disabilities, they can gain income and realize social values from their own labor input instead of relying on governmental subsidies. It is a tough process to train them to be equipped with manufacturing techniques. So manufacturing procedures cannot be too demanding. However, once they master the technique, each of them will complete each step with their whole heart. Nobody would complain or idle away the time. Many might think that it is hard for people with disabilities to work. There are actually many types of disabilities. As long as one is willing to work, most can qualify for employment.

2015-02-19 22.36.35 2015-02-19 22.36.31

Jockey Club is the organization in Hong Kong I heard most about. Usually they are really engaged with charity work. They sponsor several dormitories or halls at HKU. They are also one of the buyers of Cirbaf’s products. Cirbaf supplies with Jockey Club these wristbands made from unused fabrics to be corporate souvenirs.

2015-02-19 22.36.40

Slippers are Cirbaf’s flagship products. The design is quite nice too. Why not choose a pair of slipper that is beautiful as well as socially meaningful?

2015-02-19 22.36.45

Denim laptop bags made from unused denim fabrics.

2015-02-19 22.36.54

Baby mittens, aren’t they cute. The retail price is 90HKD. What do you think?

2015-01-30

With Cirbaf’s staff, Tiffany. Both social enterprise and sustainable fashion need more and more young people.

2015-02-19 22.37.07